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Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

Rear tub repair panels - advice needed

Evening,

I've got a corroded rear tub on my defender, my plan is to replace the floor, rear body mounting, thresh & seal, rear light cappings, the rear floor support and the quarter panels themselves.

My question itself is what order to do this in? I understand I'll need the tub floor off, then the rear panels off either side to replace the rear body mount itself.

Is there any tips or tricks to do this? I'm a technician by trade so I'll happily admit bodywork is not my forte!

I've attached some photos of the panels I mean, and the state of mine.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

They're the panels I've currently bought (and some stainless rear tub support brackets that go on the corner)

Click image to enlarge

Thanks
Alex

13th Oct 2023 6:45pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1640

You’ll have to drill out the spotwelds on the old one from behind and then bond or rivet the new one on. I’d take the tub off and do it upside down it’ll be a right nightmare otherwise. That’s some bad corrosion on that year for a td5? Cattle Farmer or boats?

13th Oct 2023 9:16pm

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

Replied below

Last edited by Ap077 on 13th Oct 2023 9:28pm. Edited 1 time in total

13th Oct 2023 9:27pm

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

NickMc wrote:
You’ll have to drill out the spotwelds on the old one from behind and then bond or rivet the new one on. I’d take the tub off and do it upside down it’ll be a right nightmare otherwise. That’s some bad corrosion on that year for a td5? Cattle Farmer or boats?

Hi,

I'm trying to avoid taking the tub off if I can avoid it, however if I have to then I will.

Very bad corrosion yep! It's an 07 Puma. Cattle farmer in Yorkshire was its previous owner Big Cry

Thanks!

13th Oct 2023 9:28pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1640

The under floor supports are riveted on each side with dome headed steel rivets and the tub to crossmember bracket is the full length one that bolts to the top face. You access the bolts to remove it through the hole on the crossmember underside.

Personally I’d remove the tub it’ll take far longer and far more effort to fix it in place for the sake of a few bolts.

This might give you and idea of what it’s like underneath without the supports on. (Be careful if you remove them as I think they’re not all the same height)

Click image to enlarge

13th Oct 2023 9:51pm

Welshsurferdude

Member Since: 23 Feb 2012
Location: Newport
Posts: 2422

Best to remove tub then you can address everything that needs doing and rub down and paint chassis

having said that its probably easier to get a better used tub and spray to match? 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)

2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS

2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold)

2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)

13th Oct 2023 9:56pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3437

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

On a 90, (but I think also a 110 HT), the tub is also prone to corrode at the front corners, where the seat belt brackets are attached to. There are L shaped steel brackets that go from the chassis to the seat belt unit which seem to be installed bare steel by Land Rover. These start to rust in no time, and create a very bad galvanic reaction between the ali and the steel. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

14th Oct 2023 3:10am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17492

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Looking at the cross member I'd have thought that you would be removing the body to facilitate chassis repairs! The tub looks like the least of your problems.

14th Oct 2023 8:41am

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

NickMc wrote:
The under floor supports are riveted on each side with dome headed steel rivets and the tub to crossmember bracket is the full length one that bolts to the top face. You access the bolts to remove it through the hole on the crossmember underside.

Personally I’d remove the tub it’ll take far longer and far more effort to fix it in place for the sake of a few bolts.

This might give you and idea of what it’s like underneath without the supports on. (Be careful if you remove them as I think they’re not all the same height)

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Nice one thanks! I might have to bite the bullet and remove the tub just so I can turn it upside down and carry out the repairs! Thanks for the pointers

14th Oct 2023 10:20am

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

Welshsurferdude wrote:
Best to remove tub then you can address everything that needs doing and rub down and paint chassis

having said that its probably easier to get a better used tub and spray to match?

That might not be a bad option to be fair! I’ve seen used TD5/TDCI tubs for around £500 which isn’t awful really! I’ll look into it thank you!

14th Oct 2023 10:20am

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

blackwolf wrote:
Looking at the cross member I'd have thought that you would be removing the body to facilitate chassis repairs! The tub looks like the least of your problems.

Yep! The rear cross member isn’t in the best shape really, I’m going to remove the floor and then see if it’s repairable or whether it should just be replaced

14th Oct 2023 10:21am

Screbble

Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2108

2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

blackwolf wrote:
Looking at the cross member I'd have thought that you would be removing the body to facilitate chassis repairs! The tub looks like the least of your problems.

That is precisely what I was thinking.

Tub off to expose the hidden gems.
Best of luck 👍

14th Oct 2023 11:48am

Mo Murphy

Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2254

1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey

Get the tub off and be prepared for things to get a whole lot worse. What you can see is always just the tip of the iceberg. Probably best to start researching replacement chassis. Sorry to be a doomsayer but you need to be prepared for what you'll find. I hope you didn't pay too much for it !
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey

14th Oct 2023 12:16pm

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

Screbble wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
Looking at the cross member I'd have thought that you would be removing the body to facilitate chassis repairs! The tub looks like the least of your problems.

That is precisely what I was thinking.

Tub off to expose the hidden gems.
Best of luck 👍

Tub off it is! Cross member bolts off, tub sides off (they’re already off) seatbelt brackets off. What else? Thanks team! 👊

14th Oct 2023 5:54pm

Ap077

Member Since: 19 Sep 2021
Location: York
Posts: 24

Mo Murphy wrote:
Get the tub off and be prepared for things to get a whole lot worse. What you can see is always just the tip of the iceberg. Probably best to start researching replacement chassis. Sorry to be a doomsayer but you need to be prepared for what you'll find. I hope you didn't pay too much for it !
Mo

The chassis is actually okay! The cross member is the worst area to be fair, forward on its just surface rust. I’ve been over it with a fine toothcomb. I’m going to get the tub off and put a cross member on it

14th Oct 2023 5:56pm

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