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TheShrink



Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 
Range Rover
If you were in the market for a Range Rover, spending under £30k, is there any particular model people would recommend, or avoid?
Post #1000504 17th Jul 2023 11:31am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I'd go for nice original 2-door (or, failing that, an early 4-door) if you can find one at the price.
Post #1000511 17th Jul 2023 11:57am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1628

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Avoid? Sport, evoque and P38 Mr. Green

I’d buy the older L322 shape TDV8 and keep the spare change to run and fix it.
Post #1000537 17th Jul 2023 2:27pm
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 377

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
I ran a late L322 for a couple of years.

Lovely thing, but it did have the capacity to generate some serious bills...

It was the 5 litre supercharged petrol model, and a very nice condition, well maintained, low mileage example (40k miles IIRC). And it still took over 5k of maintenance in just over 2 years...

I do miss it.

I'd imagine an L405 are slightly better. I'd still be tempted with one.
Post #1000542 17th Jul 2023 2:40pm
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 752

United Kingdom 
£5k in maintenance is a bit vague and not really indicative of expected costs unless you can caveat it with what cost £5000.

For instance, if you only used a main dealer and paid £200-300/hr labour rates, you could whip through £5k quite quickly, even more so if paying dealer prices for parts.

Or maybe it was an engine rebuild?

Not knocking you, you might have been very savvy. But it is extremely easy to overpay for stuff and then claim running 'x vehicle is expensive. When there may have been other ways to get the job done.
Post #1000549 17th Jul 2023 3:20pm
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
I've got an L322 TDV8

As a machine its increible, pulls well, comfortable, and nothing feels like a Range Rover. I bought ours for towing and as a stop gap between Defenders. As a means of generating headaches its also increible.

I DIY 99% of my car maintenance, unless you are handy on the tools and have space you will become very familiar with large bills and your Range Rover Garage or independant.

They are a total and utter pain the arse to work on next to a Defender. The sheer size and weight of it means that realistically you need a lift or a vast open flat space with a very large jack.

Some jobs are nice and easy, like I changed the air tank in 20 mins with two spanners.

Any engine job on the TDV8's is a matter of contortion and removing lots and lots of wires, guards and trims.

I miss having a Defender, but I still also love the Range Rover Rolling with laughter
Post #1000564 17th Jul 2023 4:30pm
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 377

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Chicken Drumstick wrote:
£5k in maintenance is a bit vague and not really indicative of expected costs unless you can caveat it with what cost £5000.

For instance, if you only used a main dealer and paid £200-300/hr labour rates, you could whip through £5k quite quickly, even more so if paying dealer prices for parts.

Or maybe it was an engine rebuild?

Not knocking you, you might have been very savvy. But it is extremely easy to overpay for stuff and then claim running 'x vehicle is expensive. When there may have been other ways to get the job done.


No offense taken, but I'm not one to throw money around when I don't have to.

My cars get everything they need, and I'm picky about the standard of work, but I'm not one to pay overpriced main dealers.

It needed timing chains (This was around £2k with a good local independent, it's something mad like 8k at the dealers),
supercharger nose bearing and coupler (uprated aftermarket part fitted at less than £500, but if I'd gone main dealer, they replace the whole piece at 2k+),
Rear shocks,
DAB module (good used one was a few hundred, but new genuine part was approaching 2k I think), Battery,
Alternator,
Power steering pump,
Full set of 8 injectors (These were over £100 each)
Front Discs and pads
Tyres - 1k
HID headlight unit

I don't have my paperwork anymore, but even looking at the bigger bits I remember, I think my 5k estimate was a bit light!

I also threw a couple of gearbox faults, and the 2 specialists I visited both said 'prepare for a gearbox rebuild in the next 5-10k miles) - a 3-4k job IIRC including Torque converter.

Oh yeah, and then there was petrol. Appreciate the diesels are (a bit) better on fuel, but I was getting 15-18mpg, and on the whole drove it pretty gently.

It was 7 years old and 40 k miles when I got it. Immaculate, with 2 owners and impeccable history.

