↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fittings for chequerplate
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Fittings for chequerplate
Hi all,

Looking to fit some chequerplate to the wing tops of the 90.

Are there any pros or cons with the various fittings. I assume they come as standard with rivets, but does installing rivnuts work any better, or simply bolts with nuts on the underside?

I will be prepping and coating the plate in Raptor to match the grill, side steps and rear bumperettes and also for longevity, as the parts I have done so far, several years down the line are as good as the day I did them.

Any advice appreciated before I start drilling and make the wrong decision! Bow down

I will probably go for the Mammoth sets as these look to be the best and have a better edge/shape?

Cheers all.
Post #927050 25th Oct 2021 10:47am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
iforland



Member Since: 27 Mar 2021
Location: redditch
Posts: 17
United Kingdom 1986 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Arles Blue
mine had checkplate as fitted by Land Rover and they were all rivnuts, looks like they are stainless steel as they have no rust....

However, I still have serious Aluminium corrosion around the rivnuts, to the point where a couple of the fittings aren't secured anymore.
Post #927054 25th Oct 2021 11:30am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Thank you.

Would aluminium rivnuts be any good then as opposed to stainless?
Post #927055 25th Oct 2021 11:39am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2617
England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
My wing top are Mammoth, and yes the look and finish is very good.

Been on the 90 or nearly eleven and a half years now, only change a few years back was that I had then anodised black.

I can’t remember if they come standard with the neoprene backing to act as a sandwich between the wing and the protector.

If not you can buy it by the sheet off eBay, get the adhesive backed version.

My riv nuts are stainless. Just let the paint have time to dry after drilling the hole before setting the riv nuts.

I take mine off every couple of years to clean away any dirt that always find a way there.

I also swapped the original stainless fittings for black versions.

Thumbs Up
Post #927058 25th Oct 2021 12:13pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Excellent, thank you.

I have seen them with the rubber gaskets, and I was going to consider putting the self expanding foam tape all around the edge to finish off. I did this with the gap between the chequerplate on the sils and the body and it worked a treat, filled the 2mm-ish gap and looks spot on, result can be seen here

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic73542.html

So for now it looks like the rivnut route will be best, easier for any future cleaning/resto etc.

Cheers Thumbs Up
Post #927060 25th Oct 2021 12:23pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
iforland



Member Since: 27 Mar 2021
Location: redditch
Posts: 17
United Kingdom 1986 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Arles Blue
My originals also come with the black waterproof foam backing, which is good.

Agree that if LR had painted after drilling holes that there might be less corrosion...but you could say the same for the tub cappings, re-enforcing plates etc. none of which appear to have anything other than a primer coating on the underside!!
Post #927061 25th Oct 2021 12:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3394
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Why not only glue? Fake screw heads if the checker plate is predrilled for rivets. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #927066 25th Oct 2021 1:48pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Hi,

Not sure about glueing it on, would make a heck of a mess on the surface and not ideal for taking off to rufurb in the future?
Post #927067 25th Oct 2021 1:58pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3394
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Agree that taking them off is more difficult if glued, but you will not end up with holes that need to cover up if you decide to remove permanently. You will have to repaint though.

If you go for screw, washer and nut combination, check that you can reach to get the washer and nut in.

If drilling, ensure that you do not go through into whatever is beneath the wing, such as windscreen washer bottle. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #927068 25th Oct 2021 2:15pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up
Post #927069 25th Oct 2021 2:20pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 772
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I have just fitted some Mammouth ones - came with c/sunk hex head bolts, stainless washers and nylon nuts. Made a couple of gaskets out of 1mm neoprene. Rgds.

Chris
Post #927072 25th Oct 2021 3:04pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Hi Chris,

Thank you. I have ordered a set of Mammoth ones, so I wil see what they come with and take it from there.

Many thanks for the help. Thumbs Up
Post #927073 25th Oct 2021 3:08pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
gcc130



Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 733
Mammoth supply the neoprene gaskets separately but I think their chequerplate comes with countersunk bolts and fixings
Post #927088 25th Oct 2021 5:45pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ChrisDefender



Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Midlands
Posts: 453
United Kingdom 
Hi,

Yep; I ordered the gaskets too so hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and I can take it form there. Many thanks for the advice.

Cheers
Post #927152 26th Oct 2021 7:40am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324
United Kingdom 
If I were doing it from scratch, I'd use aluminium rivnuts so that they're compatible with the wing and then apply an appropriate barrier paste to the stainless bolts - Duralac or similar. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #927159 26th Oct 2021 8:05am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
<  Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums