 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Shaking at 65-70mph after replacing bushes |
 
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553   
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Do the easy and cheap test first - swap the front wheels for the back and take it for a drive.
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13th Feb 2023 12:18am |
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115 
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Mossberg, thank you for responding. I will try swapping them over, but had (perhaps incorrectly) discounted wheel balancing given that they have not been touched.
Could the worn radius bushes and ball joints have damped a wheel balancing issue or do wheels sometime just go out of balance? |
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13th Feb 2023 12:41am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5663 
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I think this is your problem.
New nuts and bolts used for the bushes. Bushes were replaced with ****part blue poly type. They were quite easy to put in place and it does look like there is a slight gap between the bush and bracket on the passenger side, but all torqued to 200nm and rechecked after 30-45mins. They should require some effort and be a tight interference fit, not loose on the hole. |
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13th Feb 2023 8:27am |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1913  
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Do you have spacers fitted?
If so just make sure they are not fouling your wheel, you will notice marks on alloys. I had the same issue 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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13th Feb 2023 8:49am |
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115
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Hi Andy, Thank you for your thoughts, I think my description is a little poor having read it back, the radius arm brackets have been squeezed in by the nuts/bolts to match the width of the metal insert. I was referring to a slight gap next to the poly section of the bush.
Should the whole of the bush be an interference fit, or just the metal insert? bear100, good thought, but no spacers fitted. |
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13th Feb 2023 9:48am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2620  
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I changed my dampers a couple of years ago.
Straight after there was a slight shimmy that was not there before. Popped down the rabbit hole of swapping tyres (made it worse), Panhard rod and a couple of other things. I wasn’t using the 90 much at the time so just put up with it. Last year it suddenly did what you described whilst on the A3 and would calm down at 45mph. Took it into my local specialists, described everything that I had done and experienced and they said swivel pins. Which is what it was. I also had them fit the Gwyn Lewis drop arm kit as well and since then it’s been rock solid. So at the very least, jack the front up and take off both wheels, disconnect the various parts off the swivel housing so that there is no drag then move the hubs by hand. If floppy (matron) that’s your problem. Or alternatively get a garage to do it so that they can mess around with the swivel kit and spacers. Hope that helps. |
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13th Feb 2023 11:43am |
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115
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Mark, thanks. I had discounted swivels as what I had read indicated the wobble to be much worse if that was the issue. Further, the swivel issue seemed to be play rather than looseness.
I just looked at the drivers side. There is no play side to side or up and down. However, using a luggage scale I get varying degrees of 'tightness' through the rotation of the hub. Around 4kg seems to be the average turning left, turning back to the right maybe 1kg. When you say floppy, do you mean in rotation or up/down play? Can lack of tight balls cause bad vibrations? |
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13th Feb 2023 2:44pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2620
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Hi TOM
By floppy i meant (sorry, should have expanded on that) that when you move the hub, with nothing attached it takes no effort to move it and hence no resistance. Mine where fine moving the hub up and down, after that i gave it to the garage because messing around with shims at home is a pain especially when they have a full assortment to hand (and a lift and they could do the alignment once everything was completed).  |
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13th Feb 2023 4:21pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3407  
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When checking preload, it needs to be done with track rod disconnected, so you are checking one wheel at a time (and use the track rod connection point), and without the ball seal. I do not have the preload values at top of my head (sure there are some values on this forum, care that 24spline axles need lower values than earlier 10spline with Railko bush). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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13th Feb 2023 4:45pm |
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115
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Gents, thank you for your input. I have now concluded that it is likely I will need to do a rebuild on both hubs. I knew they weren't in great condition, but neither is smooth through its travel, my balls are rusty, dirty and whilst there is no play, not as tight as I'd like em.
However, and whilst I appreciate the advice, I am going to try replacing the panhard rod bushes first. It's an easier job and I have the bushes. I have just popped the panhard rod off. There was no play in it with a bar or wiggling the steering, but the bushes look like this:  Click image to enlarge I had expected, as expressed earlier in the thread, that they would have to have noticeable play to cause wobble, but perhaps not, or perhaps it's a combination of loose swivels and some (albeit undetectable by me) play or even softening of these bushes. I will replace them and report back. |
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13th Feb 2023 5:57pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 484
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Recheck the drop arm fixing nut they sometimes pull up further on the splines once you have driven around for a bit.
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13th Feb 2023 6:30pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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Link to a thread on LR4x4 about preload setting figures
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/58077-setti...ent-509664 |
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13th Feb 2023 6:50pm |
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| murph81 Member Since: 11 Sep 2022 Location: Ireland Posts: 63  
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Did you torque the drop arm nut?
The Torque Setting for the Drop Arm securing nut is 176 NM, it is VERY IMPORTANT that the tightness of this nut is rechecked after use. Once you are satisfied the Drop Arm has fully worked up the tapered spline of the steering box and the nut remains tight you can then knock over the edges of the lock washer. |
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13th Feb 2023 7:33pm |
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115
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Linds and Murph, Thank you. I had read this and did as you have suggested - torqued to 176Nm and left the lock washer. The drop arm doesn't appear loose when shaking the steering wheel, but I will retorque it a few times over the coming days between short trips to be sure.
I did order a new nut, but the diameter across flats was 32.6mm with the original being 33.3mm. Having bought a 34mm socket just to do the drop arm I didn't really want to but a 33mm just to do up the new nut, nor did I want to round the new nut torquing it and give myself a headache, so the old one went back on. Worth noting if anyone buys a new nut, do check it first before you put it on and round it off doing it up or taking it off. Mossberg, thank you for the preload figures. I will need them when I redo my hubs. I think for now they will have to stay as they are. The seal retainers fall apart a little more every time I look at them so leaving well alone until I am ready. New bushes went in to the panhard rod tonight, will try it out tomorrow doing the obligatory last minute valentines day run to the shops to buy whatever is left on the shelves that makes me look like I gave it all lots of thought. |
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13th Feb 2023 11:33pm |
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