 | Home > Td5 > replacing brakepipes. |
 
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| htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Carmarthenshire Posts: 536  
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3/16" kunifer pipe and a selection of metric fittings will see you right.
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29th Jan 2023 9:16am |
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| Mudlark46 Member Since: 27 Mar 2016 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 8  
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Many thanks, I now need to source a Flaring tool . I understand Sykes Pikavant are the "Bees Knees", but are really expensive. Any ideas to a cheaper but good quality one, as I have a series 1 total rebuild to do as well
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29th Jan 2023 9:25am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17544  
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What year is your SI?
Early vehicles used larger diameter pipes and this may constrain your choice of flaring tool - cheap ones won't work. I've used this seller for pipe and fittings for my '07: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272939906684 |
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29th Jan 2023 9:37am |
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| Mudlark46 Member Since: 27 Mar 2016 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 8
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Thanks for help with that. It's 1956. I am not precious about keeping it original as I have already found that some parts are either not available or too expensive to be available. Such as brakes and half-shafts which will be from later vehicles. If I need larger diameter pipes for the S1, which is likely, a bit of forward thinking is required. I understand that some flaring tools are capable of working with various sizes, which I would have opt for to cope with the S1 or any other projects. I'm not going into mass production, but I do need a tool that will last longer than a couple of projects. So any help will be useful to my pocket.
Your seller says this size is not compatible with my TD5 |
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29th Jan 2023 10:20am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3469  
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I recently done my brake pipes on my 1988 90. I was considering buying a tool like the one below, of which many are on the bay. It looks like this tool is able to make both bubble flares and double flares. In the end I found that due to customs charges and all, it was cheaper to get a garage to flare the pipes for me.
 I still did a jig to straighten the pipes, but that is optional. Description of the jig is on my restoration thread, somewhere half way down on this following page: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72365-315.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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29th Jan 2023 10:58am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17544
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A 56 SI won't give any problems, it is the 80" which can be a challenge (especially the very early hydrostatic models).
I'm surprised that a TD5 and '07 TDCi are different, my 2002 Disco 2 uses the same fittings as my Defender and that link is where I bought the bits for both. Sensible to check, though. |
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29th Jan 2023 11:19am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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I bought one of the simple flaring tools and it has been great. I used cunifer pipe and brass fittings which I think may have been over the top, but my thoughts were that if the fittings corrode it may bind on the pipe and damage it as its unscrewed.
Try to keep the pipe you take off as good as you can. It makes it so much easier make the replacement if you have the original to copy. |
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29th Jan 2023 8:21pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1942 
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Had exactly the same problem with mine, ended up replacing all the pipes, it’s much easier to make them because you can make sections at a time where if you replaced with a stocked one it’s so difficult to fit in place. 2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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29th Jan 2023 8:28pm |
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| Mudlark46 Member Since: 27 Mar 2016 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 8
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what make and model Flaring tool did you use? Is it a hand held one which you can flare the pipes while they are still on the chassis or do you need to use a bench and a vice?
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30th Jan 2023 7:21am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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I used one of the small hand held ones. I actually took the handle off and used it in a vice. I had a tube of break grease so bought the one without the little tub of it as it saved a few quid.
I considered getting one of the better units but didn't because I probably won't need it for anything other than the Defender, being hand held made it possible to use on pipes on the vehicle (though only used it in the vice and could see it being a pain underneath the truck), the cost difference is significant, and with the bigger unit you have to store it. I annealed the pipe before flaring. Heat it to just going dull red then dunk it in water. Cleaned with a dit of scotchbright and used a drill dit around the same size as the bore to remove burrs. I used one of the small cheap pipe cutters to cut the pipe. |
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30th Jan 2023 8:32am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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I found this Ed China video interesting. He uses one of the expensive units, but then he works on more vehicles than I do!
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30th Jan 2023 8:43am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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There are two ways to do this. The first is 100% DIY and the best advice I can give you is to buy at least Laser tools quality. The second way is to buy a pre-made brake pipe kit. Either is a good way to do this job.
When it comes to bending the pipes the best tool is the hand held pliers like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-6971-Bendin...B075TGNS2Y The other tip I would give you is to smear the threads and unions with some red rubber grease as it will help future-proof the union. |
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30th Jan 2023 12:18pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17544
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If yo can run to one the best flaring tool available today IMO is the Sykes-Pickavant Flaremaster 2. Different kits (at slightly different prices) built around the core tool are available, depending on which dies you need. There's also a stainless pipe option if that floats your boat.
This is a more modern tool than the one which Ed China is seen using in the video a couple of posts above, and if you can only have one flaring tool this is probably the most convenient. It is a handheld tool and can be used successfully in quite confined spaces which is a huge advantage if you are installing repair sections into pipes which are still attached to the vehicle at one end. I replumbed the rear brake lines on my Disco 2 not long ago, and as anyone who has one will vouch, the ROS line is almost impossible to replace as a one-piece line unless you remove the body from the chassis. Since it is quite common for half the line to be as right as rain, and only the rear part corroded, a portable tool makes it very easy to install a new half-line, or a new full line in two parts. The vice-mounted SP tool Ed is using in the video is the ideal tool if you regularly need to make up lines with different size pipes, it will for example enable you to make new pipes for a SI 80" (which is I recall is 1/4" pipe), and I was even able to make a new windscreen wiper drive rack "outer" with the correct flares when I fitted linked wipers years ao to my 86" SI (the wipers are not the same distance apart as on later LRs, so fitting linked wipers requires adjusting the drive rack "outer" tube). I don't know if any of the tool hire places will hire out the Flaremaster, if so it might be an option. Certainly once you have used tools of this calibre you will be reluctant to go back to the "budget" end of the market. You will also find that the labour charges you save by doing the job yourself will usually pay for the tool, which may help self-justify the outlay. |
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30th Jan 2023 12:48pm |
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