 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Which one temperature sensor? |
 
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| johannes Member Since: 13 Mar 2023 Location: Kokkola Posts: 6   
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I finally found a similar discussion by search:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post559882.html It looks like my Defender has only a cylinder head sensor. |
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13th Mar 2023 10:49am |
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| MMR1988 Member Since: 29 Oct 2016 Location: Chemnitz Posts: 54  
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Yes, the Puma engine has only a cylinder head sensor.
I assume it’s your combi instrument, that doesn’t work properly. You can check this by adding a OBD II Reader to the OBD port and check what values you’ll get for the cooling temp. /Max |
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19th Mar 2023 7:52am |
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| johannes Member Since: 13 Mar 2023 Location: Kokkola Posts: 6
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Thanks! Is that typical fault in Puma instrument panel? Does the sensor control something other than just a pointer on the instrument panel?
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19th Mar 2023 8:07am |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
The sensor is generally used for engine control, not only for the instrument cluster. For more information check workshop-manual.
Follow the advice an check the readings with an OBD-Reader/Nanocom to ensure correct values. |
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19th Mar 2023 8:19am |
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| MMR1988 Member Since: 29 Oct 2016 Location: Chemnitz Posts: 54
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Not very common but it happens from time to time and at least the ECU uses these temps.
The gauge in the instrument shows a somehow calculated value of several sensor anyway. So it’s not really a water temp gauge. As written above you can simply use a OBD reader for replacement if the sensors work correctly. I use a scangauge II some others use an ultragauge (which can be even fitted in the instrument cluster - there is an instruction somewhere in this forum.) And of course there are some special garages that can fix the gauge. |
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19th Mar 2023 8:19am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20413 
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This one:
https://www.lrparts.net/lr039220-engine-te...-puma.html I’d recommend Genuine, it’s likely if the gauge is not working the above CHT sensor has failed, it measures water and head temp. It’s likely that you have higher fuel consumption due to its failure too, though over time it can be difficult to tell. Remember to only replace it when engine is cold, and keep the coolant tank cap on as a little coolant can be lost so a top up on hand is ideal. It’s the best place to start, as it’s relatively cheap but a little difficult to get at. You might want the associated socket to do the job, or just send it in to a garage to do it for you. It’s located to the rear of the engine cover, slightly to the right on the back of the engine block near the upper bulkhead area. You can easily trace it by its cable and piece of convoluted tube for protection, and electrical connector under the engine cover rear. It’s likely the best place to start.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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19th Mar 2023 7:07pm |
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| johannes Member Since: 13 Mar 2023 Location: Kokkola Posts: 6
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Thanks! I'll start by replacing the sensor. Great if the fuel consumption also decreases at the same time.
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19th Mar 2023 7:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20413
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Good luck, I think it’s a good probability that it will be the issue. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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19th Mar 2023 7:53pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1784  
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I did mine yesterday, its a bit of a pig!
Bonnet either off or as high as the garden rake will hold it securely (rope over the top onto the spare wheel as a safety measure) Small steps or hop up for the right access height if you can find a 15mm combination spanner to sacrifice, lob it in half, then put a cut through the ring to allow the cable through, then you can do it by feel as access is really awkward! Best of luck! Keith |
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19th Mar 2023 9:05pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20413
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You are not the only one to say it’s a pain of a job, I had a look myself some weeks ago and thought what a pain to get at being where it is.
At least the electrical connector and wire tail makes it easier to locate. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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19th Mar 2023 9:19pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2017
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Would a 15mm oxygen sensor socket help ? Or a Laser Tools 6870 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Socket- 15mm ? https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/6870/...-15mm-Ford
Note:- a trick I use when using these types of sockets on stubborn sensors is to use a jubilee clamp on the bottom of the socket once it is in place, then tighten it so the socket can’t open and slip if higher levels of torque are needed. For this application I don’t expect you will need to do this, however on oxygen sensors on an exhaust it’s useful as the temps and rust tend to fuse the sensor to the exhaust. Also a little plus gas penetrating oil on the sensor 10 mins before I apply torque. This is a good topic relating to the 2.4 CHT sensor, pictures on its location, and how to test it. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic13014.html?highlight=2+2+cht |
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19th Mar 2023 10:30pm |
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| johannes Member Since: 13 Mar 2023 Location: Kokkola Posts: 6
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Changing the cylinder head temperature sensor did not fix the problem. I opened the instrument cluster. The solder joints seem to be good, but the circuit board has a brown stain. Does it indicate broken components? There is clearly glue on the component side. Are stains on the solder side probably glue also?
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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22nd Mar 2023 8:27am |
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