 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > dual battery confusion - separate leisure battery? |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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The idea of a separate split charge and battery in a removable box is interesting but does seem to be a bit wasteful of space, particularly in a 90, when it could all be fitted under the passenger seat. You'd also want to be sure that it's properly restrained and ventilated, which may preclude it being buried under your camping gear.
An Anderson socket would work well for that but would be very difficult to also use for a CTEK connection due to the significant differences in the sizes of cable for each. It would be better to install a dedicated socket for the CTEK or use the towing electrics, which is by far the easiest solution. For the split charge system itself, personally I think the big VSR's are perfectly adequate for typical Land Rover use. Yes, you can get slightly more efficient charging from a more sophisticated system but I don't think that benefit outweighs the pronounced difference in cost. VSR's have served countless caravans and campers for years without issue. I've had one in my 110 for nearly four years and it just works. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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12th Apr 2022 8:32pm |
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| Jabberwocky Member Since: 27 Oct 2021 Location: Luxembourg Posts: 223 
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Get a bluetti or jackery type solar generator that can just be sat somewhere charging off a cigarette socket as you drive. You could also mount a dedicated solar panel for it on the roof and run a cable down you where you keep it.
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12th Apr 2022 10:55pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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You know Jabberwocky. That's a damn good idea! Plenty of options on the market too these days.
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12th Apr 2022 11:28pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184  
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I am using a Portable Power Pack from National Luna for occasional trips, this includes a built-in split-charge isolator.
https://www.nationalluna.com/product/porta...-hardware/ It seems to fit your initial requirements, although unfortunately has been recently discontinued as National Luna is now offering more modern versions that supports lithium battery types etc. /Mat |
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13th Apr 2022 7:14am |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 922
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Given that the space is available, mounting a second battery under the seat is a straightforward job, plenty around that will fit.
As for how to connect it, I have used a number of methods and all have worked perfectly well for my needs (12v accessories, fridge, winch). My current setup uses a second alternator connected to the second battery coupled with a relay that can be switched to allow them to be joined if a jump start is required. Previously has a twin battery setup with a T max split charger. Also good. My simplest setup was using a Victron battery joiner (essentially a VSR) which can also take a switch to force a link between batteries if a jump start was needed. I think a second alternator is a it overkill but either of the other two would be just fine for your purposes. Cheap enough if you needed to leave in the car when sold but also easy enough to take out if needed. |
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13th Apr 2022 8:35am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Hi Gasket, Ive got a very similar setup as you propse and happy to show you how it works and the kit of parts needed. Im staffs moorland way.
In short, this is what I would do... 2 x Batteries under the pass seat. Id abandon the idea of having one removable. These are heavy guage cables and you dont want to keep disturbing everything. 1 x Batt VSR again under the seat. It will fit promise! This one is excellent but as you know there are others. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7622/ML-A...2V_DC_500A This will connect the batteries when charging from alternator or from CTEK but when engine is off/not charging it will disconnect and your 'house' loads i.e anything connected to the fuse box below will not be able to discharge your starting battery. The Bluesea VSR has a button to force this connect/disconnect also. 1 x Fuse Box. again these are excellent. Connect this via 100amp cable to the leisure/house battery. https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/blue-sea-fuse-box 1 x CTEK Panel indicator. Connect this to the starter battery. You can connect the crocodile clips of a CTEK to a anderson connector which is what ive been doing until I got this. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?...bkQ9pwGCAk Your going to need a host of other stuff. e.g. Some inline fuses for the high amp feeds e.g. the fuse box above. google mega fuses. Various cable sizes, crimpers, heat shrink, connectors. Grommets where you pass through metal panels Anderson connector. Ive got a bulkhead mount for this and cover. This allows it to come out of the battery seat box and bolt to the front of it for easy connection to jump leads and a air compressor. Rated at 150a iirc and the benefit is that the high amp wires are short and the whole thing is protected by being inside the vehicle. With all this stuff just think about keeping it fairly simple, easily understood and making any wires fused adequately and/or isolatable. happy to chuck some pics up of mine if interested. |
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13th Apr 2022 9:18am |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1428 
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A removable battery box with charging is my project for the week!
