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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804   
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To my knowledge, my front discs have never been changed. Just wondering if there is a point at which people might do it, regardless of mileage. I’m at 90k in a 2011 2.4. I’m asking as I’m about to change pads (going Ferodo nothing green or yellow) and do brake lines as well. Does it make sense to pop new discs on at the same time even if they seem fine? Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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26th Oct 2021 6:03am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3394  
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As above and no brake judder. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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26th Oct 2021 7:33am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17307  
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Yes, when they are approaching the minimum thickness! No point doing it earlier unless they warp or otherwise become defective. The only exception would be if you're about to fit new pads and the wear on the disks means that the new pads are likely to outlast the disks, then it might be sensible to replace disks and pads at the same time (otherwise you'll in theory be binning part-worn pads when you change the disks). I think I am on my third set of front disks at 255k miles. |
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26th Oct 2021 8:03am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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Thank you all. Will measure and take a view. They do feel very soft these days. Very little feel, and an (almost) emergency stop on the motorway last week pulled hard right, so I’m wanting to look at the whole system in one go. As I said, almost 90k in and with half of that in the Alps doing heavy downhill braking, for the sake of 150€ and as mentioned by BW, avoiding doing the job twice and throwing the next set of pads away before they’re done, I might bite the bullet. Unless they’re impressively unworn of course. Can’t believe it though.
If I do, any thoughts on the brand? I’m going Ferodo or Mintex pads, have a set of Goodridge braided lines to pop on, so what thoughts on the rotors? OE? If so, what was OE, Ferodo? If not, what else? Terrafirma? Brembo? Ta.  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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26th Oct 2021 8:33pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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I have LOF road spec pads and discs all round and can lock up all four wheels if I hit the pedal hard enough. Pretty impressed with Lukes stuff, I would have gone power spec on retrospec though as now im going to be towing more.
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26th Oct 2021 8:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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LOF does excellent gear and Luke is a Gent
I have EBC front discs (vented drilled grooved) and Britpart rear discs (solid drilled grooved) mated to Brembo pads all round. Also running DOT 5.1 fluid and braided lines. It is a super setup and pretty much what LOF are offering with their PowerSpec brake kit. The discs are now 5 years or so old and I have just replaced the pads. No warping and great braking. The pulling to one side under braking is probably stuck pistons in the caliper (opposite side to the direction of the pull), so be aware if you are changing the discs, pads, lines and fluid you may need at least two front callipers as well. |
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26th Oct 2021 9:03pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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I went with new front callipers on mine as after 150k they looked like boat anchors
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26th Oct 2021 9:32pm |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 796 
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Soft pedal and pulling to one side is highly unlikely to be due to discs. Soft pedal could be naff pads, tired brake fluid or contaminated pads. Pulling to one side will almost definitely be worn suspension bushes. Changing discs that are clean and not worn close to minimum thickness is just a waste and madness. |
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26th Oct 2021 11:01pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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Thanks Old Skool. I do think the pull might be a tired damper. And as for dampness, agreed, fluid, pads, lines etc. Hence the plan to change. I’ll take a look this weekend and keep you all posted. I’m sure you’re suitably enthralled.
 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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27th Oct 2021 7:05am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17307
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A soft pedal is also commonly caused by a stuck piston or pistons on one side of one or more calipers and is the result of the disk flexing towards the unsupported stuck side when the brakes are applied. If this is happening on both sides at the same end the vehicle should still pull up straight, but the brakes will feel fairly ineffective, but if one side only the vehicle will pull away from the affected side under braking. The condition gets progressively worse as the pads wear thereby increasing the amount of flex.
Defender calipers seem fairly prone to this and as a result, since they aren't particularly expensive, I usually changes them every three years or so (which on my case is 75k to100k miles), which generally coincides with a disk change. |
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27th Oct 2021 7:38am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
As minimum thickness stamped on outer edge of the disc and be hard to read in year post fitting and not all OEM disc have the same min thickness as JLR
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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27th Oct 2021 8:43am |
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