![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Militarty/Civvy Defender Trailer/Power Sockets |
![]() ![]() |
|
|
me@td5.org Member Since: 16 Jan 2011 Location: Warwick Posts: 856 ![]() ![]() |
My advice would be to convert to a european 13 pin socket. That will give you all you need to replace the 12N and 12S sockets and allow you to have a single socket and cable, like on the original Sankey.
The original Sankey plug is 12 pin but contains when wired as standard things you may never use (like the convoy light) You could wire it to do whatever you want but what if you ever want to tow something else. |
||
![]() |
|
LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 ![]() ![]() |
That's exactly what I've done - my Sankey now sports a 13 pin plug. That involved a bit of head scratching! Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
||
![]() |
|
JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, best idea is to change the wiring on the trailer. My Sankey had a new Euro plug on it as well. John
http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
||
![]() |
|
udderlyoffroad Member Since: 18 Jul 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 124 ![]() ![]() |
I’ve pondered this too – as I don’t have a crossmember with a recessed hole, and I’m unwilling to cut one as I’ve had my entire chassis dipped now! I think I’ll end up making a ‘bumper bar’ which will bolt to the underside of the crossmember*, and mount a 13 pin socket and Anderson jump socket in that. Basically an L-shaped bit of steel to which the sockets are secured, which is then protected by a piece of flat plate, bent round and welded to the top and sides of the ‘L’ to form a bottom protection plate. Not ideal but it will protect the sockets somewhat.
As an alternative, take a look at this thread on LR4x4 (the chap was a member on here but haven’t seen him post in either forum for a while): http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60122 What he’s done is stuck with the military socket, but mounted it through the bodywork. Drastic, but definitely protected. Other than if you attempt to open the rear door! As to whether you could take a military socket and replace its guts with 12N /12S…probably, but just try finding one. They’re not cheap! I only have the male half from my Sankey – but I’m not convinced they’re much more robust than the new 13 pin job – but even if they are, replacing them without having access to the Quarter Master’s stores would be difficult. There are 24 v recessed, spring mounted sockets. But these are deliberately different from their 12v cousins. In summary then, I'm going for the 13-pin option too! *Pre TD5- xmembers have threaded holes underneath for the various tow-bar permutations. Real trucks don't have spark plugs |
||
![]() |
|
Vitesse Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 389 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Old thread but I managed to fit the NATO socket to my Puma. Very simple. How did you get on in the end?
![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge 2015 90 XS Santorini Black |
||
![]() |
|
![]() ![]() |
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
