 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > striker post wall cracks |
 
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866   
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I presume you have this striker arrangement?
 Click image to enlarge If so, you may have the shim(s) labelled 3 (part no. MWC3148) already fitted to adjust the striker position. Providing the aluminium you plan to fix to the tub in this location is equal to the current thickness of shims then you shouldn't have any issues with striker engagement. Note that it can be quite tricky to realign the striker once removed so it would be worth marking some reference points if you can. If you don't have any shims fitted currently, a plate bonded to the rear of the panel in question is your only real option as adjusting the thickness of the polymer spacer block (LR050856) may introduce clearance issues. It is also a neater solution in my opinion. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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4th Jan 2022 10:05am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 489
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YRM do repair panels for this if they are bonded onto the front face they make a strong repair
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4th Jan 2022 10:34am |
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| jimbo55 Member Since: 15 Jul 2020 Location: Midlands Posts: 400
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I bonded and riveted a piece of aluminium to the rear as Shroppy mentioned. I did have to cut and bolt the brace as it wouldn’t fit properly but if you use thin enough material it should be fine. I used 3 or 4mm as it was what I had lying around and it is a bit overkill
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4th Jan 2022 12:36pm |
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| GRU54 Member Since: 03 Oct 2021 Location: Nashville Posts: 26  
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Yes Shroppy, this looks like mine. Someone previously tried to put a plate behind using rivets. Iam not sure if I should drill all the rivets out and replace another plate behind, plus put a thin plate in front. I dont know how much tolerence the door jam has (space wise) that I wouldnt have to shim down the plastic spacer on the striker complicating things. Ideally a thin plate in front would cover the cracks, then drill the rivets out, put bolts through where the rivet holes were, and re mount the striker.
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4th Jan 2022 6:57pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 632 
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The best repair solution is - eBay item eBay Item No. 294078304005
This damage is always caused by the plastic failing in the door striker so the door doesn’t latch correctly when shut so people slam the door harder to get it to shut, stressing the door pillar and usually the door too. |
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4th Jan 2022 7:38pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1799  
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Oldowner-that's neat!
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4th Jan 2022 7:45pm |
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| GRU54 Member Since: 03 Oct 2021 Location: Nashville Posts: 26
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another question, about using metal plates, should one use aluminum ? Will using stainless steel create a rusting process? thanks
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4th Jan 2022 10:48pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866
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That is a very neat solution Oldowner!
GRU54 - Yes, use aluminium or you run the risk of galvanic corrosion. At a push you could use galvanised sheet and a suitable isolator - rubber, Duralac or similar. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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5th Jan 2022 7:16am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2652  
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Second for that. I have fitted one to the passenger side. Not for the frame cracking, but two years ago when I had the winter door not shutting when cold. From the inside I could see the latch section flexing. This did the job. |
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5th Jan 2022 7:57am |
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| GRU54 Member Since: 03 Oct 2021 Location: Nashville Posts: 26
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thanks all for the help. When done Ill post some pics.
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5th Jan 2022 6:28pm |
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| Moneypit Member Since: 27 Feb 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 271 
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I have replaced the damaged aluminium with YRM sections fitted with a structural bond used in modern cars. I bought the replacement repair strikers and and coated the inner block face with Belzona to isolate the metals and stop any bi-metallic reaction |
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5th Jan 2022 9:41pm |
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| GRU54 Member Since: 03 Oct 2021 Location: Nashville Posts: 26
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Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge [/img] |
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15th Jan 2022 1:39am |
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| GRU54 Member Since: 03 Oct 2021 Location: Nashville Posts: 26
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I finally figured out that I needed to try to repair myself. Used 1/8in steel plate which is easily cut with hand held grinder blade. used cardboard template to trace unto to metal place to cut out the pattern. Decided to use stainless 1/4in bolts to clear the thickness of the new outer plate, the middle aluminum , and an old plate that someone else tried to use years ago. (I had to drill out all the old rivets). I painted the steel after priming. Drilled the holes that I needed after tracing them from the original rivet holes. The door does close but until I replace the door hinges I dont want to make further adjustments with the striker.
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15th Jan 2022 1:47am |
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| GRU54 Member Since: 03 Oct 2021 Location: Nashville Posts: 26
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Now with my fancy fix neither door wants to close! I cant believe the 1/8 in thickness of the outer metal would make that much difference. Any ideas? Now I wish I had just put the place on the inside (behind) the door striker wall and use the epoxy in the front around the striker plate. Money pit do you have any pics of your finished striker plate area?
thanks |
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17th Jan 2022 11:38pm |
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