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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2229   
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As you have seen, you only get volt drop when current flows (V=IxR). That volt drop is far too high though, should only be a volt maximum really.
Probably the first signs of switch failure (assuming you dont have relays fitted) Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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20th Aug 2021 8:30am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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That looks about normal for voltage drop with H4 bulbs on elderly wiring. This is why changing to LED headlights is such a good idea, so much less current draw on the fragile (and usually aged) Land Rover wiring loom and pathetic light switch. The older the loom gets, the less efficiently it will work, less voltage to the bulbs, increased resistance, more heat and melted switches. The other option is fitting the standalone headlight loom (such as the one by Red Bison) that uses the standard lighting loom to trigger the standalone loom that is connected directly to the battery. Protection for the Defenders loom, plus better light output. Better all round.
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20th Aug 2021 8:34am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5845 
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Cheers both, suspected as much. I have since purchased an headlight loom but not fitted yet.
I wonder how much light I am losing....? 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th Aug 2021 8:46am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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A noticeable amount...
 When I stuck the loom in with H4s it felt like night and day at the time. Then I stuck LED headlights in and it was like turning daytime on... |
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20th Aug 2021 8:54am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5845
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So an noticeable amount then. There are times down country lanes and unlit motorways when I wonder if my lights are actually on....
Another job to add to the list before winter 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th Aug 2021 9:00am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Definitely before Winter. If you don't already have them then also think about fitting the clear crystal lensed headlamps as well. Big difference on the standard LR/Wipac quadraphotic items.
https://www.paddockspares.com/pm935-wipac-...ralia.html - Obviously there are other sellers, but you get the idea 
Not that expensive, but worth it come winter and country roads  |
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20th Aug 2021 9:28am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5845
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Cheers, yup got them with Osram Night breakers. Just going from old headlights to new, was quite a change. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th Aug 2021 9:34am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Great combo the Crystals and Osrams
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20th Aug 2021 9:53am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5845
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They are indeed. Hopefully get the loom done over the next couple of weeks. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th Aug 2021 9:55am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033  
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The switch has high voltage drop well worth running through relays. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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20th Aug 2021 10:57pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5845
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Hi JST. Thats the plan, I have the loom, just need to get around to fitting it. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Aug 2021 7:15am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033
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i run relays on my defenders having had a switch melt a while back started the process. voltages all much higher than the 10.5ish std. even with std bulbs difference is seen, add better bulbs and its a cheap good mod without need to LEDs etc etc Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Aug 2021 7:43am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
Click image to enlarge Remove head and side lighting fuse before starting 
You will need to remove dash front and also two plastic covers in-between steering wheel and dash to get to plug switch lighting you can mod the head light cct to add relay with out cutting in to wiring c0041 - 4 and c0041-1 have to be removed from plug switch lighting parts needed from mod Hard plastic 6.3mm female blade terminal cover. White qty 10 Thin wall cable 2.0mm. blue ---------- brown/ blue 2m of each ---------black 500mm long Tin plated 6.3mm male terminal with latch 1.5-2.5m cable. qty 2 Single cover for 6.3mm male blade terminal. White. qty 2 5mm ring terminal qty 1 6.3mm female blade 1.5-2.5mm qty 10 6.3mm female blade 4mm qty -1 relay end for the two brown- blue wires that are grumped as one see pic Click image to enlarge This pic show lighting switch end with two 6.3mm male terminal with covers that join up with two wire removed from the plug you will need too add female covers to the removed wire ends from the plug also shows the two female terminals that fit in to the plug no cover needed Click image to enlarge 480mm 16mm conduit to cover wiring between relay and terminal see below pic one Click image to enlarge 30 amp automotive relay with mounting tab I have the relay mounted under dash on right hand side and black wire and ring under fixing screw Click image to enlarge U = blue NU = brown blue b= black wire go to ground R = 5mm ring terminal M= Tin plated 6.3mm male terminal with latch 1.5-2.5m cable with Single cover for 6.3mm male blade terminal Fm = 6.3mm female blade only so that way can be fitted into plug that wires c0041 - 4 and c0041-1 removed from 6.3mm female blade with Hard plastic 6.3mm female blade terminal cover. White used at relay wire ends check your wire and replace fuse and test side and head lights |
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21st Aug 2021 8:46am |
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