 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > 5w30 Synthetic Oils |
 
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| AdrianCR Member Since: 23 Aug 2009 Location: Costa Rica Posts: 52  
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Greetings mates. My Defender just got off warranty, so Im not obliged to use Castrol 5w30 Magnatec anymore. Options are Valvoline, Mobil1, Repsol and Quaker State. After some research on the web I was impressed by Quaker State, they challenged Mobil1, Castrol and Valvoline for several wear tests to prove Quaker State is the best. Such companies declined the challenge. This pretty much convinces me to go for Quaker State, but somehow I feel its just marketing. My local dealer offers only Repsol and Castrol, should I stick to either one of them or go for Quaker State? Or Valvoline, Mobil1. My priority is to get the best protection for achieving as many miles possible out of my Puma. Cheers
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28th Aug 2011 5:09am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637  
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I would stick with a fully synthetic oil that meets Ford Spec WSS-M2C-913C. Mobil 1 is probably your best bet --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ Last edited by Naks on 28th Aug 2011 10:56am. Edited 2 times in total |
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28th Aug 2011 7:31am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2411  
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Bear in mind that not all 5W-30 suit the Ford spec. M2C913B can be replaced by 913C which, in this case, is in deed a better spec with higher soot handling capacity. M1 does not meet the spec. Only Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30.
From Mobil : ".......LR requires the ACEA A5/B5 spec, but only recommends the Ford spec......" Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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28th Aug 2011 8:07am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637
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MK, what oil are you using? Does it make a difference when compared to the Castrol LR uses?
IIRC Agip is a good brand as well? This one fits the specs - Agip FORMULA ECO F: http://www.ndi.eu/Olie/Produktdatablad/For...%20SDS.pdf -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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28th Aug 2011 6:59pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2411
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80% Of my miles are on long distances ie. non severe conditions. A 913A or B oil does not last 10000 km according to my oil tests (5000 km is ok. At least on my vehicle). The 913C goes well up to 7500 km of use on non severe conditions.
I`m using Motul Specific 913C. The AGIP oil you mention fits perfectly to your needs I would say. But bear in mind it probably will not last 10000 km like LR claims. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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28th Aug 2011 7:19pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637
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Wow, only 5000km!? What levels of sulphur is present in your diesel? In South Africa I only use diesel with 50ppm, but sometimes when going into the rural areas or Namibia you only get 500ppm, so after a long trip I always change the oil. I also change the oil every 10000km regardless. I am trying to get the Mobil Super, but no one sells it in SA, so I have to find something else. I also doubt that I will find Agip. There is always LiquiMoly? -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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28th Aug 2011 7:28pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2411
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We have both types of diesel fuel (high and low S). I was also changing the oil every 10kkm, but anymore. IIRC the min. TBN value for A5/B5 is aorund 8 mgKOH/g, which seems not to be enough. I could replenish my sump with a few lithers of new oil, but I rather change the oil. If the weather over there is quite hot then a 0W-40 should be fine. After a few thousand clicks its viscosity drops nearly to a 5W-30 but it has a starting TBN of 10.
Believe it or not the Australian Penrite oil has a 5W-40 oil meeting the Ford specs. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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28th Aug 2011 7:56pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637
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I also agree, in non-EU climates, the oil should be a 40. Unfortunately my landy is still under warranty, so I have to use the Castrol A1 Professional or something else that conforms to the 913C spec. If we had that Aussie Penrite oil in SA, I would definitely use that! -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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29th Aug 2011 7:01am |
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| landylash Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: pakistan Posts: 10  
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hello.i think one of the biggest question still remains why and what type of oil do we use.here in pakistan 8months the climate is hot . the biggest problem with using fullysynthettic oil like mobile1 with me is oil expires in the sump before it is on the road. some says it is better to buy toys for your kids rather to buy expensive synthetics which you could not use to there limit.landrover wenders gave me three different types of oil to try caltex havoline energy 5w30 .exool from uk5w30.and the last one is kendall from conocophillip5w40 titanium liquid.personally i like havoline and kendall. it gives me good millage .good starting and efficent engine noise.should i be using kendall in extreme hot conditions or come back to landrover recommended 5w30 still remains a big question.
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29th Aug 2011 11:59pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637
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Information that I gathered online about the oils meeting the Ford spec WSS-M2C-913C, may be useful:
From Opie Oils Agip Formula ECO FO Caltex Havoline Energy 5w30 Fuchs Titan Supersyn F 5w30 LiquiMoly Leichtlauf Special F 5W-30 Mobil Super 3000 X1 Formula FE 5W-30 Motul 8100 Eco-Nergy 5w30 Penrite HPR Diesel 5w40 (only conforms to M2C-913-A/B) Shell Helix Ultra AF 5W-30 Unfortunately for me, other than the LiquiMoly, none of them are available in SA. I hope you fare better in your country. Btw, also look at the viscosity at 100C of the oil you are buying - the closer it is to 12.5, the better. -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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30th Aug 2011 11:02am |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
Why not use an Ester Fully Synthetic engine oil instead of the modified mineral Fully Synthetics?
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic7647.html |
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30th Aug 2011 4:43pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637
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Ester synthetic better than mineral synthetic I take it? Looks like only the Motul SPECIFIC 913C 5W-30 is ester and 913C What's the difference between PAO(?) and ester synthetic? -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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30th Aug 2011 5:43pm |
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