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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Vented discs - Drilled or not ?
Time to look at new vented discs for the 110. (just had new Mintex pads all round and new AP calipers on the front)
Do I go for standard vented or venture into vented and drilled/grooved discs? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #950982 29th Apr 2022 10:23am
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
Drilled discs are more prone to crack, esp on the cheaper ones.
Post #950984 29th Apr 2022 10:27am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I don't need that in my life! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #950986 29th Apr 2022 10:34am
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
Grooved keep the pads a bit cleaner, but also wear them faster.
Post #950988 29th Apr 2022 10:48am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #950992 29th Apr 2022 11:07am
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 289

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver
Having run cars with Drilled/Dimpled/Groved or a cobination of these;

The groves allow hot gas generated by the pad when braking to escape from the pad/disc interface, additionaly the groves "smooth/shave" the pad preventing uneven wear on the disc at cost of the pad life. They also allow rust, mud or debris an escape path from the face of the disc when trapped between pad and disc.

The idea of the cross-drilling is to allow cooling of the disc, allowing "airflow" - supposed. The issue is that the holes create stress points on the disc, the heating cooling cycles of braking cause cracks to propergrate from these holes, this can happen on either face of the disc. I know from experience Rolling Eyes

As a result dimples were a replacement due to the dish at the bottom of the dimple the stress is less due the hole not going all the way through the disc, the dimple provides surface area for cooling and "looks cool" (not my opinion!)

Often you can't get groves without the dimnples - but I do know that EBC do discs with groves but no holes or dimples. Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion
Post #951022 29th Apr 2022 5:24pm
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jfh



Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 357

South Africa 2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White
It's a Defender not a Ferrari!

Go plain ventilated.
Post #951037 29th Apr 2022 6:50pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1982

United Kingdom 
Well unles you have a 705hp LS3 supercharged conversion Very Happy
Post #951042 29th Apr 2022 7:29pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2217

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
The drillings soon fill up with mud anyway and are rendered useless.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #951052 29th Apr 2022 7:58pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 5150

United Kingdom 
Re: Vented discs - Drilled or not ?
excossack wrote:
Time to look at new vented discs for the 110. (just had new Mintex pads all round and new AP calipers on the front)
Do I go for standard vented or venture into vented and drilled/grooved discs?


I stopped buying fancy discs like these, for a couple of reasons, The drilled ones i fitted, one ended up cracking, those were not cheap either. The grooved discs i found no difference in performance over the standard discs. So i just stayed with standard discs from now on. Good quality ones mind, don't go for the cheap stuff, i was bumped the last time with discs, and which gave the car an MOT failure, one had cracked on the rear! Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #951069 29th Apr 2022 11:48pm
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 808

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
Fitted these to my 110 a couple of years ago and no problems since.

www.paddockspares.com/ftc902ap-brake-disc-...kheed.html

£62/pair including delivery and a known brand Delphi/AP Lockheed.

I wouldn't go cheaper or gimmicky 'performance' parts on such a safety critical part.
Post #951088 30th Apr 2022 9:26am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers all.
I did look at the those Delpi discs and thats probably what I will end up with.
Keep it simple! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #951236 1st May 2022 5:13pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Standard Drilled Dimpled Grooved Rolling Eyes

Had them all on Miffy over the years. The thinking was since she is a bit of a heavy-weight that upping the "performance" of the brakes would be a good idea. Made me feel better at the time. However, in my experience what makes the biggest difference to braking is keeping the braking equipment in "tip-top" condition; calipers, fluid, servo the works. Without these at optimal efficiency the addition of performance discs and pads will make some but limited difference.

On the discs themselves;

  • I have never had a set fracture,
  • Drilled are better than dimpled as the holes do not fill up like the dimples do,
  • Grooves do fill up eventually, but only after several years of use.
  • Manufacturer does not appear to be a factor (EBC, Britpart, etc),
  • The difference in wear is negligible, with 8 years on the set of four they are well under half worn.


Having just replaced the Servo, MC, four calipers, pads, lines and fluid (discs remain the same) on Miffy the difference in braking is akin to jumping from a Series 3 in to a Freelander 2... Immense improvement in braking and lending weight to the braking equipment being of more importance than performance discs.

As an aside... It is also noticeable that when I had the Discovery transfer box fitted the brakes wore much quicker than when the standard Defender transfer box is fitted. Obviously, the slowing down is being transferred from the brakes to the gears, whether that is better or worse only time will tell.

Back to the thread topic. Would I buy performance discs again... Probably not. But with one caveat... As with the rear discs on Miffy the drilled and grooved were cheaper than the Delphi standard alternatives so those were fitted. Possibly a risk but after many many years they are holding up well.

Health of the hydraulic and vacuum system is key, not the appearance of performance.
Post #951527 4th May 2022 9:32am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I can feel a difference after new pads all round and new front calipers along with a bleed of the front brakes.

Before I swapped the front calipers, it felt like one side grabbed first but now its even. I put this down to the old pistons sticking a bit.

Maybe new rear calipers will be on the list in the future, but first new new discs up front and will stick with standard discs

Assuming the calipers are the originals, then they have done 237k (at least 100k with me) and same with the front discs (at least 100k with me) 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #951530 4th May 2022 9:44am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Quite John... there are not many vehicles that can put +100k miles on a set of discs and +200k miles on calipers with only a minor reduction in performance.

There is no doubt in my mind that new rear calipers will help.

Whilst you are changing the front discs remember to order new hub lock nuts and hub seals and think about whether your bearings should be replaced as well. If they have done +200k miles then I would say do them whilst you are in there. If you are not replacing the bearings then a clean and repacking with grease would be a good idea.

This job is easily DIYable with minimal tools. A large vice is handy, but not essential. A long breaker bar, 12 point sockets, lump hammer, knocker-outerer (a means by which to tap out the bearing races if you are changing them) and thread lock are essential.

Remember when done you will need to bed in the pads and discs Thumbs Up
Post #951536 4th May 2022 10:08am
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