 | Home > My Defender > Bods 07 110 XS SW |
 
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 840   
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Could you link the screws you used for the floor, please?
I’d like to replace mine and unsure which kit I should buy. This, for example; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370460459076?mk...media=COPY 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS. |
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11th Nov 2022 4:43pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933 
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Top part of the chassis c leaned, treated and with a good splosh of Dinitrol ready for the panel to go back in.
 Click image to enlarge And after a bit of wiggling the B-hoop is in. Bit of a challenge as a one man job but as ever, take your time and if something is in the way, move it rather then try and squeeze it past. I had to remove a front and a rear seat (Diagonally opposite) in order to maneuver it in but it didn't take long in the end. Click image to enlarge It is now bolted to the floor and crossmember supports and the b-pillar. Not drilled the roof holes yet, I think I'll wait until I am ready to fit the external bits before I do that. |
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11th Nov 2022 5:33pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Excellent effort
You will find that with the roll cage and sliders the chassis/body feels much stiffer. You will also be thinking about fitting an uprated rear anti-roll bar and for that I highly recommend the X-Eng X-Deflex kit. If you are still on standard LR suspension you will also shortly be looking to upgrade those as well. The extra weight does compress the dual rated springs quite a bit, or at least they did on Miffy. But... ...I wouldn't be without the roll cage |
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11th Nov 2022 5:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Great time to stick some sound proofing up on the roof before the lining goes back up
It never ends  |
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11th Nov 2022 5:54pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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That is the plan. Trying to identify as many realistic jobs while stuff is off. I have some dodo mat and some closed cell foam for the roof. I'll also run some wires for rear work lights that are yet to be sourced and installed.
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11th Nov 2022 6:00pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Excellent. I will add extra wires for second row (aka the black hole of Calcutta) lighting as well
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11th Nov 2022 6:02pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17463 
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When I first had the headlining out of my DC I extended the wire from the front light back to the second row and fitted a second MUD interior light for the second row. They both work the same way - open any door and both come on, both can be reached from the driver's seat so that they can be manually switched. It has been very useful over the years.
Having MUD interior lights (I have two in the DC and three in my Disco2 really makes you realise just how feeble the normal interior lights are in almost all modern cars. |
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11th Nov 2022 6:24pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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Managed to rope my Brother in to helping me today while my loon of a wife was off swimming in cold lakes
 . Good job I had a second pair of hands, the external cage installation was slightly more tricky and time consuming than I though it would be.
Once all the gripper plates were removed I cleaned up all of the threads to get excess sealant out. Some of them were pretty tight so helpful to ensure easier fitting later. Copper grease on all of the SS bolts, well, all of the bolts in the end actually. C and D posts first. Click image to enlarge Followed by the NS front leg Click image to enlarge At this point I made a boo-boo. I was leaving the bar that links the outer to inner cage and bolts through the roof until last as I was avoiding drilling holes in the roof. This proved to be a frustrating and time consuming mistake later. I bolted everything else in place and was busying myself straightening the cage up and tweaking all the bolts. Then I drilled the holes in the roof and unwrapped the top 'roof connecting rail'. Horrified to see four quite long captive bolts (that go through the roof) which meant that there was no way it was going to be possible to install it with the cage assembled as it was. Arse! Cue undoing all the front bolts and all but removing the entire front section to fit the blasted thing in. Holes wouldn't line up through the roof and into the B-post so some filing and widening was required. Then seal it all up and bolt it all back done again. It was tricky to get the bolts back in the front wings. We go there in the end though. All done now. Just the plastic caps to fit on the nuts and job complete. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge It is quite unobtrusive and does sit quite close to the car. Very pleased. Next job is to refit the snorkel which after dry-fitting does not seem like a major issue. Just need some jubilee clips so I will hopefully sort that tomorrow. For anyone attempting this job in the future, even though I did read the instructions many times I still managed to balls up the sequence. I will assume you wont be as daft as me but just in case, the sequence is: C hoop. D hoop. Roof connecting rail (after drilling holes in roof to line up with b hoop) LH front leg RH front leg Rear top section (that looks like a luggage rack) Side rails (above and below the rear sliding windows) All bolted in loosely until everything is in place then carefully tighten up keeping an eye on alignment with the rest of the vehicle. The bolts do come in labelled bags but that is not much help really. Spacers is a similar guessing game but not beyond the wit of man/woman Next job is the rear recovery point / 2" receiver. |
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13th Nov 2022 8:37pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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2" receiver now fitted. Gave the crossmember a sand and paint over the weekend in preparation, fitted today.
Click image to enlarge It did come with a drop plate but as you can see I have fitted an aluminum shackle instead as a recovery point for now. I also managed to refit the Nak snorkel. It has gone dark on my again so no pics right now. More goodies have arrived. Full set of Gwyn Lewis mud shields and mudflap mounts and I also collected the internal rear storage cages and high level shelf from ADV Overland. |
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14th Nov 2022 5:22pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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Cold starting has been a real problem in the recent weeks. It would crank for 20-odd seconds before firing up and then spew a huge cloud of white smoke.
