![]() | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma video build |
![]() ![]() |
|
|
Gloucesternige Member Since: 17 Jan 2020 Location: In the garage Posts: 114 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi all,
As some of you will be aware I am totally restoring my 2011 16k mile Puma 90 and recording every nut and bolt as I go for my You Tube videos. So far I have covered rebuilding the Transfer case with an Ashcroft ATB centre diff, MT-82 full rebuild, front and rear axles full rebuild using Ashcroft ATB and Locker diffs, Gwyn Lewis H/D diff pans and Terrafirma axle trusses. The chassis has been blasted and repainted using Corroless paints, Waxoyled and then fitted back onto the axles using Super pro bushes from Gwyn Lewis. I also did some fabrication work to straighten out the famously "bowed in at the ends" rear crossmember. As of today, May 14th 2021 I have just started a series on rebuilding the 2.4 Tdci engine. As I say, all of this is documented in videos covering the mistakes as well as the successes. pop on over to my channel if you are interested in how your Land Rover is put together and how it works. Nige Check out my You Tube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel |
||
![]() |
|
Gloucesternige Member Since: 17 Jan 2020 Location: In the garage Posts: 114 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well, If you look back at 13th Dec '19 you'll see i sprayed a rusty piece of steel with corroless S primer. it has been outside in sun, rain, wind, snow and ice 24/7 since and it still hasn't rusted.
I am finding the RF 16 gloss black loses it's shine in the weather, but doesn't allow rust to form. Nige Check out my You Tube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel |
||
![]() |
|
Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4246 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi Nige. Thanks for the videos.I watch every single one.
Are you a Toolmaker by trade? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
||
![]() |
|
SJM2018 Member Since: 06 Jul 2018 Location: Bristol Posts: 296 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I’m 2 hours in! Nice to watch you work, while I’m meant to be working
![]() Have you considered sticking the engine from the mustang into the defender? I think it’s meant to be a ‘relatively’ straight forward swap 2011 CSW XS 90 |
||
![]() |
|
Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3483 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Have watched quite a few of your videos
![]() The MT82 strip down was very interesting. Will be watching the engine rebuild. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
||
![]() |
|
Gloucesternige Member Since: 17 Jan 2020 Location: In the garage Posts: 114 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
And put the Puma in the Mustang?? I would like to see if I could build a Mustang/LR MT 82 that would bolt to the V8 and Transfer case with LR gearing? Maybe one day?? Nige Check out my You Tube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel |
||
![]() |
|
Gloucesternige Member Since: 17 Jan 2020 Location: In the garage Posts: 114 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Did you watch the MT82 rebuild? Nige Check out my You Tube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel |
||
![]() |
|
Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3483 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
No, not yet, but definitely I will as your videos are very interesting (this morning I started watching part 1 of the 2.4 rebuild).
Back to the MT82 I watched it based on your input to decide if I should replace the mainshaft or not after finding some wear on the splines. In the end I took the gamble, cheapest for now, and will probably continue driving until I loose drive (I am never too far from a free rescue). With a Puma it has to happen someday!! 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
||
![]() |
|
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nige, I was intrigued by your insistence that there cannot be alignment issues between the MT82 output and the LT230 input when you were talking about the LOF one-piece adaptor shaft in your video. Being mindful of the strength of your feelings, what do you think would account for the huge variations in spline wear on notionally identical vehicles built on the same line at the same time using notionally identical parts, if not a tolerance/alignment issue?
There is ample evidence from data supplied through this forum that one vehicle can suffer a shaft failure in under 2000 miles, the next last well over 250,000 miles, but with no difference in assembly or lubrication on assembly. There must be a reason for this. As I have said before on this forum, on my 2007 110 the original coupling was as dry as a bone when I first changed the clutch myself at around the 150k mile mark, but it had no discernible wear at all and the two parts were a better fit together than the new coupling I had bought in the expectation of need. It was reassembled with very copious lubrication and is still going strong at 250k miles. The fact that it was dry suggests that it is not simply a problem with a lack of lube. To my mind there can be no other explanation than an alignment issue, maybe a problem with accumulated tolerances. I changed the transfer box at 150k miles as well as the clutch and was prepared for accelerated coupling wear as a result. This hasn't happened, and that to me suggests that either I have been lucky with LT230s, or that it isn't the transfer box with a tolerance problem. Personally I think it unlikely that either the MT82 or the LT230 are the variable, and that the adaptor housing is the suspect part. |
||
![]() |
|
Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3483 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
+1 with thinking that the adaptor housing being the culprit.
My 90 has a history of failures, adaptor faces are pretty planar, so most likely it is an offset in dowel pin locators between the MT82 side to the LT230 side and not an angular misalignment. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
||
![]() |
|
Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I enjoy your stuff Nige. Rgds.
Chris |
||
![]() |
|
nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 ![]() |
I agree with you blackwolf that alignment is the prime suspect and if it is the lof one piece shaft you would have thought cause trouble further up the drivetrain......I guess time will tell! I don't suppose it could be the inconsistent quality of the manufacture of the shaft itself producing the variability ...isnt it not strange that the shaft splines tend to wear and the splines on the housing dont? |
||
![]() |
|
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I think if you look through the many photos posted on this forum you'll see that both part do wear, I acknowledge that the male part seems to wear a little quicker. There can also be no doubt that quite a few failures have been on shafts that were either improperly assembled (not fully engaged) or where the spring ring has failed to retain the parts, although I suspect that it is actually improper assembly in most of these cases.
I still personally believe that alignment is the strongest contender for the root cause. |
||
![]() |
|
nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 ![]() |
Agree but is the inconsistency in the quality of the shaft manufacture not a possible vector for the failures?
|
||
![]() |
|
![]() ![]() |
|
All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
