↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Wheels & Tyres > Tyres rubbing on full lock
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
Cubflyer



Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 278

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Arles Blue
Tyres rubbing on full lock
Hi folk

Got a 300 Tdi Defender 90 fitted with Mitchelin Latitude 235/85/R16's and I've noticed a rubbing/grating sound on full lock. Just checked the tyres and they are just rubbing on the Radius arms.

I'm presuming I need to fit spacers to stop this issue (or change the tyres or don't apply full lock Whistle ).

All comments greatfully received including best makes / sizes / suppliers and results etc

Many thanks from a very sunny warm Norfolk.

John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994)
2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994)
Post #947100 26th Mar 2022 1:22pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 809

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
No need for spacers, new tyres or not turning the steering as far. Simply adjust the lock stops at the front of the steering knuckle. 19mm nut and bolt that also holds on the brake shield. The O/S bolt alters the N/S clearance and vice versa.

You will loose a tiny bit of steering angle but you only need a mm or two of clearance so don't overdo it.
Post #947102 26th Mar 2022 1:39pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 809

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
Just to add, the easiest way to do this is to jack up the front axle and drop it into stands then with the keys in the ignition to release the steering lock you can pull the wheels from lock to lock by hand with the engine off which speeds up the job enormously.
The bolt is threaded through the steering knuckle with a locknut on the back that also holds the shield Thumbs Up
Post #947103 26th Mar 2022 1:44pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Cubflyer



Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 278

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Arles Blue
Hi ... Thanks for your prompt reply Thumbs Up

Just looked underneath, I presume it's this bolt (seen from the front) I adjust once I've slackened off the lock nut.


Click image to enlarge


Not sure if it will be seized on a 25 year old girl but won't know till I've put some WD on and tried Exclamation

Thanks again

John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994)
2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994)
Post #947106 26th Mar 2022 2:30pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
That's the one. Remember to loosen the lock nut first. Use lots of penetrateing oil over a number of days. Try a loose/tight/loose/repeat action to try and brake the rust. As it starts to move add more penetrating oil!
Post #947119 26th Mar 2022 4:24pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2010

United Kingdom 
^^^^^^^^^

Note a lot of people use WD40 thinking it’s a penetrating oil, unfortunately it’s not, where as plusgas is and easy available. Even a few drops of diesel is better than WD40 for freeing up nuts and bolts.
Post #947122 26th Mar 2022 4:47pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Personally, at the moment, I use plusgas because of recommendations. However, I have just ordered some acetone as I have some automatic transmission fluid (used to have a auto RRC) and I am going to try the 50/50 acetone/ATF mix.

I must admit that heat is my preferred method, but not with seals and the like nearby. I have just refurbished my swivel pin housing and one had a broken steering stop bolt in it. I cleaned the housing using electrolysis then applied heat to the housing before trying to remove the screw. I managed to get the screw out by unscrewing via the locknut, which was seized to the screw thankfully!
Post #947127 26th Mar 2022 5:22pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 184

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
John, from you picture, I believe you are missing the lock stop bracket (part number TAU100170).
The bolt that you are trying to adjust is supposed to contact the lock stop bracket at full lock, and that is not happening in your case Rolling Eyes
Somebody has had the swivel ball out at some point on your truck, and didn't bother to put the bracket back when reassembling.

/Mat
Post #947132 26th Mar 2022 5:55pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Matt, I am not sure that all of the Defenders were produced with the plate you are referring to. I would be happy for someone to confirm or correct this.
Post #947135 26th Mar 2022 6:27pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17390

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Correct, some have them, some don't. I've never figured the rationale.
Post #947137 26th Mar 2022 7:06pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 184

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Ah, well, I have learned something new again today then. Ignore my previous post then if not relevant.
/Mat
Post #947138 26th Mar 2022 7:29pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Cubflyer



Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 278

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Arles Blue
Hi guys ... Must admit I thought from previous pictures I was puzzled when I looked underneath I didn't see a form of "Striker plate" for the bolt head.

They are not expensive .. so is it worth fitting them or not ? ... comments welcomed as always.

Thanks

John 2010 Defender 90 300Tdi CW (White/1994)
2021 Defender 90 300Tdi SW (Blue/1994)
Post #947151 26th Mar 2022 10:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
John, having just done my swivels I was in a similar predicament. I don't like the thought of the bolt just striking the flange of the swivel ball and was going to get some. However I had reassembled them and the bolts seem to be the correct length for the thickness of the swivel ball and axle case together and could not see a part number for a longer bolt, so decided to leave it.

If you do get these could you measure the thickness of them and post it up here as I would be interested to know.

I hope you're bolt frees up.and if it does and it will come out fully (I can't remember if there is enough room to take it out with the swivel pin housing fitted) perhaps it may be worth giving it a coat of antiseize grease? I know I really wasn't looking forward to getting the broken one out of mine but managed it as I had swivel assembly in bits.

Some images of what I had to deal with! I am sure yours won't be this bad, but you can understand why I needed heat!


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #947156 27th Mar 2022 3:41am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 184

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
All 7 swivel to axle bolts have the same length. Either you use washers or you use the lock stop bracket as a washer. But not the bracket + washer. Simple.

/Mat


Click image to enlarge


Last edited by MatLandy on 27th Mar 2022 5:26pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #947162 27th Mar 2022 7:43am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 809

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
Is it done yet?

Bolts should be removed and reassembled with plenty of grease. Be careful not to get your lubricant/spray releasing oil of choice on the brakes.

I set mine quite close so still get an occasional rub, mostly when reversing as this pushes the axle over slightly, but nothing to worry about if you want to keep the best turning circle possible. If it is bad or continuous it should be an MOT fail as classed as wheels fouling chassis/bodywork I think.
Post #947174 27th Mar 2022 11:07am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums