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Namnedaz



Member Since: 14 Apr 2021
Location: Hengoed
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Oil leaks... Where to start!
I bought a cat n 2.4 tdci pickup with about 60k on the clock and as expected my drive is covered in oil. I have the wings, grill, intercooler and radiator off so I'm taking the opportunity to give the chassis a good going over and to fit new bushes but think this would be a good time to have a go at the oil leaks. The engine is covered as is the bottom of the gearbox and it looks like the whole engine is protecting itself against rust while I take forever getting her going. I'm guessing I have an injector problem as it went limp on me intermittently so I was wondering what the experienced puma guys think would be my best course of action and what seals and gaskets I could replace with the engine in situ or would I be better off taking the engine out and stripping it right down. Thanks upfront for any advice.
Post #941732 8th Feb 2022 10:55pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
Would be useful if you could post some pictures of it underneath, most likely then some of us on here can help identify the issues better that way.

Also it’d be useful if you have an OBD2 reader so you can check for fault codes if any are present, that’ll help you identify many issues as well. Though you may have this already.

Regards performance going limp, check the turbo actuator.
Remove the circlip carefully from the EA end o the linage pivot and check and operate the turbo east gate by gently moving it up and down. If it’s free it’ll be fine but if sticky lightly lubricator the linage and wastegate arm and then reconnect to the EA pivot.
Again, lubricate the pivot points it may not be injectors at all and is worth checking.
I mention this as this is something I had recently, if it is this it’s typically engine running fine and smooth but just no boost or turbo and very poor acceleration.
Dash light won’t always come on, it didn’t on mine but did log a DTC.


It’s free to check, so thought I’d mention it. Changing the VCV is another relatively easy job to do at home and cheap too.

Often the cheapest items can be at fault, best to start with those before anything else.
Cleaning the MAP and MAF sensors is also well worth it.
Or if really old, just replace and will save you even having to bother.

May be worth checking the condition of the sump oil pan too and it’s seal.

Just a few things to think about. Thumbs Up No Guts, No Glory.
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Post #941734 8th Feb 2022 11:29pm
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Silver Back



Member Since: 11 Jun 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 407

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green
Give the sump pan itself a gentle prod. They can rot out and allow oil to seep through. Relatively cheap to replace.

Good luck.
Post #941746 9th Feb 2022 8:41am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3425

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
If the oil leak has been there for a while, then first give it a good wash then let the engine run for a minute or so and investigate, as oil migrates and would be hard to find the source point/s. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #941751 9th Feb 2022 9:33am
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Namnedaz



Member Since: 14 Apr 2021
Location: Hengoed
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Thanks for advice, plenty of tips but I think I need to go with dinnus suggestion first and give it a good clean and get it running to hopefully point me in the right direction, trouble is I have the rad off and changed the diesel filter so its not running at the mo but I will get some pics in case there could be something obvious. The sump looks good to me but I will give it a poke.
Post #941866 9th Feb 2022 10:00pm
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Namnedaz



Member Since: 14 Apr 2021
Location: Hengoed
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Not sure if this helps identify the culprit/s
Post #942061 11th Feb 2022 11:40am
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