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Van Diesel



Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 177

United Kingdom 1986 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Auto Pennine Grey
Hub seal gone?
Both rears like this now.



Click image to enlarge
Post #1007627 14th Sep 2023 7:28pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3421

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Hub seal is further in.
Looks like your drive member gasket has failed. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1007635 14th Sep 2023 7:57pm
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Van Diesel



Member Since: 12 Oct 2013
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 177

United Kingdom 1986 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Auto Pennine Grey
Ah ok, that sounds a bit of a simpler job?
Post #1007645 14th Sep 2023 8:44pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3421

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Indeed much simpler. You do not even need to remove a wheel. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1007672 15th Sep 2023 4:27am
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 802

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Hi

That looks like copper grease?

You haven't recently taken off your wheels and coated the studs and nuts with copper grease before putting your wheels back on have you?

Jim
Post #1007723 15th Sep 2023 2:40pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17441

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It wouldn't/couldn't be forming radial streaks between the studs if it was coming from the studs!
Post #1007727 15th Sep 2023 3:56pm
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 814

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
There is a lot of copper grease on the studs, flange and flange bolts so it could have migrated from there if the wheels have only been fitted recently.

If it were me I would check the flange bolts are tight then clean it all up then run it and see if it returns. Would be odd for both flange seals to fail simultaneously unless they have been worked on. It's a static paper gasket so nothing should be wearing, unless the bolts are loose!
Post #1007736 15th Sep 2023 4:36pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
From what I remember doing mine, smear grease on the paper gaskets before fitting them.
Post #1007867 16th Sep 2023 5:44pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
@Mossberg Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #1007869 16th Sep 2023 6:05pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
Just remember to be gentle with the flange bolts, they have thread sealant on them and go into a blind hole so on occasion can shear, so if you are removing them or loosening to re torque work them back and forward to ease them out.


Ps at this point I expect the spring washer / thread seal / nord lock washer debate to be rekindled Rolling with laughter
Post #1007870 16th Sep 2023 6:41pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
I cleaned the threads on mine with a thread chaser, sprayed inside them with brake cleaner then used compressed air to clean them out. I then used new bolts with the thread lock on.

The vehicle was new to me so I used new bolts as I didn't know just how good the existing ones were and didn't want to use old ones which could potentially brake or rust in.
Post #1007886 16th Sep 2023 9:14pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17441

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
There are also advantages in replacing the hex bolts with hex socket head capscrews.
Post #1007888 16th Sep 2023 10:01pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Just done that. The hex caps look tidy Thumbs Up
Post #1007910 17th Sep 2023 8:59am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
blackwolf wrote:
There are also advantages in replacing the hex bolts with hex socket head capscrews.


Can I ask the advantage of cap head bolts? I have heard of people using them to aid fitting alloys but are there other advantages

Also how do you go on with them regarding longevity. Most of the bolts I have encountered have been hex and I wondered how standard hex compared to the Allen socket when trying to remove them after years of being on the truck? I presume you go for BZP to help them last?
Post #1007912 17th Sep 2023 9:35am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17441

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
They're cheaper than the equivalent grade with a hex head and much more widely available, and the head is entirely within the "land" of the flange so less likely to damage the wheel. There's no reason why there should be any difference in longevity (why would there be?) and the torque strength of the socket head is at least as great as the hex. I think they look neater too.

You can use BZP, just as you can with hex, but there's no real need.
Post #1007914 17th Sep 2023 9:48am
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