New glow plugs ordered and fitted on Tuesday. It is a lot milder now so difficult to tell if it has solved the problem but it does start nicely at the moment. Worth a shot for 42 quid
Next job while the weather is milder was the headlining. It needed trimming to fit over the internal b-hoop of the roll cage but I also wanted to put some sound deadening and insulation up first. Without the headlining the roof has been dripping with condensation every morning and the whole car is very damp. Trying to get anything to stick has been impossible. Yesterday's mild weather gave me a couple of hours to get the job done late afternoon with the help of a fan heater to get rid of the last traces of damp on the metal and warm it up a bit so the sound deadening would stick. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge No pics as I ran out of light but headlining also now back in. Another job I managed to fit in after the glow plugs on Tuesday was fitting some of the mud shields. I wanted to make sure it was all clean behind before fitting and also get some waxoyl on. I gave the nooks and crannies and blast with the pressure washer dried it as best I could with an airline, sprayed a bit of water dispersant and then the airline again followed by waxoyl applies with the compressor after warming it and adding a little white spirit to thin it. It applied pretty well and gives a little extra protection for the winter. I'll do a proper job in the spring or summer when it warms up a bit. The mud shield are a fairy straightforward fit. Front ones were very quick to do, front of rear arches took a little longer. I also have a set including removeable mud flaps for the rear but I'll do those another time. Front: Click image to enlarge Rear: Click image to enlarge Now the headlining is back in I can fit the upper storage shelf and rear storage boxes / bins. Then get the dehumidifier out to dry the interior a bit. |
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22nd Dec 2022 10:01am |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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Realised I had not added a pic of the finished article. This was in the middle of a trip to East Devon this weekend.
Click image to enlarge Was a great trip. Can't bring myself to wash it as I don't want to see all the scratches. Some of the lanes very very tight and overall the weekend was wet and scratchy
Not everyone made it out under their own steam 
Click image to enlarge |
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28th Feb 2023 10:16pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6102 
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Looking good. I'll keep an eye out for you (I'm Wiltshire too), might bumb into each other out on the 'plain someday.
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1st Mar 2023 6:17am |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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I have a trip to the pennines in July so been doing some more fettling and prep.
Sounds were a bit poo so bought a Kenwood active sub and mounted that on the back of the cubby. While I was at it I ran the cables in prep for fitting the t max split charge and also added some permanent live power to the front. There is an aux fuse box in the cubby now so I'll run some cable to the rear for usb and 12v for the fridge etc. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Fitted a rear window guard. Not really for security, more to hang stuff off. Bought a MUD MOLLE pouch and fitted that to it. Handy for brew kit and such like. Having bought and sold a couple of roof tents without using them I fancied 9ne for the upcoming trip. I used a small ground tent for the coast to coast a while ago which was OK but soaking wet by the end of the trip. The Oztent I find a bit cumbersome and even though the main tent is up quick it is still a chore to set everything up, camp beds and the like. This turned up on FB: Click image to enlarge A James Baroud Evasion. It had been used as a demo on a camper and never been slept in. Great condition and even still had the instructions in the pocket. For £700 it was a bargain. Then to fitting it to the SD cage. I wanted to mount the Foxwing as well. I sourced a used set of Van Guard roof bars which were the perfect width. I painted up a Set of SD roof tent brackets that had been lying around in the garage for a few years (?!l and a mix of stainless nuts, bits and some of the original roof rack captive bolts got to this point: Click image to enlarge But to give the tent support along its width I needed a spacer to clear the foxwing bracket and bolt heads. I found a commercial catering chopping board on Amazon that was just the right thickness and with a bit of machining with the router and circular saw managed to fashion just the thing which I then ficed to the bars with stainless self tappers. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Just need to lift it all up there now  . Will have to try and get that done before the lad goes back to Yorkshire on Sunday. |
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2nd Jun 2023 12:34pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933
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Final bits of prep ahead of a trip to the Pennines next week.
Roof tent, foxwing and waffle boards on the roof: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I wasn't that happy with having the fridge in the rear. My lashing points didn't really hold it that well and it also took up more space than I liked. So I mounted it in the space vacated by the single rear seat. The had intended to make something out of metal once I got the template and dimensions sorted but this is rock solid so I may just keep it. Perhaps a bit of paint and that will be it. Click image to enlarge Made out of an old bit of 18mm ply I had in the garage. Sits and bolted on the seat fixings at the back and bolts to the rear seatbox upstand. Castor cups screwed to the top that the rubber feet of the Engel fridge sit in perfectly stop the fridge from sliding about so it just needs to be strapped down to the board to hold it firmly. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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9th Jul 2023 7:38pm |
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