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Trundlebus



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Herts
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 
2.2 turbo to intercooler hose replacement
Can anyone help with the best way to replace the lower hose ( drivers side). I have replaced the top one on the left and had the dreaded 90 degree one done by an independent.
I have a new silicone one for the last of the the three.
My landy has aircon and it looks darned hard to get access to the remaining hose. Can anyone give me some guidance on what I need to move to be able to get access. It seems the air cleaner box is right in the way and the fan casing.
Just need a clue before I get started.

thanks
Post #968270 19th Oct 2022 9:23am
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piechipsandpeas



Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: Albany, Western Australia
Posts: 208

Australia 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Hi Trundlebus

Fairly simple to do but a bit tight for space.
1. Remove top portion of fan cowl (6 x 1/4 turn screws). This will give you access to the turbo to intercooler hose jubilee clip at the intercooler end (you'll need a long screwdriver or 1/4 inch driver bit with extensions). Also the lower portion is now quite flexible and can be moved to the side a bit to make access a bit easier.
2. Remove MAF sensor wire connector from MAF sensor, loosen airbox to turbo hose jubilee clip and remove top of airbox and take out air filter.
3. Remove airbox to turbo hose (disconnect breather hose). You may want to cover over the open turbo inlet to avoid anything accidentally getting in there (a spare latex glove is good for this).
4. Remove the jubilee clips holding the hose you are trying to replace from the turbo and intercooler.
5. There should also be a bracket half way along the hose that you need to open to let the hose free . This bracket was put on as part of a recall on early 2.2's (later ones had them fitted from the factory) and it stops the hose rubbing on other parts.
6. Take the hose off from the turbo and the intercooler and remove from the engine bay. It's pretty tight but should slide/wiggle out towards the rear.
7. Check the length of the original one with your new one as the new one may need trimming slightly to suit depending on which manufacturer you have purchased from.
8. Installation is reverse of removal. Use new clips if the old ones aren't in good condition. Spend a bit of time checking the orientation of the hose making sure it isn't close to fouling on anything. The middle bracket is fiddly to reattach.

Andy
Post #968300 19th Oct 2022 12:34pm
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Trundlebus



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Herts
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 
Thanks Andy, that's a real help. I will give it a go and report back.
Post #968330 19th Oct 2022 4:03pm
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Trundlebus



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Herts
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 
Well it’s nearly done. At least the hose is fitted. Now put back the parts I had to remove. I found I had to shift the i late air snorkel and pipe to get access to the mid bracket. That meant removing the Ariel.
Air conditioning pipes in the way so undid the bracket to be able to move them. Other than that, a lot of struggling swearing and jammed hands. Not a lot of space especially refitting the front end of the hose.
Thanks again for the info.
Post #968541 21st Oct 2022 11:49am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1990

United Kingdom 
Did you fit a silicon hose ? A bit late now but ky jelly helps with fitting the hoses onto the spigots and then drys out and evaporates , thus helping the hose to stay clamped.

Now lay under the engine with a torch and shine on hose where it’s above the steering column to check their is a reasonable gap between them. You should be able to feel that gap with your fingers. With my BAS silicon hose I had to remove circa 15mm off the turbo end to get a good clear of steering column fit.

Now you have had practice fitting hose to the intercooler you will find it useful when the std Intercooler fails at the crimp seam, unfortunately it’s a “when”, not “if”, when it comes to intercooler failure. Sad
The good news on that one is many of us have done the IC replacement so lots of help on here and, like Mr Kipling and his cakes, BAS make exceedingly good intercoolers that will last the life of the vehicle and perform better than the standard IC.
Post #968544 21st Oct 2022 12:09pm
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Trundlebus



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Herts
Posts: 99

United Kingdom 
Ian,
Thanks, I did replace with a silicon hose. As I said biggest problem is access. I have checked le arance as you suggested and it seems fine. I hope the Intercooler holds for a bit! I guess that now the hoses won’t let out the air the Intercooler will fail.
It’s all done now, just a road test bit I need to let my hands recover first. At 72 they take time to get over the bashes and cuts
Post #968554 21st Oct 2022 2:11pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1990

United Kingdom 
Well done Trundlebus I hope I’m still agile enough to take on such restricted area jobs at 72! And those cuts will be balanced with the sense of satisfaction that you took the job on and won.

When you do test drive take your socket set with you in case a hose clamp gets loose.

Fingers crossed the IC will hold out for several more years, and to be honest changing the IC is easier than changing the hose from the turbo and definitely easier than the elbow to the inlet manifold and you have done those. The third hose from the IC to the metal pipe before the elbow being very easy.
Post #968579 21st Oct 2022 5:14pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3671

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Trundlebus wrote:
Ian,
I guess that now the hoses won’t let out the air the Intercooler will fail.


Many a true work spoken is jest! Check out my build thread, that’s exactly what happened!!
Post #968583 21st Oct 2022 5:34pm
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