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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841  
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When I had this (just after the screen had been refitted) I went back to the fitters and they used a product called arbomast along the top of the windscreen seal, and down the sides. It stopped the leak.
It’s a kind of non-setting mastic and it seems to do the job well. I’ve since bought a couple of tubes and used it to stop my alpine lights leaking. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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24th Apr 2023 5:17pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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It could be leaking from anywhere, and just find its way out from the point you indicated.
If you do not want to take the screen out to replace the seal, then you could try a removable glass sealant such as the one linked below. It remains soft, and very similar to DumDum. You could lift the seal and lay a tiny but continuous bead all around and under the seal itself, both on the glass and the frame side. http://media.wuerth.com/stmedia/shop/maste.../12600.pdf 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Apr 2023 5:27pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1076  
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Thank you! I think I'll try the Würth stuff. They say it forms a skin, unlike butyl rubber based stuff which I used on the outside of the foam gasket between window frame and bulkhead - it remains sticky and attracts all kinds of dirt
 (I just learned from wikipedia that 'Polyisobutylen' (Würth) should not be confused with 'butyl rubber' (arbomast) - ok...)
edit: just read the Würth stuff remains tacky, too well, maybe not important as long as I apply only a tiny amount inside the seal |
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25th Apr 2023 3:22pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Sorry, I should have said that the arbomast is applied from a standard tube with a 'pressure' gun. You prise up the seal; insert some sort of non-damaging tool into the gap; and then work the tool around in front of the gun nozzle (so creating a space for the sealant to flow into.
Then the seal falls back into place after the gun has passed. Any excess can be wiped off at this stage. You'd never really now it was in there. I think the point of it remaining flexible is to allow it to cope with the flexing of the windscreen frame, where a more rigid compound would crack an allow leaks. I can only say it's worked for me! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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25th Apr 2023 3:47pm |
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| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 462  
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I've had a leak since I rebuilt mine. In the end I discovered a very small gap in the windscreen frame. The frame is made up from some sort of cast alloy type material and the sides are spot welded on. This is where the gap was, its about 0.25mm or less wide and allows water to seep through after about 20 minutes of rain.
I couldn't believe how much water came through such a small gap! It must have been like it from new as the weld plugs on the back are fine. I've smudged some Pu sealer in the gap and it doesn't leak any more. I fitted a new seal and screen myself and used no sealant, but the paint was new, so no flakey stuff. |
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25th Apr 2023 9:19pm |
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| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 462
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Looking at your picture I'd say it's most likely coming in at the top and running around the seal, between it and the frame, as the water is showing below the seal. I'd get someone with a hose outside and sit inside yourself to trace the water back. Start at the bottom, then work up, but it might take a while to find its way through.
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25th Apr 2023 9:26pm |
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