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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
Grinding / scraping noise after a long drive ….
Another day another defender question for this celebrity forum… After about 130 miles of cruising nicely when I slowed down to go thought a town I got what I can only describe as a grinding / scraping noise when running in 3rd/ 4th gear at lower speed. It’s not there when i change gear but when running. Any ideas? Many thanks Ed.
Post #983792 26th Feb 2023 8:04pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 756

Philippines 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Have you repacked your wheel bearings lately?
Post #983811 27th Feb 2023 1:11am
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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
I did wonder of that was the cause. I have new bearings ready to go in so will try that. Thanks for your help.
Post #983813 27th Feb 2023 8:07am
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1882

 
Or very worn brake pads; or something stuck between the disc and the pads, or the disc and the shield (if you have them fitted).

Both of these would give the same ‘scraping’ noise and are hopefully more likely for something that came on quickly. I’d hope most would hear the rumbling of a worn bearing before it got to the grinding/scraping stage; or notice that there was excessive brake pedal travel. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #983817 27th Feb 2023 9:17am
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 736

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Might be worth checking your handbrake adjustment. May become tight due to heat transfer after the long run.
Post #983821 27th Feb 2023 10:04am
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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
donmacn wrote:
Or very worn brake pads; or something stuck between the disc and the pads, or the disc and the shield (if you have them fitted).

Both of these would give the same ‘scraping’ noise and are hopefully more likely for something that came on quickly. I’d hope most would hear the rumbling of a worn bearing before it got to the grinding/scraping stage; or notice that there was excessive brake pedal travel.





Good thought. I’m having a brand new LOF brake set fitted inc bearings so hopefully that will clear it up. I’ll report back. Cheers Ed.
Post #983823 27th Feb 2023 10:26am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17711

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Re: Grinding / scraping noise after a long drive ….
edward wrote:
... I got what I can only describe as a grinding / scraping noise when running in 3rd/ 4th gear at lower speed. It’s not there when i change gear but when running. ...


Strange one if it is as you describe.

What happens to the noise if you dip the clutch and coast?

My first thoughts would be (like others) along the lines of excessively worn brake pads or HB shoes, or a driveline bearing breaking up, but is hard to explain why the noise stops when you change gear.

It could be a diff breaking up, or may be a pinion bearing or propshaft UJ failing, which quietens when unloaded.

Although you haven't said so in this thread I presume that this is a 110 DC, in which case it could be the start of the front diff breaking up - the two-gear diff fitted to almost every TDCi 110 and 130 is famous for disintegrating with sometimes spectacular results.

Whatever it is, I suggest making quite a strenuous effort to find out the cause, grinding noises are generally more serious than squeaks and rattles and usually are a precursor to something failing completely. Most driveline components are things you don't want to have fail completely when driving!
Post #983834 27th Feb 2023 11:22am
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1882

 
^ Fair play. I hadn't really picked up on that point about the noise going when the clutch was engaged.

I have one experience where my (Mini, not LR) clutch release bearing died. On that, the noise happened when the clutch was engaged, and disappeared when let out again. But I suppose it's possible it could be something related to the clutch plate/flywheel/bearing.

I have to say I'm only really familiar with the Tdi/R380. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #983837 27th Feb 2023 11:27am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17711

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, if the noise appeared with the clutch out and disappeared with the clutch in it would almost certainly be a release bearing problem. This - as reported - does the opposite, which is unusual.

I suspect based on the information currently available to the forum judgment panel from the first post, that it may be a propshaft UJ complaining under load and becoming quiet when unloaded. That would probably be first on my checklist.
Post #983840 27th Feb 2023 11:46am
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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
Re: Grinding / scraping noise after a long drive ….
blackwolf wrote:
edward wrote:
... I got what I can only describe as a grinding / scraping noise when running in 3rd/ 4th gear at lower speed. It’s not there when i change gear but when running. ...


Strange one if it is as you describe.

What happens to the noise if you dip the clutch and coast?

My first thoughts would be (like others) along the lines of excessively worn brake pads or HB shoes, or a driveline bearing breaking up, but is hard to explain why the noise stops when you change gear.

It could be a diff breaking up, or may be a pinion bearing or propshaft UJ failing, which quietens when unloaded.

Although you haven't said so in this thread I presume that this is a 110 DC, in which case it could be the start of the front diff breaking up - the two-gear diff fitted to almost every TDCi 110 and 130 is famous for disintegrating with sometimes spectacular results.

Whatever it is, I suggest making quite a strenuous effort to find out the cause, grinding noises are generally more serious than squeaks and rattles and usually are a precursor to something failing completely. Most driveline components are things you don't want to have fail completely when driving!



Yikes…. Ok I’ll start with the bearings and brakes and see if that clears it up. It’s in the garage today for new tyres so will test later this week. The problem with testing it is that it’s not there all the time and was only really noticeable after a long run…

I’m resigned to replacing nearly every part so this may well be the start of the next part…
Post #983841 27th Feb 2023 11:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17711

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
For starters do the basic checks:

Jack up each wheel in turn and check for movement in the 12/6 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock positions. Check that the wheels turn smoothly and freely. If all are OK this suggests that wheel-bearings and (at the front) swivels are in good order. Be alert to any roughness as you spin the wheels, and listen for odd noises from the diffs, propshafts, or transfer box, and for metallic noises from the brakes. This basic check can tell you a huge amount about the well-being of your driveline.

Then check the front and rear propshafts. It is useful to have one wheel at the end of the vehicle you are checking (so front or rear) raised just off the ground so it can spin while you do this (but leave the wheel on so you are not killed if the jack fails). Check the universal joints at each end of each propshaft for lateral and radial movement and for smoothness of operation. I'd suggest injecting some grease with a greasegun while you are at it. While you are checking the UJs, also check the diff pinion flange for movement and smoothness, and the transfer box flange likewise.

If all of these are OK and at no time during your checks have you heard or felt anything untoward then it is likely that the crucial parts* of the driveline are sound.




* By which I mean the parts that may kill you or others if they fail unexpectedly when the vehicle is in use.
Post #983843 27th Feb 2023 12:40pm
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edward



Member Since: 08 Jan 2023
Location: Lincs
Posts: 151

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the very detailed reply. The brakes etc… go on this week so I’ve asked the garage to explore along the lines you suggest. Will report back with the progress. Cheers Ed.
Post #983918 27th Feb 2023 9:24pm
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