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pilsburypie

Member Since: 19 Jul 2021
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 176

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey

Exmoor trim carpet fitted. Thoughts and a question

I purchased the premium exmoor trim carpet set for my 110sw some time ago. A hefty lead time of about 10 weeks, then sat in my garage for another 5 as I plucked up the motivation to fit. With the sound deadening to do as well, I was dreading the extensive time needed.

All done now and I’m very pleased. Excellent quality, thick, hefty and a good fit with limited tinkering. Here are some thoughts for anyone considering doing

Sound deadening: I bought the cheaper Noico stuff off Amazon. Much cheaper than the premium ones and on my research appears very similar. Heavy, 2mm self adhesive butyl rubber and foil faced. Also got some 3mm topper self adhesive foam for the floors.
Went down well. Very sticky and moulds easily to panels. Cuts well but that foil top has sharp edges. Got loads of fine slices on my finger tips from pressing into place. Also used a roller to press down hard.
Definitely helps deaden a panel. The 3mm foam topper was really easy to install. Only used on the floors as Exmoor trim say that you should keep sound deadening limited as their carpet won’t fit well if you boost all panels out. Glad I did this
Carpet: There aren’t many YouTube videos. This tends to be my go to for learning! The ones there are average.
The double sided carpet tape is a bit naff. I bought some better 2” wide stuff which wasn’t much better. My thoughts on tape is that it will be alright for a flat panel like the base of the rear tub, but anything where you have to fold or bend, tape won’t cut the mustard. The carpet is nice and thick and this makes it want to sit flat. A tight corner will simply peel up and not look sharp. So I went for some screwfix no nonsense spray adhesive. Top stuff and sticks like spunk to a bath! Spray on both sides and leave for a few mins. Just make sure you’ve dry fitted first so you know where things go. Once it contacts it’s a

to get off.
Not much trim needs removing to fit. Just the door bars and the seat belt shrouds and bolts.

Both sound deadening and carpet fitting isn’t that hard. Just very laborious and time consuming. Did over a few days but I recon it took me 15-20 hours in total. Just got to do inside the doors…..

As for sound improvement, yes it has made a difference. Not sure what can be attributed to each component, but I believe all has had its part to play. I think the sound deadening just dulls the tinny noise and the carpet helps muffle echo…. Kind of like when you’re in an empty plastered room, then you put down your carpet, curtains and furniture. Not quite Mercedes S class, but a definite improvement to sound and looks.

So questions: the seatbelt mechanism has a plastic cover that secures with 4 of those black plastic mushroom thingys where the centre core splays it it to fit the hole…. Now I have sound deadening and carpet, they’re not long enough to go in the hole. What can I use to get this trim back on? Does anyone sell long ones?

Also, best way to remove door cards so I can sound deaden inside the door…. Just clipped on? Pull off? Any tips?

Hope some found this useful if your considering.

20th Dec 2021 11:47am

discomog

Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2532

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

Try these guys for plastic fasteners

https://www.vehicleclips.co.uk/search-by-c...-fasteners Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8

20th Dec 2021 12:27pm

donmacn

Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1850

I think you're right, and that sound-deadening is cumulative, and each small bit plays its part.

I've used Wright accoustic matting rather than carpet, but with the noise-killer adhesive matting underneath. (Some pics on the rebuild thread linked below if you're interested).

On the question of removing the door panels - it's mainly screws to start with, but then pins/clips around the edge.

Two screws in the handle; one screw under the door opening lever; a screw or a clip on the window winder.

Once these are off the door card will be ready to pull off - but you'll still need to prise up the lock button surround. In my experience these always break

Then the door card should just pull away.

Refit is reverse except that you'll almost certainly find (depending on the age of the car) that several of the 'male pin clips' on the card will have broken and need replaced.

You'll also need to allow for removing the water shedder - foam or plastic sheeting - which keeps the water inside the door and towards the draining holes.

Nothing in any sense 'difficult' given what you've done already, but not something I really enjoy. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

20th Dec 2021 12:38pm

pilsburypie

Member Since: 19 Jul 2021
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 176

Discomog- thanks for the link. I’ll get measuring the old ones and I’m bound to find something a bit longer there.

Donmacn- cheers for the reply. I’ll have a bash at those door cards very soon. Lots of jobs feel like a chore, but it’s the end result we’re after. Making these old beasts what they shoulda coulda have been out of the factory! But I suppose that’s their charm.

20th Dec 2021 2:57pm

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