Home > Maintenance & Modifications > MOT fail - brake pads |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17458 |
Over the years I have come across some startlingly bad Britpart parts and as a result simply started avoiding them like the plague. It is probable that the quality has improved as the company has grown and if I am being honest and fair I am sure that its calipers would be safe and good value - I'm just not ready for them myself! AP pistons corrode too and piston corrosion is the killer of also all calipers eventually. I think all my nipple covers have come from eBay. |
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19th Sep 2022 7:44am |
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The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289 |
Sorry for not comming back to you regarding this have been incomunicardo for a few days.... For calipers prebuilt with SS pistons : LOF have theses: https://lofclutches.com/store/brakes/brake...price-desc For SS bleed nipples : I got a set from Pioneer 4x4 - they may not list them, but they do, do them As for rusted pistons killing calipers, I'd say that the pistons kill the seals that leads to caliper failure, almost all calipers can be overhauled or rebuilt, those that are or have a genuine fault can go into a smelter and be recycled into new fresh cast calipers or any other thing from cast iron or steel. Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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21st Sep 2022 8:33pm |
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kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309 |
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22nd Sep 2022 3:40pm |
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kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309 |
Finally finished this job. Was going to just change the pistons and seals on the old callipers as they looked fine, including the bleed nipples. However one piston was seized and didn't want to move even using the brakes whilst connected to the hydraulic system. So sourced some new calipers and all is well. Keeping the old to refurbish when I have more time. Will try and eject piston with compressed air.
Was able to bleed the whole system front and back so all good now. |
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24th Sep 2022 1:31pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17458 |
If the piston didn't move under hydraulic pressure with the brakes connected the chance of shifting it with compressed air is somewhere south of nil, the pressure you can generate with your foot on the pedal is many times greater than the output of a compressor.
Faced with this problem I split the caliper, drilled a 10.5mm hole in the base of the piston and tapped the hole with an M12 thread. Then I used an M12 setscrew as a jackscrew with an electric windy gun to get the piston out. What was pleasing (and possibly a little surprising faced with this level of violence) was that in every case the cylinder bore is fine, all of the corrosion and damage is on the piston. I don't usually recommend splitting calipers unless it is essential, but gallery seals are available for Defender calipers and under most circumstances you can probably reuse the originals at least once. The bolts are 7/16" UNF, with grade S on the single pot rear calipers and grade V on the twin pot fronts. try to avoid damaging the front caliper bolts since it appears to be very, very difficult to buy Grade V 7/16" UNF bolts now. The rear caliper bolts aren't a problem to replace (grade S being normal HT in a UNF thread, equivalent to a metric 8.8). |
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24th Sep 2022 1:50pm |
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kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309 |
Hmm seems like a lot of effort. Next time I have to change the callipers, will get new ones again.
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24th Sep 2022 5:25pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17458 |
Midway through the overhaul of a fairly gnarly set of Puma 110 calipers, I have to say that buying new ones is the sensible option.
My set of four is now shotblasted, fully stripped and cleaned up ready for paint, but this has taken about six hours of work so far. It will be at least double this by the time I have finished. Add to the bill stainless pistons, new piston seals, new gallery seals, and new bleed nipples, and it becomes clear that new calipers would have been both cheaper and quicker. If you want calipers with stainless pistons, my advice would be buy new calipers and replace the pistons with stainless before fitting. If you want "go-faster Corsa red" calipers, buy new ones and paint them before fitting because it is cheaper in labour terms to do this than clean up old ones! That said, overhauling a set is interesting, fulfilling, and appeals to my sense of "green-ness" (it seems wrong to send something that is 80% sound and usable to the recycler). |
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24th Sep 2022 7:58pm |
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htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Carmarthenshire Posts: 532 |
There is also the question of whether you are of an engineering/ repairer bent or just a fitter.
Some get a pleasure out of repairing/reconditioning something, whether it is financially cost effective is another matter. Use the skills or lose them, when new parts are not available. |
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27th Sep 2022 11:08am |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2048 |
BW, surely when it comes to brake calipers you would want them in “Go slower” red, yellow , silver or gold. Ps. Any views on which colour will give the best braking performance PPS. Great informative topic , when I need to replace I will follow advice and go for AP Delphi calipers plus dust caps, in fact I will be getting the caps now and look to change out bleed nipples as well on existing calipers. |
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27th Sep 2022 11:35am |
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jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 |
Having recently just carried out the same task on the rear calipers on my 110, I'd completely agree. If you buy new calipers and are just swapping out the pistons to stainless versions, it's entirely possible to do so without disturbing the seals. I understand the AP calipers with stainless pistons from LOF are exactly that. And are pretty much the same cost as buying the calipers and the pistons separately. Weirdly I got to this conclusion and still went on to buy pistons, seals, paint and some spare calipers to rebuild. I did quite enjoy it, but it definitely isn't cost effective! |
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27th Sep 2022 2:22pm |
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The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289 |
You could use either :
Brake Caliper Specialists : https://www.bcs-automotive.co.uk/ Or Brake Caliper Refurbs : https://brakecaliperrefurbs.co.uk/ Alternative would be Bigg Red : https://www.biggred.co.uk/ Both BCS and BCR will do a refurb, with SS pistons, new seals, pressure test and paint. I've had them do it for me, BCS manufactuered a set of pistons for a set of front SAAB 93 Viggen Coupe calipers, BCR acceped a set of pistons and seals from Zeus when they did all 4 calipers for the 110 Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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27th Sep 2022 6:13pm |
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Marks Landy Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 299 |
What’s the turnaround time?
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27th Sep 2022 6:17pm |
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The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289 |
Best of emailing them: it varies BCS took about 4-5 weeks, but I did plan to collect, but ened up shipping them back. BCR took about the same, but it was over Covid Lockdown, so everybody was wanting the service, since few people were using their cars, never used Bigg Red.
All 3 are in the Midlands so you could do a Drop and Collect? Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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27th Sep 2022 6:30pm |
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kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309 |
The LOFF new AP calipers with stainless pistons cost less than the quote I got from BCS for a refurb.
I guess they have a "lifetime warranty" which they have to fund. |
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27th Sep 2022 8:06pm |
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