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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227   
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Either the pink or orange wire within the convoluted rubber grommet/tube will be broken due to the fatigue of opening/closing the door. If you pull back the rubber you should be able to locate the break. best repair would be to replace that section of cable with a new piece and solder/crimp at either end.
Worth checking the state of all the wires on all doors as others may well be in a similar state. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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17th Aug 2022 4:14pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Sweeden Posts: 342 
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Hey mate thank you! Shall report back!
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17th Aug 2022 4:30pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Fingers crossed. If its not that i cant think of much else. Does that door try to lock at all when you use the remote?
As locking with remote or key is all done by the 10AS unit then there really isnt any reason it should behave differently in either case. It is possible that there is a different length of locking pulse from the 10AS alarm unit for remote vs key locking. If that lock is a little stiffer or the motor a bit lazy then that could explain it but other than that i am out of ideas. Cheers Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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17th Aug 2022 6:07pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2000
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Steve, I think by manually the OP means locking the rear passenger door by pressing the interior locking button down, not the rear passenger door looking when using a key in the front drivers door, so I think you are dead right in one or more of the wires being broke.
The only time I have experienced one of the rear passenger doors not locking with the remote but looking with the key is when it’s been very cold and the main starter battery is very low, I guess what happens there is I’m assisting the drivers door actuator which gave more current to the other door actuators to operate. |
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17th Aug 2022 7:02pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4660 
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Sometimes the little actuator yoke goes wonky and it does not have the strength to move the locking mechanism. When you lock it manually by depress the button inside you are doing the work for the actuator. I had one replaced under warranty for this reason. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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17th Aug 2022 7:51pm |
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| JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 335 
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I had this problem on a freelander.
Just 1 door wouldn’t lock through the central locking. Replacing the actuator solved the issue. |
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17th Aug 2022 8:18pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2000
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As a test, while inside the vehicle with the engine running manually actuate the central door locking by pushing the drivers door lock button down, that way you are giving the actuators the most current. Sit in the back of the vehicle with your ear to the faulty door lock when this is done ( you may need assistance ) if the lock actuates or you hear it try but fail it could be sticking mechanism, failing actuator, bad wire connection or part broken wire. If nothing i expect broken wire.
However I expect it’s the very well know problem with the wiring from B pillar to door, so pull back the gater to expose wires and pull on each wire individually and I expect one will come out. Do this with ignition off else will likely short and blow fuse. |
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17th Aug 2022 9:05pm |
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