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| mafiekazen Member Since: 20 Apr 2022 Location: Rotterdam Posts: 10   
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Hi Guys,
This may be a long shot, but it its worth the try. I’ve bought a defender 110 Td5 with a blown head gasket. Replaced the head gasket myself and converted the def to a poptop camper in the meantime. The engine didn’t run that much when I bought it because of the blown gasket so I don’t know if this rattling sound was already in the motor. when I have a valid licence plate I want to bring her to a workshop to check up on the engine. Maybe you guys know what it is? Engine runs pretty good, but the rattling sound is pretty annoying. I hope you can hear what i mean https://youtu.be/pVMW_h8B3wY This is her btw 
 Click image to enlarge |
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20th Apr 2022 7:02am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5697 
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Not grea5 sound but timing chain rattle???
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20th Apr 2022 7:29am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 
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It be the timing chain, or more likely the hydraulic adjuster. But, it sounds more like the hydraulic valve adjusters haven't adjusted properly. Things sound loose up top. Did you replace them when you did the head change, or just swap them over? When I took the adjusters out of Miffy last year two of them had bits of silicone in the oil ports. Damn stuff always finds its way to the smallest places, a bit like blood clots...
Either that or the injector adjustment is wrong or indeed both of the above. When the head gasket went did the coolant and oil mix? Just wondering if it might be worth flushing both the oil and the coolant now that everything is back together. Clear any small passageways, etc. |
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20th Apr 2022 8:05am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Well that is a good place to start then. When you fitted the chain tensioner did you replace the copper washer? Was it the same thickness as the original one? The reason for asking is the oil way is very very tight to the washer. Is it possible this oil way is not lining up with its equivalent in the head and in doing so there is no oil pressure to move the adjuster?
Actually this does bring up the root question. Do you have oil pressure? When rebuilding the engine did you check the pressure relief valve in the sump? This can jam open, meaning limited or no oil pressure. I know because this happened to Miffy. It was a grain of dirt that wedged in the valve when open and it did not close properly again. Oil pressure-wise at idle the engine had 0 pressure and needed RPMs to provide any pressure at all. |
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20th Apr 2022 9:09am |
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| mafiekazen Member Since: 20 Apr 2022 Location: Rotterdam Posts: 10
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Thanks for the replies mate, i will start with taking the tensionerbolt out and will replace the copper ring. i cant remember replacing it, i know a copper ring should only be used once.
Maybe the tensioner is stuck or anything like that. Did you also found it very hard to get it on? |
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20th Apr 2022 9:16am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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No, no trouble at all. It screwed in and torqued up, but with a new copper washer.
I would definitely advise you check the oil pressure though, if anything for peace of mind. |
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20th Apr 2022 10:10am |
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| mafiekazen Member Since: 20 Apr 2022 Location: Rotterdam Posts: 10
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When i screwed it in, i had a few mills left and the bolt was completely stuck. When I started the engine the oil was rushing out so I believe there is oil pressure.
The tension bolt wasn’t replaced by a new one or anything but I believe there are two types of tensioners, a 10P and a 15P one. Maybe someone replaced the head with a 15P head and reused the 10P tension bolt. |
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20th Apr 2022 10:33am |
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| mafiekazen Member Since: 20 Apr 2022 Location: Rotterdam Posts: 10
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Fixed it!
So last weekend I took the cover off and didn’t notice anything strange, the chain was tensioned. So I took the tensioner bolt off and as suspected the copper washer was pretty flat. I also noticed some damage on the underside of the bolt (the part where the copper washer is) so I put it on the lathe to make it nice and flat again. Replaced the washer and put it back in with 55 nm force on it… Engines started.. noise was gone! So I’m a happy man.. unfortunately oil gushed out pretty hard so turned the engine off right away. I decided to give the bolt some more force for a tighter fix. Now the noise was gone and wasn’t leaking oil anymore. I took the car for a testdrive and after some minutes the rattle came back very slightly. So what now.. bolt is in too tight again. I took the bolt back out again. And replaced it with two 1.5 mm copper washers. I gave it 55 nm again and started the engine and… no leaks and no rattle noise! Now I’m a happy man, thanks for the help guys Click image to enlarge |
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25th Apr 2022 6:51am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Brilliant. Well done that man
 and for perservering with it |
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25th Apr 2022 9:00am |
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