I've had a leisure battery in a box for years, just to power a fridge, normally fine for 4/5 days without charging. A planned 2 week trip to Lewis, Harris, Skye requires a way to top it up. I've got a caravan/trailer voltage sensing relay, £10 to £12, Amazon. Was amazed how small it is.  Click image to enlarge Blue Sea fuse box to mount on the main battery mega fuse terminal. Click image to enlarge To connect the 2, I'm using a Fast Plug because there was one in the garage. OK for 60 Amps, available at Halfords. Click image to enlarge When finished, the box will be securely strapped down in whichever vehicle it is being used. |
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13th Apr 2022 10:38am |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
that is some great feedback folks - thank you very much.
Great to hear that there doesn't seem to be a need to go for a fancy DC-DC/B2B system. With the far lower cost of the VSRs, I can afford to go for something from the Redeye or BlueSea catalogue. MikeH/DSC any photos you could share of your installs would be really great to see. |
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13th Apr 2022 6:44pm |
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| DuncanS Member Since: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299 
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This might be food for thought. I have a twin battery tray with a custom box (which I was considering selling commercially) holding the main distribution for my defender. It enables me to have the BlueSea ML-ACR accessible without taking the seat off, and holding the main master fuses for all the auxiliary systems. The interconnecting cables are done in 95mm2 to ensure there is no disparity in load sharing when the batteries are connected for winching etc.
Unfortunately with this being a V1 design, the top line isn't quite at the right angle to match the seatbox but would easily be rectified by someone taking measurements other than me! Within the box itself I also have three additional megafuse holders for the original defender tdci fused main supply and winch and jump start lines, as these won't fit in the midi fuse panel due to size. Also in the box I have planned a double pole cut off switch for ECU cut out & internal alarms. The midi fuse panel currently only has distribution to my rear main aux fusebox on a 35mm cable but I'll have some additional front anderson connectors and things coming off it soon. The ML-ACR has a handy carling switch dash indicator set up which works brilliantly, however sometimes I do find myself wanting for a battery monitor on the leisure battery. Any further queries, just let me know. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge EDIT 2 ADD: Apologies I don't seem to have any completed photos handy, but I can assure you it's a pig to get the 95mm tails into that box, but they do fit with a good flexible cable. I used 5x15mm industrial bus bar to make the fixed links which were also a pain but work really well. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader |
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13th Apr 2022 8:48pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1081  
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95mm2 - wow
You manged to get TWO batteries in there despite the side box? What size and capacity are they? |
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14th Apr 2022 2:01pm |
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| DuncanS Member Since: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299
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This might help. Main starter battery is 76ah and leisure is 80ah. Had the opportunity to take a photo today as I was croc clipping a transfer pump on.
Click image to enlarge North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader |
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14th Apr 2022 5:01pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1081
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15th Apr 2022 8:40am |
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| UtilityTruck Member Since: 09 Jan 2014 Location: Oxford Posts: 463
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If you’re looking for minimal fuss and a system that could be removed when you don’t need it, or even used away from the vehicle, Ecoflow are worth a look https://www.ecoflow.com/
I’ve used one at work in a camper, they come in various capacities and give you the ability to charge USB devices or run mains equipment. Some even have the possibility to add solar charging. It’ll charge on Mains or from the accessory socket while you drive. Click image to enlarge 2014 Keswick Utility 2.2 |
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17th Apr 2022 10:20pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881  
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Funnily enough i was having the same problem. I wanted a high quality dual battery for my 90 that i could remove. I found all these chinese plastic all in one boxes are over priced, slow charging and fairly naff. I also found with most review videos showed they couldnt even meet their output ratings or charge time. Also many lacked the features i wanted, which were, possibilities of high current outputs to run a compressor for example, no bluetooth, also none of them are lithium phosphate so their battery chemisty only lasts around 500 charge cycles. Many lithium phosphate batteries are rated for 4000 charge cycles and some even 8000 cycles.
This lead me to build my own system. Im using a battery with 100ah/1280wh capacity, a 4000 cycle charge rating, bluetooth capable, with a max current draw of 100amp and a max charge current of 50 amps with a 5 year warranty. Im using victron dc-dc and solar chargers which also have bluetooth and a 5 year warranty. I can charge from 0-80% from the car alone in a touch over 4 hours. I can in theory have another 200-300w (10-15amps) of solar charging at the same timeas that to reduce times further and i also have a 20a mains charger that can charge me from 0-80% in 4 hours too. I made it all by hand but have thought the idea will appeal to others so have been making the cad drawings to get a quote for having the panels laser cut and eventually would like to make a full aluminium version to go along side this version. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Last edited by LandymanStefan on 19th Apr 2022 3:37pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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19th Apr 2022 3:00pm |
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