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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Issues! ABS & TC to start
It looks like my 2.4 has a few different issues all at once!

First started with very rare occasions (months apart) the engine would stutter and if in low revs cut out but would restart easily.
Several weeks back driving down the M4 the engine cut out at 70mph (don’t panic!) freewheeled to the hard shoulder while trying to restart after several attempts she fired back up and no further issues.
After a nice weekend camping the same happened twice on the way home.

So I’ve changed the VCV again and made sure I had a genuine one.
Since the above although I believe coincidentally my coolant cap has discharged on occasions, one occasion it discharged about a litre and caused low revs, gave a CHT of 100c no fault light or code just needle in red, Pulled over cooled and refilled with a litre of water needle still in the red and refused to start. After a few minutes, the’needle dropped to normal and engine started carried on my journey with no further issues.

Again after another weekend, on the way back conscious of the overheating problem I focused on my UltraGauge readings which read 83 to 88°, but still, the engine, cut out needle in red definitely not overheating, while sat on the hard shoulder of the M4 the engine refused to fire, turned, but not firing and needle still in red. After 10 minutes and many attempts to start needle back to normal and started but with the ABS and TC illuminated.
Got to the motorway services a mile down the road let the car cool down and rest for 40 minutes but back the same needle in the red and refused to start ABS and TC lights still on, but after a few moments needle back to normal engine fired and UltraGauge showing 65° carried on our journey for an hour with zero issues apart from the ABS TC lights on and still on.
Changed the CHT just incase.

Because of the issues I’ve bought a Nanocom, but can’t find the problem with the ABS & TC
All fuses are ok, relays seem in good order.

These are the Nanocom results, also no Output options showing? Any ideas?



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 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1011335 15th Oct 2023 7:25pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Any ideas chaps? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1011605 17th Oct 2023 7:47pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
What fault codes are stored? That’s just live data readings I guess?
Post #1011626 17th Oct 2023 11:31pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Got this one



Click image to enlarge
 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1011635 18th Oct 2023 6:40am
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2102

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Looks like you possibly have two unconnected faults.

Sadly, when my ABS modulator failed, I recall that the Nanocom wasn’t much help in identifying the fault.

If it is a fault on the ABS system, there is a relatively inexpensive and relatively ‘easy’ to fix issue with the solenoid switch on the underside of the modulator (can’t remember the correct name).

Good luck👍
Post #1011636 18th Oct 2023 6:46am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
It’s odd they only came up after the start attempts?

I’ve disconnected the battery negative, checked all fusses and relays. This makes me think towards the ecu and possibly a power surge? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1011679 18th Oct 2023 3:13pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2000

United Kingdom 
What was the other diagnostic trouble code ?

When your engine cut out did you loose power to the dash, I.e did the instrument cluster loose power ?

Given this code relates to communications between the ABS and the Engine ECU it may well have triggered when your engine cut out. So it may not be an ABS issue at all, just a brief symptom of the engine cutting out.

To test you can clear the p1935 code, restart engine and see if it comes back up.
Post #1011697 18th Oct 2023 6:10pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Yeah I agree with Ian here, what’s the other code stored. The ABS does a self check on start up, it could be related to the loos of power to stop.

Pull the other code out and clear them and recheck.
Post #1011703 18th Oct 2023 7:54pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks guys,

The other fault code occurred while resetting fault codes
With the engine running, this caused the engine to cut out for a split second and brought a few different codes across the tested and not tested sections. With just the ignition on the only recurring code is P1935 which I’m led the believe is quite a common occurrence? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1011713 18th Oct 2023 8:36pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2000

United Kingdom 
As you found out, you should not clear DTC’s with engine running or you can cause all manner of issues.

So have you subsequently cleared the remaining code and then started engine again ?

Re the engine overheating plus loosing water due to over pressure . The two potential causes I can think of are EGR cooler leak or ,unfortunately, head gasket.
Post #1011721 18th Oct 2023 9:26pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I thought the same (previous posts)

So I bought a Dr Head gasket RELD testing kit which so far has proved negative with a warm engine and a hot engine after a run. I’ve also bypassed the EGR cooler and tested when idling which was still negative? Still at a loss trying to resolve it! I’ve changed the thermostat and flushed the system so going to take it for a good this weekend and see what happens 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #1011767 19th Oct 2023 10:14am
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Matt_H



Member Since: 19 Sep 2018
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 42

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Voltage is a funny thing in these vehicles. Only today I replaced the battery in my DISCO 4 as it was creating problems. the main reported errors were, Gearbox Fault, Glow Plug fault and Transmission Case fault, so lots of lights and lots of codes! Its just because there are some very narrow voltage range signals that are captured at engine start (and other moments) and if your battery is failing, the cranking activity pulls the voltage signals into error ranges. New battery, all gone.

If you're sat repeatedly cranking your vehicle over and over to get it to start, then you'll be degrading the charge in the battery beyond some of the normal ranges for some of the sensors, so all kinds of things may turn up as a side effect. (a quick "vehicle reset" will get you right again)
Post #1011788 19th Oct 2023 2:02pm
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