 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Front crankshaft seal |
 
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| digger2 Member Since: 28 Jul 2012 Location: west yorkshire Posts: 25  
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you only need the alignment tool if you are removing the front timing chain cover. the seal tool is just to knock it in . try a ford dealers they do loads on transits.
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2nd Nov 2013 5:57pm |
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| Phoenix90 Member Since: 04 Mar 2012 Location: Cornwall Posts: 377 
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Thanks, does that mean the timing chain cover doesn't need to be removed to do this job? I always assumed it did?
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3rd Nov 2013 11:48pm |
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| Porny Site Sponsor Member Since: 31 Aug 2009 Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands Posts: 809 
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Nope... done with cover still on the engine.
The crank seal is a twist fit, it doesn't knock in. It twists and locks..... Anti clockwise to remove, clockwise to fit. Much easier with the proper tool. You only need the alignment tool if you are fitting a new front cover (LR recommend not reusing the front covers - as get bent when removing if heavy handed). Remove the crank damper, remove seal, clean, fit new seal, and refit damper with new bolts (and I think they are 45nm + 90 degrees). This is the alignment tool...  Click image to enlarge[/URL] And this photo shows the new front cover and seal... you can see how it goes in and then twists. Click image to enlarge[/URL] Ian Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers. www.IRBdevelopments.com www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments www.integrated316.com www.facebook.com/integrated316 |
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5th Nov 2013 9:12am |
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| Phoenix90 Member Since: 04 Mar 2012 Location: Cornwall Posts: 377
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That's great, thanks Ian.
I'll report back how it goes. |
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5th Nov 2013 11:55pm |
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| theflyingscotchman Member Since: 19 Feb 2014 Location: Lower Austria Posts: 3  
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Hi!
My first post and you guess - another Landrover-rookie experiencig troubles. A couple of months ago the engine startet to leak oil. The garage diagnosed faulty crankshaft seals. Both seals rear + front including front cover were replaced. To no or very little effect. After the last repair the rear seal startet to leak again after about 150 km. The car is now back to the garage again. According to the mechanic the problem is that they can not locate the leak within the engine. Apparently it is not the crankseal. Frontcover is still leaking but less then before. Right now the engine is taken apart and the Garage is trying to locate the problem. The engine is now on itīs third rear and second front crankseal. Unfortunately it looks like neither the garage nor LR-Austria seems to haven an idea whats wrong. My question is if there are any known probelms (internal oil leaks) with the 2.2tdci engine. It is a MY 2012 Defender with only about 13000km on the clock. Fortunately itīs still under warranty. Any help would be appreciated! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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19th Feb 2014 1:56pm |
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| Natlas Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 460 
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Hi Flying Scotsman,
I'm not 100% certain but I think the small hole in the housing in your first pic is the clutch breather outlet, mine leaks a tiny bit from there but I have considered it normal. I don't get anything like the build up your pic shows though. Cheers, John. 2.2 90 XS 88" Series One Old Norton 
Minerva |
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19th Feb 2014 9:26pm |
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| TC909 Member Since: 27 Jul 2021 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 34
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Dragging this one up, but not much info about.
Has anyone done this successfully with the rad and front end in place? Thanks |
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3rd Jan 2022 8:39pm |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 213  
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Fairly easy to do and can be done with radiator in place as there is a lot of room between the radiator and engine block courtesy of the puma engine being placed so far back in the engine bay.
1. Remove fan shroud. 2. Remove fan. This requires the fan pulley to be held in place for which there is a special tool but one can be made up from some scrap wood and bolts or dowels. Click image to enlarge 3. Remove serpentine belt (1/2 inch square drive). 4. Remove crank pulley (3 x bolts). These are tight. Either use special tool to hold the pulley or put car in gear (5th), handbrake on, have an assistant put their foot on the brakes (or use a block of wood jammed between the seat base and the pedal). 5. Clean area around seal. 6. Remove seal. It's a bayonet style fitting; turn anticlockwise and pull out. This also requires a special tool but again scrap wood and some bolts do the job just as well. (yes the bench needs a clean). Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 7. Install is reverse of removal sequence. Note: - New seals come with a throw away alignment tool. - Crank pulley will require new bolts as they are torque to yield and old ones shouldn't be reused. Workshop manual states "Stage 1 torque to 45NM, Stage 2 tighten a further 120 degrees". |
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4th Jan 2022 9:02am |
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| TC909 Member Since: 27 Jul 2021 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 34
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Great info, thanks
If the cover seal needs to be replaced, can this be done with the front end still in place? |
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6th Jan 2022 9:20am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 213
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Not yet done the front cover, but I can't see why it can't be done with front end (radiator / intercooler etc in place). Hopefully someone else can confirm either way.
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6th Jan 2022 11:23am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782  
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I did the timing chain in the summer, trying to remember - its an age thing!!
Took the fan housing out as I wanted good access to the steering box to check some things, IIRC you have to remove the cast iron pulley mounting 'lump' to access the top bolts of the cover, this means slackening out of the way the alternator and water pump, nothing major just a bloody fiddle! HTH Keith |
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6th Jan 2022 6:18pm |
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