 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Full caliper/disc/pad change, what else at the same time? |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5829   
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End of the month I have a major overhaul of the Front brakes planned:
Pads Discs Calipers Hoses Fixed Lines I also plan to do seals and regrease on both swivel joints. But whilst in there, what else should I consider on a 100k 2011 2.4 Puma? Are there any common problems/wear and tear items I should be looking out for? Are there any ‘absolutely do not forget to….’ pointers or top-tips? I’m wondering about: Seals Bearings Bolts Etc Maybe even as far as stub axle wear etc. Any help or tips, as always gratefully received  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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15th Sep 2022 11:24am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289  
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The hardline brake pipe/pipes that run along the rear axle - I replaced with a SS overbraid Flexi hose from Pioneer 4x4, it elimates the corrosion isssue of a hardline.
Also worth getting the brake line fittings that the rear flexi lines go into thats bolted to the axle, a little brass 4 way connector. I did exact what you are doing 2 years ago to my 110 Puma, refubished calipers with SS pistons, discs, pads, wheel bearings, hoses, fluid. The whole braking system felt so much more progessive, and solid. Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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15th Sep 2022 12:34pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 970  
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On my 2011 Puma at 60K just a few weeks ago I replaced Discs and Pads all round including the Brake Servo and Servo Vacuum Pump. But the brake performance was generally shocking and changing just pads and discs made no difference even after bedding in.
Much better now Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT Last edited by Leamreject on 15th Sep 2022 4:45pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th Sep 2022 1:06pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 
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If there's nothing wrong with the existing wheel bearings, then there's no reason to change them.
Clean, inspect, re-grease and refit. But..... If you get it apart and they are damaged, then you end up waiting for parts. Depending on how long you can cope with it being off the road, you may want to buy the bearings so you have them to hand if you need them. My Defender is my daily drive, so when I get to this job, I'll probably pick up the bearings just in case, so I can get he car back on the road without delay. That said, if I buy them, and have it apart, I may end up putting them in! |
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15th Sep 2022 3:01pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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Caliper bolts. Having suffered with some that wouldn't come out, definitely change.
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15th Sep 2022 3:51pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2108 
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^
I’ve lost days of my life, and layers of skin, removing stubborn caliper bolts. Having to remove a recently replaced caliper for unrelated reasons, the joy of undoing a ‘new’ bolt cannot be overly exaggerated 
They are relatively inexpensive. And if you’re a brake disc dust shield fan, now would be a good time to replace (or banish to room 101)… |
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15th Sep 2022 5:24pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5829
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Thank you all. I think bearings might be worth it given where I live (Alps, so lots of salt, water, snow etc during winter Months, normally Dec through to late March). Mine is a daily driver, and whilst I have access to my wife’s car, it’s a bind. So good to get it done in one go.
With regard to other suggestions, I have a full brake line upgrade planned. The RHS fixed line in the engine bay had a friction created split, and suddenly burst. So those three lines (RHS, LHS and T-Jnc) were all replaced six months ago. But I have a full pioneer kit to do the back end as well, and further have Goodrich braided lines for the calipers. Talking of which, I’ll make note to get some new bolts for the new calipers. Makes absolute sense. JST, track rod ends are also already bought and ready for fitting. Some of the rubber is definitely degraded. And then some new tyres all round. Thank you all.  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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16th Sep 2022 6:42am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2108
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Although some may consider this overkill…
Whenever I’m contemplating any work on brakes, suspension, steering etc. I always spend some quality time browsing the Gwyn Lewis and YRM product pages. There’s always an upgraded or improved bracket, bush or fixing that I simply MUST have to complete the work… Sad I know  |
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16th Sep 2022 7:05am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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Two more things;
Consider doing the modification to the bracket on the swivel pin housing to allow you to remove the caliper without disconnecting brake lines. Get a socket that is a snug fit on the caliper bolts. I have a few 13mm bi-hex and also 1/2" bi-hex. People say use the 1/2" but the best bet is to try them. My best fitting socket was a 13mm Kennedy which was the tightest fit of the lot - it didn't need hammering on but it was a good snug fit with no twist. Unfortunately you won't know which is best until you try the individual socket. |
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16th Sep 2022 9:16am |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 625
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I purchased a Pioneer 4x4 stainless kit for my Puma 12 months ago but wasn’t that impressed - it did not come with the correct spline type ends to fit the Puma chassis. Shame really as I fitted one of their prototype kits some yard ago to my 300tdi.
In the end the only braided stainless hoses I could find with the correct Puma / late Td5 splined ends were Britpart - they have been surprisingly good in use with no issues. |
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16th Sep 2022 10:42pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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Thats why I bought the full LOF kit when I did mine, didn't end up using the bearings as mine were fine but at leastI now have a full set of Timkens on the shelf for when I need them. |
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17th Sep 2022 8:40am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3425  
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If replacing so many things, might as well replace the axle tube if it is a mig welded 2011 axle
 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Sep 2022 8:45am |
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