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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Adjusting door locks/catch
I decided in a moment of madness to try and adjust the 2nd row passenger door lock/catch as it was dragging a little on the catch.
A while later I am still at it, and no real improvement I have done away with the white shims and seems a little better but the door needs a good hard close to make the door lock.
Without the door seal the door closes a lot easier and I was wondering could the door seal be part of the issue?
I have adjusted the door hinges to make the door sit more in line with the front passenger door and this I think helped but still, the door needs a good hard close to make the door shut.

New door catch?
New door lock?
New door seal?
All three?

The front door and the drivers 2nd row door close OK just the 2nd row door is a PITA.

What am I missing?
The door hinges have no noticeable play/movement. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #946910 24th Mar 2022 6:52pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2639

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Its still worth taking the door card off and then loosen the nuts holding the hinge.

It will drop a little, then lift up the door then retighten the nuts. This might take a couple of goes to get bang on.

I think that is your issue. It was the cure for one of my doors (90), at first i was convinced it was the hinge to bulkhead that was at fault.

At a guess for me at least it was just many years of putting weight on the door to get in an out.

Hope that helps
Post #946916 24th Mar 2022 8:18pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers Mark. I did alter at the B pillar fixings. Maybe another dabble is in order. I have ordered a new striker catch plate. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #946975 25th Mar 2022 10:24am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
Usually a lazy catch, they wont click over into the second latch position unless nslammed, also is there any wear on the nylon sleeve of the striker?
Post #946983 25th Mar 2022 11:17am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Second what Linds says.

When I have had problems with the second row doors (either not closing or not opening) it has often been down to either the plastic striker sleeve being broken or bent out of shape or the door lock latch becoming lazy with thickening grease.

I usually end up working the latch back and forth with a screwdriver whilst spraying copious quantities of WD40 at the latch pivot point to work the thick grease out. Then once free aligning the latch and striker, then using a light oil to lubricate the latch.

As for the door seal, if it is cold outside then it can become less yielding and cause problems with closing. It could be that you need a spacer at the hinge end so the door seals but does not over compress the seal.

The whole thing is a finicky old business. Rolling Eyes
Post #946987 25th Mar 2022 11:50am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers all. I am thinking new door lock time. Replacing the drivers side door lock helped with door being a pain.
Door seals, it was a warm day, so hopefully not that. But maybe new door seals will be required.

Door lock and striker plate first. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #947026 25th Mar 2022 6:07pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
A bit further on. Ordered a new door lock and new striker catch.
Fitted the new parts. Not happy.
It felt like the striker was rubbing/dragging on the white plastic insert inside the door lock.

So I decided it was time to take the file to the striker. I smoothed off the best I could the first round section of the striker (the bit were the pin goes through with the nylon collar) and made this as flat as I could. This helped a bit and reduced the drag when opening/closing the door.

Then I removed the door seal and found the door opened and closed much better, but still not out the woods.

What I did notice was, the top of the door frame when closed, sat past the c pillar. Not sure if this is normal or not, but I applied a little pressure and bent the top of the door out a wee bit.

Reattached the door rubber and tried again this time the door wouldnt shut. Thinking what now, then I noticed the door rubber was'nt gripping the door frame and had sagged, and jamming in the door on the lock side.

A little smear of grease on the lock mechanism also helped.

I was going to re-adjust the door hinges but the hex head stainless bolts holding the hinges in place started to round off. So I stopped. Plus I was getting peckish and tea was in the oven.

And thats were that is upto for now. Lets see how the door goes over the weekend.

The amount of rust internal to the door isnt helping. (bottom of the door frame, along the middle support, up behind the lock.....

New door required there! Sad Never ending! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #948745 9th Apr 2022 7:49am
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