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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Hinge bulkhead no-longer captive nut - any ideas? SOLVED
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balmybaldwin



Member Since: 17 Apr 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Buckingham Blue
Hinge bulkhead no-longer captive nut - any ideas? SOLVED
Finally got round to changing the hinges on my front passenger door today... Top one went swimmingly...

Bottom one though I have one captive nut that has broken free of it's cage and is just spinning on the old bolt.

It loosened about 3mm before it went, so I can get a trim prising tool in between the hinge and the rubber to force nut up against the cage, but even this isn't increasing friction enough to get the bolt to turn in the nut.

For now I'm smothering it in WD40, and Ive got reasonable access to the hole, so I can get a screw drvier in against the nut, but again not enough to stop the nut turning.

I could* cut the bolt, but I think that won't improve the situation as it'll still be stuck in the hole with a nut on the other side.

I'm guessing others have had to deal with this?

Now in situation where I can't really just bolt it back on again and drive round with a bolt loose


*this might be optimistic without damaging bodywork


Last edited by balmybaldwin on 28th Aug 2021 9:04pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #918885 27th Aug 2021 5:19pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3457

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Congratulations, you just made it theft proof Laughing

You can cut it, extreme care that you di not damage the bulkhead. Keep the blade on the hinge side, as hinge is cheap to replace if damaged. Since the nut in the captive plate is spinning, most likely you would then be able to push what remains of the bolt and the nut in and then take it out from the central rectangular hole. Then again care not to drop the bolt/nut in the bulkhead. Maybe you can tie some cable ties on the bolt, right next to the bulkhead before you start cutting, so you can keep or pull the bolt out. The cable tie might act as an extra protection to the bulkhead. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #918889 27th Aug 2021 5:38pm
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balmybaldwin



Member Since: 17 Apr 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Buckingham Blue
That's what I fear.

After a bit of poking about I think there is a side access that could be used if I take the wing off... however I forsee that leading to similar issues elsewhere.

One of my issues is that the hinge is so loose it might be hard to cut without someone holding on to it... I guess I could fix it with the other bolt.

Might have to go shopping for a low profile grinder... I doubt a dremel bit would do it, and my current grinder is difficult to get flat against things

Click image to enlarge
Post #918891 27th Aug 2021 6:34pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17517

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Drill the head off the bolt, remove the hinge, if necessary cut the bolt shorter, then bend the retaining tag clear of the bulkhead and remove the remains through the centre cut-out.

If you try cutting between the hinge and the body you will almost certainly damage something you don't want to damage.

If you can't drill the head because the bolt spins, use a 1mm cutting disk in an angle grinder to cut into the hinge parallel to the body panels and cut through the bolt (use a Torx tool to stop the bolt spinning). You'll wreck the hinge but you're replacing it anyway.
Post #918893 27th Aug 2021 6:39pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

balmybaldwin wrote:
That's what I fear.

After a bit of poking about I think there is a side access that could be used if I take the wing off... however I forsee that leading to similar issues elsewhere.

One of my issues is that the hinge is so loose it might be hard to cut without someone holding on to it... I guess I could fix it with the other bolt.

Might have to go shopping for a low profile grinder... I doubt a dremel bit would do it, and my current grinder is difficult to get flat against things

Click image to enlarge

Have you tried heating up the bolt with a small burner and try wedging in a trim fir tree removing tool and see if it will turn?
Post #918900 27th Aug 2021 7:47pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1850

 
balmybaldwin wrote:
That's what I fear.

After a bit of poking about I think there is a side access that could be used if I take the wing off... however I forsee that leading to similar issues elsewhere.

One of my issues is that the hinge is so loose it might be hard to cut without someone holding on to it... I guess I could fix it with the other bolt.

Might have to go shopping for a low profile grinder... I doubt a dremel bit would do it, and my current grinder is difficult to get flat against things

Click image to enlarge


I would suggest a set of left handed drill bits - they might just encourage the bolt to start turning.

But mainly I wanted to mention a diamond edged cutting disc I recently found/bought for my dremel - it was a really effective piece of kit. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #918905 27th Aug 2021 8:01pm
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MichaelE



Member Since: 18 Jan 2020
Location: Crawley West Sussex
Posts: 155

England 
Whatever method you have success with, don't worry about dropping the remnants inside the bulkhead. Ultimately, no harm will be done in the big scheme of things if it stays there. When I was rustproofing the internals of my bulkhead last year I too lost a nutplate remnant. Down at the bottom there was a small hole, maybe half an inch or less. Can't remember if it was a drain hole or a rust hole. Anyway, I enlarged it to about 3/4 inch or so and let a pile of rust fall out, along with the remnant. Then I placed a bowl underneath to catch the excess Dinitrol that poured out after injection, to re-use.

When it comes to fitting new nut plates, there are one-piece ones available, and you won't have this trouble again. It's also worth noting that I had a new 2-piece nutplate [Britpart] come apart and drop to the bottom on trying to start the bolt. That's when I found the 1-piece ones.
Post #918931 27th Aug 2021 11:38pm
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balmybaldwin



Member Since: 17 Apr 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 192

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Buckingham Blue
Well, after some encouragement from your good selves, I have taken an Angle Grinder to my pride and joy.

Success!



Click image to enlarge



Plus I thought for benefit of others, here's what I did to make sure I didn't drop the bolt and J clip

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Finished:


Click image to enlarge
Post #919041 28th Aug 2021 9:09pm
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