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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
first issue - intermittently wont rev past 2.5k
Hi all,

Today my car wouldn't respond to the throttle and cut out, luckily i was able to pull off the road into a carpark. The car started fine but wouldn't rev past 2.5k, then it seemed to sort itself out and i got it home.

Now sometimes i can rev it while sitting in neutral and it just wont go past 2.5k then it'll suddenly clear.
I have a GAP IID tool and there are no faults recorded at all. I ran the live values but without knowing what the values should look like I'm none the wiser

I've read about the VCV causing issues and believe it doesn't throw a fault code, could it be that?

Thanks
Mike


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Post #987554 1st Apr 2023 2:31pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
What you are experiencing seems to be the classic VCV issue with a 2.4 puma, especially the fact you are not getting any DTC’s.

You will see may topics on here re the VCV, especially that no DTC’s are shown when it’s faulty, a range of symptoms including the ones you highlighted, the fact that a tiny amount of water or dirt can cause it to fail, that you need to get a legitimate denso replacement (need trusted supplier as fakes out there) and need to make sure you keep everything VERY clean during removal and replacement.
Plus it is not technically difficult to replace but extremely awkward.
Post #987582 1st Apr 2023 6:36pm
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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Brilliant, thanks Ianh. Ive ordered a Denso unit from LR Parts, hopefully they are a trusted supplier. I'm armed with a 1/4" ratchet/extension/swivel joint and a P handle 5mm ball head as backup, hopefully it'll go smoothly.

Cheers
Mike
Post #987737 3rd Apr 2023 10:18am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

United Kingdom 
I’m assuming yours is a 2.4 as the 2.2 does not seem to have the same VCV issues as it’s a different VCV.
Post #987838 3rd Apr 2023 10:20pm
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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
yeah 2.4
Post #987849 4th Apr 2023 5:59am
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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
so it was the VCV. Replaced it today and car is back running fine again. I did the the pump learn & pilot correction procedures after replacing it.

I found this guide on another site but ended up just replacing it without moving the loom or the vacuum pump line.



1. Make sure you have enough light! Bright torch, work lamp, whatever it takes - can't stress this enough.

2. I spent ages faffing about with angled joints and ratchet extensions - but the truth is, you can easily do it without if necessary. Essential is a simple right-angled 5mm hexagonal Allen key - use this to crack the bolts for undoing and the final tighten at the end. I also used a simple 1/4 inch ratchet with a T30 socket but this was solely for undoing the loose bolts - not for cracking or final tighten. See below.

3. The wiring loom that runs above the work area is simple to unhitch from the support points - use pliers to squeeze from behind each plastic attachment and it will pop out of its hole. Push the loom aside but be careful not to stress any individual wires to any other connectors - you can always undo other connectors too.

4. Definitely remove the plastic pipe from the brake vacuum pump - this is the black plastic tubing with a silver surround that's right in your way. It's VERY simple to unplug: slide the silver external wrap back and find where the black pipe goes into a 'wobbly' bit of metal that sits in a larger brass bolt at the back of the pump. DON'T undo this big bolt - there is a valve ball and a spring inside and a thousand curses will descend on you for all eternity if you take it out. Instead, the wobbly bit the plastic pipe goes in is a simple pressure collet - so with the fingers of your left hand, push that wobbly collet into the pump further so it rests against the end of the big nut, and with the fingers of your right hand, gently and simply pull the plastic pipe out of the collet. Easy when you know how. To reinsert later, simply push the pipe back into the collet one-handed, all the way and you'll see the collet move out towards your fingers, and that's it.

5. Leave the electrical connector plugged into the VCV.

6. From above, locate the shortest side of the Allen key into each VCV securing bolt by feel. Once in, move your right hand around and attack from the right, your left hand then down in from the top. Keep your right hand as a safety net in case the Allen key comes out or might fall. Crack each securing bolt - and then each one can be removed by finger. Obviously DON'T DROP THEM! Go slowly and use your right hand from the top, doing it blind. They will easily unscrew all the way.

7. Gently pull the old VCV out from it's mount - you might hear a slight hissing noise - I thought it was the Mrs watching me. It's just a bit of pressure release from inside the VCV - don't panic.

8. Now unplug the electrical connector. There's a slim tab at the back of it near where the wires go in - push that and slide the connector off. It will come off, needs a bit of force.

9. Use some clean tissue paper and carefully wipe the area AROUND the VCV mounting point - not the actual VCV mating area. Wipe away anything likely to be accidentally scraped when you put the new one on.

10. The old gasket will need some careful prising to get it off, but off it will come - persevere! Be wary of using a sharp screwdriver to try and prise it off - one mistake and you could easily score the mating surface. I did it with a fingernail. Snowflakes need not read further. Man up! (Okay, you're allowed to use a plastic thing of some sort. Maybe.)

11. Put the new O ring and gasket ready onto the new VCV. I used a tiny bit of petroleum jelly on the gasket around the bolt holes to keep it in position, and the tiniest dab on the O ring. Offer up the new VCV and get it into the mounting hole. Gently push it in as far as it will go. You'll notice that it doesn't seem to go as far in by hand as you though it might. No worries.

12. Reinsert the VCV mounting bolts by hand and finger tighten, alternating one to the other. If you have a ratchet set small enough and the right lengths, use that to tighten up, will be a lot quicker. Finish off with the 5mm right-angled Allen key. How much is enough tightening? You felt how tight it was when you uncracked them - so don't go mad. But most people know when enough is enough from the size of the bolt. If you're worried, always re-tighten after the engine has had a heat cycle put through it.

13. Electrical connector back on and brake vacuum pump pipe back in, clear the engine bay and start her up. Check for leaks. Go for a test drive. Check for leaks. It should be smooth at idle and no glitches with acceleration. Small glitches are allowed until you either have the pump learning, or it learns itself. (Neatly sidestepped that little hot potato!)

14. Tidy up engine bay - don't forget the wiring loom securing mounts.
Post #988298 8th Apr 2023 7:07pm
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AndyS



Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
It's an easy job if you remain calm. Quicker than typing all that. Very Happy

I fitted it then released the bolts supplied were too long so re-fitted it with the originals. Then noticed I'd fitted it upside down do did it again. All within about an hour. Thumbs Up
Post #988349 9th Apr 2023 12:14pm
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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
well the feel good factor didnt last long, checked my shiny new VCV today and its covered in oil dripping onto it from above somewhere Big Cry



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Post #988517 10th Apr 2023 5:52pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1780

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I did mine today - cack handed with sausages for fingers and I found it to be a pig!

My Denso unit came with great instructions and two knurled location pins to align the gasket and the unit when fitting, worked great but the rear one was a b4st4rd to unwind. I found a short length of heat shrink that was a good push fit on the dowel and it unwound easily.

Will try it out tomorrow.

HTH someone equally as sausage equipped as me!

Keith
Post #988522 10th Apr 2023 6:35pm
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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
just a follow up, the oil was dripping from a couple of the inlet manifold gaskets. Removed the manifold and replaced all the gaskets with genuine ones and all sorted. The inside of the manifold was disgusting so i cleaned it all with mister muscle oven cleaner
Post #996952 20th Jun 2023 2:55pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2296

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Great tip n the Mr Muscle. Did it get all the muck out? > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #996956 20th Jun 2023 3:18pm
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miker916



Member Since: 25 Oct 2022
Location: Fife
Posts: 48

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
cant take credit for the mister muscle, found the suggestion on here. Definetly works though, used an old large flat blade screwdriver to scrape the worst of the gunk off then a brush up with an old bottle brush, good as new
Post #996970 20th Jun 2023 6:37pm
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