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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
lifespan for td5 turbos?
How long do they usually last?

It is a VNT turbo I think (no expert though)
Is it easy to rebuild or specialist garages are needed? it is leaking a lot of oil and today I noticed some white smoke at idle and grey and heavy accelleration.

It also has a whining noice from the fuel pump. (not sure if white smoke is related to this)

thanks
Post #998320 2nd Jul 2023 8:44pm
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A.Rubio



Member Since: 04 Mar 2017
Location: Rocafort -Valencia
Posts: 30

Spain 
Be very careful with that oil leak since you could have autoignition and you will give up the Landy for lost. Greetings
Post #998325 2nd Jul 2023 9:25pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17391

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Re: lifespan for td5 turbos?
MalteseRover wrote:
How long do they usually last?
...


My Disco2 is going strong at 210k miles still with its original turbo. The only engine parts I have replaced have been alternators (due to oil ingress from the vacuum pump) and fuel pressure regulators, plus one warped exhaust manifold.
Post #998328 2nd Jul 2023 9:58pm
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
Re: lifespan for td5 turbos?
MalteseRover wrote:
How long do they usually last?

It is a VNT turbo I think (no expert though)
Is it easy to rebuild or specialist garages are needed? it is leaking a lot of oil and today I noticed some white smoke at idle and grey and heavy accelleration.

It also has a whining noice from the fuel pump. (not sure if white smoke is related to this)

thanks


Hello.

I had a look at the turbine, there is lateral movement and the intake turbine and it has a little sooth deposit on its blades. I dropped the exhaust pipe and when i rubbed my thumb on the inside I noticed that there is a deposit of sooth gummed with oil. (oil seals leaking I suppose). This can also explain the sudden drop in engine oil from full to half full.

Does any one know the part number or codes for a rebuild kit for such turbos?

PO had it remapped and added a VNT turbo. are the internals the same? (bearings and seals? )

thanks
Post #998340 3rd Jul 2023 7:48am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Re: lifespan for td5 turbos?
blackwolf wrote:
MalteseRover wrote:
How long do they usually last?
...


My Disco2 is going strong at 210k miles still with its original turbo. The only engine parts I have replaced have been alternators (due to oil ingress from the vacuum pump) and fuel pressure regulators, plus one warped exhaust manifold.


Yes same with Miffy. Her original turbo lasted in to the 220s. Only cleaned it up and replaced the CHRA during Covid as I was waiting for gearbox bits to arrive. There was a little play in the shaft is all. If you are fairly DIY competent it is easy enough to replace the CHRA at home.
Post #998344 3rd Jul 2023 8:34am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
By lateral play, do you mean radial play? If yes, then it is normal as long as neither the compressor nor the turbine can touch their respective housing. Axial play should not be present.
You can expect sooth on the turbine, but should be dry. Good to check that the oil drain from the turbo back to the crankcase is clear. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #998384 3rd Jul 2023 1:04pm
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
hello hoses are back on and using it. the turbine has lateral movement - it does not seem to hit or rub against the casing and i suppose oil pressure reduces this play. It has no back and forth play. I was checking the compression of the engine. when I undo the oil filler cap there is force pushing the cap up and I can feel it pressing against it when i put my hand palm over it. I suppost that it is normal for an engine to have some sort of pressure no heavy fumes coming out of it. i replaced the paper air filter cos it was there for a couple of years now.

If anyone konws of a good reputable supplier of turbo rebuild kits let me know.
regards
Post #998763 5th Jul 2023 6:41pm
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doruk1981



Member Since: 15 Aug 2022
Location: Aargau
Posts: 100

Switzerland 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I have two td5 turbos at home. one with 295k km and one with 150k km. Logic dictated that the 150k km should be less worn out and was sent to rebuild. Literally every component was worn out and had to be replaced... was financially quite ok though - a shop in Berlin performed the deed for 640 Euro within 2.5 weeks time. Td5 110 Station
Post #999292 9th Jul 2023 8:30am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1064

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
You can either buy a new turbo (~£512.69) or just the CHRA (Garrett GT2052S – 452239 TD5) (~£150)
Post #999298 9th Jul 2023 8:45am
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 

Click image to enlarge

Hello,

Today I noticed another considerable amount of oil on the exhaust side/pipe again. it seemed like it had stopped when i replaced the air filter. I am attaching a photo if possible.

