 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Clutch slipping in 4th gear |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3422   
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Yes, only adjustment is to the hydraulic system. When adjusting the master cylinder push rod, ensure that there is some free play between the rod and the piston inside the MC, otherwise the non return valve will not be operative and you may have residual pressure on the thrust bearing.
Is it a 300tdi? A common problem on Td5s is fuel leakage from the pressure regulator and can cause the clutch to slip. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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14th Jul 2023 10:03am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5729 
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What he said about Td5 s. I’ve had it myself.
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14th Jul 2023 10:05am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486 
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Any oil leaks on a TD5 cause clutch slip from valve cover, rear lifting hook fixings or rear crank seal.
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14th Jul 2023 11:00am |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 803  
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Yes! It is a TD5.
Hmmmm…. The clutch pedal doesn’t seem to be that high to me which is why I was surprised that I felt it slip a few times. What do I need to look at chaps? Jim |
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14th Jul 2023 11:05am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Have you had the ECU remapped recently?
The first thing I would do is flush the hydraulics and re-set the pedal height. It may help. Also, between the slave cylinder the bell housing do you have a spacer? Some TD5s did and some didn't. Mine had one from the factory. If your clutch is not engaging properly then adding the spacer would help. Also, it is worth checking the length of your clutch push rod. It should be 99mm long. I had to replace Miffs a couple of years ago as it had worn incredibly badly at the clutch fork end. |
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14th Jul 2023 11:45am |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 803
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Hmmmmm…. Just been out and had a look underneath. Found that the wading plug (I was always told that they should be removed apart from deep wading?) was in the clutch housing. Removed the plug, stuck my little finger in the hole, waved it around and when I pulled it out found that it had an oily residue on it.
So I guess that I need to check the fuel pressure regulator… Regarding the clutch, if I mix up some degreaser in a pump up garden sprayer and spray it up where the wading plug goes will this degrease the clutch or will it need to be changed? I only bought the Landy a few days ago (2003 Defender 90 TD5 XS) and despite a decent test drive the clutch felt fine. Jim |
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14th Jul 2023 11:51am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5729
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On a Td5 the wading plug stays in all the time, and there is a little square slot behind it that should be kept clear. Shoving a cable tie up it is good for this.
To a degree most bell houses will have a bit of oil in them, but what does it smell like? If diesel then this is coming from the fuel pressure regulator and dripping onto the top of the clutch, reducing its ability to grip. The fuel pressure regulator is on the drivers side of the cylinder back by the intake manifold. Easy enough to swap out. When mine was effected I shoved loads of brake cleaner up the wading plug, and through crank sensor hole and that fixed it. |
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14th Jul 2023 12:52pm |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 803
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Degreased and cleaned the whole engine compartment and as much underneath as I could. Found a slight weep on the fuel regulator so changed the gasket.
I then sprayed 4L of heavy duty degreaser up into the wading plug hole on the bell housing using a pump up garden sprayer. Left it for 30 minutes and then hosed it out with water for 15 minutes. Engine compartment gearbox and bell housing now look like new and, most importantly, no more slippage 👍 Jim |
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15th Jul 2023 8:33pm |
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