I was an absolutely awesome machine, and tbh I'd probably have another, but it's sensible to be aware of the potential costs.

Whoever bought mine new, paid pretty much bang on £100k. The running costs of a 100k car don't decrease as it gets older. Quite the opposite.
Post #1000604 17th Jul 2023 7:58pm
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MarkBrown



Member Since: 03 Oct 2022
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 475

Wales 1983 Defender 110 Other HT Auto Keswick Green
If it was my money I'd buy a nice classic, a four door, in Cairngorm Brown.

Then I'd get a fully rebuilt 4.6 V8 for it.

Then I'd look at it.

Then I'd drive around posing, pretending that I was a 90's prince, going to a shoot.
Post #1000649 18th Jul 2023 7:12am
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Huttopia



Member Since: 23 Feb 2016
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1972

United Kingdom 
Don’t be afraid of the P38. That budget would get you several, but a well sorted late model is a lovely place to be and you’d have plenty in reserve for maintenance!

You could buy an over priced L322 that in 5 minutes time needs a replacement subframe….and the rust comes back through the rear arches, the tailgate bubbles and the turbos need replacement…..but Clarkson and ‘peak Range Rover’ 🤷‍♂️
Post #1000652 18th Jul 2023 7:25am
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Moo



Member Since: 01 Oct 2021
Location: UK
Posts: 1399

Ukraine 
Just to mix it up, I'd buy a Euro 6 D4. As comfy as a RR but hugely practical.

It depends what you want it for.

If not, I'd get a L405. Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy.
Post #1000659 18th Jul 2023 8:34am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1845

 
Huttopia wrote:
Don’t be afraid of the P38. That budget would get you several, but a well sorted late model is a lovely place to be and you’d have plenty in reserve for maintenance!


I thought the same. I bought mine (from here) about 3, maybe four years ago now. A low mileage 2000 model year 4.0 V8. There were some chunky items to deal with initially like refurbing the front axle ends; refurbing the rear axle; new airbags and shocks, and a coolant leak from the valley gasket, and I've also done other non-essential work, but long story short it starts each turn of the key and I'm (whisper it) beginning to appreciate its reliability.

I did change the old velour/fabric seats for black leather, and as you say it's a lovely place to be.

Recently I've been fully-focussed on other stuff and it was my 'daily' from about Christmas through to the end of June. Doing work trips, high and low box stuff, and just behaved impeccably. Not just my word for it either - because the DVLA no longer send paper reminders I'd let the MOT lapse - by about 3 months Shocked When I realised, I checked the lights, filled the washer bottle and stuck it in. Sailed through, no advisories.

It's really beginning to grow on me.

(Edit. In the context of this thread I should say that it cost me just £1000. I've done absolutely all of the work myself which is pretty manageable on a P38 if I can do it. I've probably spent about another £3k in parts and stuff though as I've said some of that could definitely be considered optional). Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #1000666 18th Jul 2023 9:31am
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 803

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
My everyday drive is a 2005 Vogue TD6.

Easy enough to maintain yourself. Cheap to buy and all parts readily available on EBay. The M57 BMW engine is bullet proof but the gearbox requires regular oil changes to stop it eating itself.

I’ve had her for 5 years, covered 30,000 miles and in that time have replaced track rod ends, upper and lower from suspension arms and changed the tyres. Superbly comfortable, safe, 28 mpg average and just a nice place to be on a long journey.


Click image to enlarge


Jim
Post #1000684 18th Jul 2023 11:42am
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martinf



Member Since: 30 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 
I have had 5 range rovers, all bought new over the last 25 years. The best was the most recent, an L405 which I bought in 2016. It had the 3 litre diesel which was fine until it had a software update which resulted in the need for oil changes due to oil dilution every 5 or 6 thousand miles. The electric tailgate became a bit unreliable because it had a lot of use with our dogs.

Otherwise it was a lovely car and I got £30k when I sold it in 2021 so an L405 should be available within budget. Do get one with a full service history and I always had the LR extended warranty once the initial warranty expired as repairs can be very expensive.

Good luck with you search.
Post #1000750 18th Jul 2023 5:11pm
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