 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Changing compressor to air drier Aircon hose tips? |
 
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| HTB Member Since: 24 Mar 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 72   
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OK. Here are the basics for a 2012MY 2.2 TDCi.
1. Pick a day when thunderstorms and high winds are forecast. 2. Look at the blue sky and think n'ah... they got it wrong again. 3. with reference to 1 & 2, decide to do it on driveway, rather than in well lit, dry hanger.... 4. Remove engine cover. 5. move / remove coolant expansion bottle. I unbolted it (1 bolt) and then turned it upside down whilst releasing main hose. It then sat at the front of the engine bay, out of the way. 6. Unplug and remove CPU. Two 10mm nuts hold it in place. 7. Unplug vaccum sensor and inertia switch (?) on the left of the bulkhead behind coolant bottle. Once CPU is unplugged and removed it allows the wiring loom to be moved out of the way. Try not to spill coolant into CPU plugs. 8. Swear a bit if you do spill coolant in to a plug. Dry plugs and cross fingers. 9. Unbolt Aircon hose where it bolts through into the cabin behind the engine. This is why you need to remove the CPU as otherwise you won't have access to the single 10mm (spanner) bolt. Unbolt hose at comprerssor and at connection nearest air drier. 10. underneath heater valve the aircon pressure sensor connection needs to be unclipped from the hose. On my 90 this was also surrounded by the axle breather pipes which can be easily moved out of the way. 11. Back to nearside engine bay - the aircon hose routes around behind a brake line which has a connection in it so it can be easily split. I think this is potentially the biggest pain becasue you will introduce air into the brake circuit, albeit a tiny amount. Split the brake line at the connection, move behind the aircon hose and then do it up again. Fluid loss for me was minimal. I tried to remove the aircon hose before realsing I had to split this connection - because the aircon hose is semi rigid in places there isn't a lot of wiggle room and in the end I admited semi-defeat and boke the line as described here. 12. spend 10 minutes trying to coax the aircon hose out of the engine bay, without dragging any cables out of plugs or damaging something. At this point the hose should be out of the vehicle. Also at this point the rain arrived in torrents and I regretted not geting the car under cover. 13. Carefully reroute new hose behind engine. It took me a couple of minutes so was much quicker than removing the old one. I started from the nearside (compressor side) and fed it round to the offside. 14. I bolted the centre section (attaching to the firewall and into the cabin) in first and then worked my way around the engine bay in reverse of all of the points above. Landrover supply all new seals which are in place on the new hose and preoiled. The only seals they do not provide are at the bacl of the compressor. So, now ready to go and see if I have fixed the leak. I did find a hole in the aluminium section of the original hose where it had fretted against a bolt, so hoping I've avoided routing it past anything which can damage it again. Will be bleeding the clutch as I fit a new LOF master cylinder and also the brakes as I replace disks, pads and do my swivel oil seals in the next few days so will see exactly how much air I've introduced into the syetem. Time to do - under 2 hours. if I had to do it again, I expect it would take no more than 1.5 hours.... Hope that helps. |
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2nd Aug 2023 1:22pm |
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