Oil changed today, oil drain pipe (back to engine block is clear - removed and blew through it.
the filter that filters the crank case gasses into the intake hose before the turbo inlet. is clear.

lateral movement of vane in turbo housing is present, no back and forth movement on the shaft - I tried pulling with with a long nose pliers.

the engine is not producing a lot of blow by gasses, it is not blowing that much from the oil filler port so it cannot be creating pressure on the drain side of the turbo.

Can't see oil migrating from the pressure line to the exhaust pipe. the turbos exhaust side housing is dry underneath

I also have a Provent 200 in the system which is filtering a oil from the blow by gasses. It has been there for a good 4 or more years now. Its filter is a servicable item so I will try order on soon. I just rinsed the element in diesel and blew it dry with an airline.
Post #1006336 3rd Sep 2023 12:38pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Looks like the turbo is leaking.
Oil leaking into compressor side will go into intercooler, maybe pool in there, but possibly also ingested into the engine and probably burned off.
Oil leaking into turbine side will burn off if exhaust temperature is high enough. But given your short distances, that will not happen, and as in your case, oil is leaking between turbo and downpipe. The gasket, ESR3737 has probably failed too. Good to check the seating surfaces before replacing gasket. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1006401 4th Sep 2023 5:05am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Looks like the turbo is leaking.
Oil leaking into compressor side will go into intercooler, maybe pool in there, but possibly also ingested into the engine and probably burned off.
Oil leaking into turbine side will burn off if exhaust temperature is high enough. But given your short distances, that will not happen, and as in your case, oil is leaking between turbo and downpipe. The gasket, ESR3737 has probably failed too. Good to check the seating surfaces before replacing gasket.


As Dinnu says there are only a few places that quantity of oil can come from and the most likely is the turbo oil feed, which means either your oil pressure is high enough to push oil through the seals and bearings in the turbo or those seals have failed.

Pressure test is an easy and cheap test and worth doing. If it is not that then a replacement turbo or CHRA cartridge will be required.

Both are DIY-able Thumbs Up
Post #1006416 4th Sep 2023 7:39am
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
Engine oil used 10w40 full sythetic i think. Changed every 6 months or so. Used for towing 2200 litres of water daily most of the time and hardly needs flooring the gass pedal. Oil pressure is near 40 psi when cold and 20psi when warm. The cartridge body looks wet with oil as a result of wheeping.

Turbo is aftermarket will contact them if they have rebuild kits. But i guess standard kits would fit too after machining .

Is it safe to use in this state? Oil on compresor side was visible. Intercooler flush is on my mind lately. Provent is catching a lot of oil too.

Do i need egt guage? It is remaped to 180/190 but i rarely floor it or run it "fast and furious style "
Post #1006460 4th Sep 2023 11:46am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
If it is a standard TD5 turbo, so a Garret turbo then you can fit a replacement CHRA and you will not need any machining.

How have you connected up the Provent? I am concerned if it is collecting a lot of oil from the breather gasses. That makes me think your oil pressure is too high. It has been known that the oil pressure relief valve in the sump can jam in place and fail to release excess oil pressure. For me it was one grain of sand that jammed the valve open and the engine did not make much oil pressure.

I would find yourself an oil pressure test gauge and see what that tells you.
Post #1006461 4th Sep 2023 11:59am
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
hello.

I am going to run her till i empty as much fuel as possible to replace the fuel pump.
Will try plug in the nanocom to see if i have any faults just in case.
Will remove turbo while in bits to check if oil is from turbo or from engine side.
there is a gauge plugged in into the engine block. Readings have been constant for years.
Provent does not drain into the sump, just connected a 90cm length of clear pipe with a tap at the end. and when it fills up I just drain it out.


Post #1006480 4th Sep 2023 5:06pm
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