 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > IRB Uprahed Adapter Shaft |
 
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209   
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A new option for replacement adapter shaft. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbi...7924979616
Seems to imply in the description that other solution (LOF with the really long bolt?) might not have the correct clamping force. Like the LOF one though it is a rigid shaft so they must not think misalignment is an issue. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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8th Oct 2022 1:06pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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Is there a sleeve that fits over those lobes, or are they just used to lock the gearbox for tightening the rear bolt?
Surely, I cannot see all the torque being transferred through the 3 (or 6?) hollow dowel pins. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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8th Oct 2022 1:54pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2005
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I’m pretty sure Porny on here is IRB developments so hopefully he will post more details on here and explain the engineering behind the IRB solution.
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8th Oct 2022 3:08pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386 
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The lobes appear to serve no purpose except to hold the female part for tightening (which is an excellent idea, and is the one aspect of the current Ashcroft design I am unconvinced about).
The drive torque will be transmitted by the three hollow locating dowels, the socket head caps, and the friction of the two parts clamped together. I think I would be inclined to use thread lock on the six capscrews, and possibly even drill them for a lockwire. |
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8th Oct 2022 5:38pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209
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Irb have made a further post on their FB feed explaining their engineering decisions as to why it is like it is. They’ve essentially adapted an existing design by Ford. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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8th Oct 2022 5:47pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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If I see correctly, to use the locking key, the adaptor housing has to be removed from the gearbox. If that is correct, it would add extra labour hours. Thinking about it, the propshafts transmit all the power through 4 3/8UNF bolts (and the friction from their clamping). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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8th Oct 2022 6:15pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2005
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Looking at the tool you would fit a long 1/2 inch drive extension bar to the tool, then a breaker bat at right angles, thus clearing the adapter housing. But then again the tools diameter, especially the arm may be too big so the adapter housing may need removal, I can’t really tell from the pics. So I suspect you are right Dinnu.
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8th Oct 2022 6:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386
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It's not a big deal to remove the adaptor housing from the gearbox, it's about 10 bolts. With a windy gun it takes about 30 seconds and with hand tools about 3 minutes! It makes changing the coupling so much easier I find it hard to believe that anyone would not remove it.
As far as I remember you can't fit the LR locking adaptor to the gearbox with the housing fitted anyway. |
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8th Oct 2022 8:13pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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^^^ you are correct, although it took me a bit longer than 3mins to remove my adaptor housing, and much longer to put back, especially as probably previous hand in there used a windy gun as well to put the bolts back in, and had one or 2 stripped threads in the gearbox (now helicoiled). I think it is important that at least the bolts are hand started to avoid chewing up the soft aluminium threads. Access to the top bolts is a bit restricted, but not too bad. Indeed there are 11 bolts. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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9th Oct 2022 6:58am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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I expect too many people don't remove the housing and also use an impact gun on the bolt holding the female part without a thought for the damage they are doing to the gearbox.
Not wanting to fit my replacement Ashcroft parts on my drive, I asked the potential fitters how they did it and if they had the correct LR tool for holding the female coupling whilst replacing it. I settled for getting Ian at IRB to fit it as they confirmed that they remove the extension housing and use the correct LR tool and a big torque wrench, this resulted in Ian getting a number of other jobs at the same time. Not being there when IRB did the work, I can only trust they did it right but at least Ian knew the correct process, the fact he has developed a tool for his own solution reinforces that trust. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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9th Oct 2022 7:10am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386
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The latest iteration of the Ashcroft coupling lacks the two notches required for the LR holding tool to work.
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9th Oct 2022 7:27am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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I just put the gearbox in 1st gear and torqued the nut to 133lb ft, although technically should go to a higher torque to ensure the cup is fully in, then back the bolt off, and torque to 133lb ft, but my cup was not a tight fit on the main shaft
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If the gearbox cannot handle 133lb ft, I think we would have a bigger issue... especially even more so for the Transit/Ranger owners with the 3.2 engine. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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9th Oct 2022 7:57am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17386
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I don't think that torqueing the nut up per se is the problem, I would be more concerned to know that someone had used an impact wrench to remove (or fit) the setscrew relying on the gears and shaft bearings to hold the shaft.
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9th Oct 2022 9:05am |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
I'm sure i have asked why some sort of aftermarket sealed UJ arrangement could take care of the misalignment cannot remember why that was a bad idea? Also is it a bad idea structurally to drill a hole through the female cup and the spline fixing both in place with a high tensile bolt? |
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28th Oct 2022 7:51pm |
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