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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
HELP!! R380 Mainshaft Support Bearing Removal
Is it possible to remove the R380 Mainshaft Support Bearing from the Input Shaft that goes into the clutch without removing the entire gearbox from the Landy?

The engine is out and I have some excessive play on the input shaft that goes into the clutch from the front of the gearbox.

I am hoping I don't have to drop the gearbox to do this job.

I attached a picture for reference.



Click image to enlarge



Cheers
Ian
Post #979963 27th Jan 2023 2:18am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2647

Scotland 
It would be a gearbox strip to change it.

There is supposed to be play in that shaft when the box is not fitted to the engine, as it is designed to be supported at the front by the bush in the crankshaft. When unsupported it will wobble about.
Post #979976 27th Jan 2023 7:22am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Do not know how different the R380 is to the LT77, but the LT77 has got some shims to set the input shaft bearing, which will only need to remove the front cover plate (the thingy that supports the thrust bearing) to change. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #980031 27th Jan 2023 12:43pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Thanks guys, it saves me knowing there is supposed to be play.

You guys are the real MVPs !!
Post #980039 27th Jan 2023 1:41pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Dinnu wrote:
Do not know how different the R380 is to the LT77, but the LT77 has got some shims to set the input shaft bearing, which will only need to remove the front cover plate (the thingy that supports the thrust bearing) to change.


Dinnu, is there supposed to be any in and out play as well?

I have slight play when I push the input shaft towards and away from the GB.
Post #991371 4th May 2023 3:34am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
There are 2 bearings on the input shaft. One is 'outside' and support the input shaft on the casing, and another on the 'inside' that is between the input shaft and the mainshaft. Depends on how much the slight play is, as that could let the mainshaft go out of alignment. I do not have the manual with me, but my guess is that there should be no axial play.

However I do not think that a slight axial play there would explain your issues you describe in your other posts. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #991373 4th May 2023 4:35am
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Thanks for clearing this up Dinnu, I think something is lodged in between the clutch and the flywheel or something because it's only when the GB and the engine come together I have the issue of not being able to rotate the engine by hand or be able to select any gears using the gear stick when the engine is off.
Post #991436 4th May 2023 11:57am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
What do you mean by "play"?

The shaft does normally move up and down when exposed like in that photo. It is only fully supported when inserted in to the spigot bush in the flywheel.

Or do you mean play in a rotational direction?
Post #991452 4th May 2023 1:29pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Let me see if I can explain clearer..... If I am holding the input shaft in my hand with it pointing towards me I can move it from left to right as to my knowledge is normal, however, I am also able to move it inwards to the GB and outwards towards me.

So in technical terms I am getting play on the Z Axis which has me worried...

Apart from that, I think I found the issue...After removing the clutch and pressure plate I noticed the Pilot bushing is knackered, what do you guys think?

List of pictures below:



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Post #991458 4th May 2023 2:02pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17388

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Is it the correct clutch, and is the clutch fitted correctly? Is is the correct spigot bearing and is the bearing fitted correctly?

I have encountered problems similar to this when the clutch driven plate has been fitted back-to-front, or other weirdness has happened.


Edit: my post crossed with your previous. The spigot bush does look knackered, and if that debris was inside the bush it would quite possibly have rammed the input shaft hard against its bearings making it impossible to turn.
Post #991459 4th May 2023 2:03pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Yes it is the correct clutch and was installed correctly, I never touched or removed the clutch and the truck was working fine, I only removed it to change the broken clutch fork.

To me honestly the clutch plate looks like it still has on lots of meat and the pressure plate looks good also, should just replace the spiggot bushing and go back up?
Post #991461 4th May 2023 2:09pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Knackered spigot bush or not, you should be able to rotate the engine by hand when the engine and gearbox are mated.

I am wondering if the clutch fork is fitted correctly, or if it could be binding on the pressure plate, causing the engine to bind. Would have been a good idea if you had removed the slave cylinder before you removed the engine, and checked that the fork has free play (forward and backwards). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #991483 4th May 2023 5:10pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Damn!!

I guess all I can do now is to get the new bush, and put back up more attentively this time.

I was pretty sure I reinstalled everything to spec, I will post a picture below with the clutch fork so you can see how it was setup, then you can confirm with me if you see any irregularities.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
Post #991486 4th May 2023 5:30pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Dinnu wrote:
Knackered spigot bush or not, you should be able to rotate the engine by hand when the engine and gearbox are mated.

I am wondering if the clutch fork is fitted correctly, or if it could be binding on the pressure plate, causing the engine to bind. Would have been a good idea if you had removed the slave cylinder before you removed the engine, and checked that the fork has free play (forward and backwards).


Another question, let's say hypothetically there was no play from the SC rod on the clutch fork, what does this mean and what would be the solution to fix it?

Also i think while I'm at it I should change the crank seal lol, seeing a lot of oil residue inside of the bell housing and I was leaking a lot of oil in between the engine and the gearbox housing before.


Last edited by BajanRover on 4th May 2023 5:45pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #991492 4th May 2023 5:43pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Before putting the engine back, do the following:

A. Put a straight edge over the pressure plate, and measure the distance from the straight edge to the engine bellhousing. Do this at various positions, so you can calculate an average with high confidence level.

B. Put a straight edge over the gearbox bellhousing and measure the distance from the striaght edge to the clutch fork, where the metal reinforcing tab is welded.

If value from A is less than the value from B, then there is clearance, and can install the engine.
If value from B is less than or equal the value from A, then there is interference, and would be better to find why B is less than A. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #991496 4th May 2023 5:45pm
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