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steveww

Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 571

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green

NC 500

Click image to enlarge

I've just completed the NC 500 in my Defender 110 with roof top tent. Below are a few notes from that experience that I hope might help others who are considering a similar trip.

The Guide
========

North Coast 500 by Robbie Roams
ISBN 978-1399925525

This is the best guide book out a several I purchased.

When To Go
=========

If you can avoid the peak season of July and August you will miss the log jams on the single track roads, full parking and the infamous Highland Biting Midge. Spring or Autumn is the best time to the road trip, the weather is always a gamble no matter what the time of year; this is Northern Scotland, there will be plenty of weather.

Where To Stay
===========

There are plenty of B&B but very few restaurants and cafes. Breakfast is guaranteed but lunch and dinner will be challenging. There are some pod / lodge type accommodation which include a kitchen so you can be more self sufficient. There are a few hotels which vary from the truly luxurious to Fawtly Towers. The best option is camping, there are plenty of campsites with full facilities and spectacular sea views. This option gives you the greatest flexibility, you can stop for a picnic lunch anywhere except passing spaces and always get a table for dinner. Of course when you do find a restaurant you can take a night off from cooking.

What To Drive
==========

If you choose the camping option for accommodation, you can hire a camper van, put a tent in the car or put a tent on the roof of your car.

There is a lot of single track with passing places roads and these have suffered with the popularity of the NC 500 resulting in epic pot holes and frayed edges. The larger roads also have their fair share of poor surfaces, think comfort not speed. When I did the NC 500 I saw and heard reports of numerous shredded tyres and broken alloy wheels. I would not take anything sporty with low profile tyres and fragile expensive alloy wheels. An old Land Rover Defender is the ideal vehicle but I’m a bit biased here. However, the elevated driving position provides excellent views over walls and hedges to see the scenery and oncoming traffic, sheep and cows. The rugged suspension and tyres will not be damaged if you hit a pot hole or slip off the edge of the crumbling tarmac. If you go with a camper van, think small. Big vans will not fit down the smaller roads and you’ll miss the best scenery, something like a VW T6 is what you need.

Which Direction
============

Clockwise or anti clockwise, that is the question. The East and Northern Coasts are both a bit dull, save the best until last and go anti clockwise. If you’re not bothered about getting to John o Groats and Dunnet Head, you can skip the whole North East section and take the A838 through Lairg.

Deviations
========

If you’re driving up to Inverness go through the Cairngorms and take some specular scenery in before you start. Glenshee and Cock Bridge to Tomintoul are passes that are well worth the drive.

A short distance to the East of Inverness is the Culloden battlefield, well worth a visit either at the start or the end of the NC 500.

Going anti clockwise on the NC 500 start off with a little detour through the Black Isle. There’s some great scenery, a brewery and the possibility of spotting dolphins along the coast. Take time to have a stroll through Cromarty and possibly have lunch in one of the cafes. Rejoin the NC 500 by taking the small ferry across; this does not run all year.

From Lochinver do not follow the A837, instead follow the cost road south and join the A835 at Drumrunie. This is why you don’t want a large camper van.

After Applecross and the infamous Bealach na Ba pass continue south to Kyle of Lochaish and cross the bridge to Skye. The pass is not that bad but not passable in anything larger than a VW T6.

Highlights
=======

These are the places I visited that I though were special. There are many places I did not visit that could also be very special.

Black Isle
Cromarty
Latheronwheel Harbour
Castle of Mey
Bydand Restaurant, Thurso
Strathy Beach
The Store Cafe & Bar, Bettyhill
Coldbackie Bay ///treaties.riot.wriggled (4x4 only)
Sango Sands Campsite
Sandwood Bay
Kylesku Hotel & Restaurant
Clachtoll Beach campsite
The Torridon Hotel

4th Oct 2022 3:50pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3685

Black Isle brewery do some cracking beers! Great write up but we need pics!

4th Oct 2022 5:27pm

sako243

Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1229

1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

Smoo Cave on the North Coast. Loch Eriboll also up there has some fantastic history. Durness and Cape Wrath all great places to stop off. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi

4th Oct 2022 6:25pm

steveww

Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 571

Co1 wrote:
Black Isle brewery do some cracking beers! Great write up but we need pics!

Pictures here https://adobe.ly/3SEO6e4

4th Oct 2022 6:50pm

Angus_Beef

Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Oslo
Posts: 434

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

what a wonderful trip. thanks for taking the time to write it up and sharing pictures! Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭

4th Oct 2022 6:57pm

JOW240725

Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7907

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey

Great write up and stunning photos!!

James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers

4th Oct 2022 7:06pm

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3765

Loved the NC500 and would jump in my truck and do it again in a heart beat

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

We nipped over to Orkney also

4th Oct 2022 7:07pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3685

steveww wrote:
Co1 wrote:
Black Isle brewery do some cracking beers! Great write up but we need pics!

Pictures here https://adobe.ly/3SEO6e4

Cracking pictures. Thanks for sharing.

4th Oct 2022 7:41pm

DSC-off

Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1432

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Lots of really good advice in the post re, when to go, what to take, accommodation and eating out.
The only thing I'd add is, if you're not bothered about saying "I've driven the 500" just stick to the West Coast, anywhere from Kintyre to Durness. Or get on the ferry to Orkney.
Ferrys to anywhere will make the journey infinitely more interesting.*

* assuming they're running, best not to mention it north of the border.

4th Oct 2022 8:19pm

Bobtailkev

Member Since: 17 Mar 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 111

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue

Hi Steveww,

Thank you very much for taking the time to write this detailed post- you really have provided a wealth of information.

Very many thanks,

Kevin

5th Oct 2022 7:35pm

Mini Landie

Member Since: 23 Sep 2015
Location: Basingstoke Massiff
Posts: 159

Great post, thanks for sharing! NC500 is on my bucket list twice. Once in a comfy car such as my BMW (spring/summer) and once in my Defender (any time of year but due to capability, autumn or winter would suit me). 2003 90 TD5 Hardtop

9th Oct 2022 11:19am

Birdy

Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Côte d'Azur
Posts: 869

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Our last "NC500" type road trip was as follows:

Driving North, we overnighted in Kendal (stayed at the Eagle & Child LA8 9LP), Fort William (Moorings Hotel PH33 7LY), drove from Fort William to Kishorn, Shieldaig, Fearnmore, Applecross, Kishorn, Shieldaig (Kishorn and Shieldaig twice as it's better driving anticlockwise for better views over the Bealach na Bà), then Torridon (The Torridon Inn IV22 2EY), Elphin, Clashnessie, Drumbeg, Laxford Bridge, Durness to Melvich (Melvich Hotel KW14 7YJ), then Dunnet Head, John O’Groats, Dornoch, Nairn, Glenlivet, Tomintoul (Glentorets B & B AB37 9HU), then Glen Cova, to Melrose for four nights (Burts Hotel TD6 9PN).

On the way back Whitby, the White Horse & Griffin Y022 4BH an absolute must...

Oh, nothing as rugged as a Defender, we took the Morgan!

Peter

9th Oct 2022 12:27pm

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