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felixp



Member Since: 29 Oct 2020
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 39
Germany 
Winch - Kill Switch or Relay?
If got the Bearmach Power Mach 9500lbs winch coming my way and I want to install it in a way that it only gets power when I need it. I will use 50mm2 cable just to be on the safe side.

Option 1:





Install a kill switch in the seat box, switching the power line of the winch. Switch is rated at 300A constant and 450a temporary. Might even put an extra fuse (what rating would you suggest? 400A?) between battery and switch. Would this be sufficient to handle the power of the winch?

Option 2:





Use a high power relay (max. 500A) and then use an OEM style winch button in the dash. Clean solution, as I still have an old switch wired up in the dash ready to go from my rear lights I don't need anymore.

However it seems to me as if this could just be another thing which could break and if something does go wrong a simple kill switch as in option 1 seems the better solution. However I like the idea of having the (illuminated) switch nicely installed in the dash....


What do you guys think? Which option would you go for?

Looking forward to your opinions!
Post #930044 16th Nov 2021 10:11pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 917
United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
I run the ol fancy switch on the dash and a Albright Solenoid in the battery box. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #930045 16th Nov 2021 10:32pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3430
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
To fuse or not to fuse:

Generally fuse should be the weakest link. 50mm^2 cable is rated at max 240A. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #930057 17th Nov 2021 7:14am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554
4.5 kw @11.5 volts dc = 401.7 amps but this will be pend how low voltage drops then your winch is under load
Post #930066 17th Nov 2021 8:17am
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felixp



Member Since: 29 Oct 2020
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 39
Germany 
So the 50mm2 cable will not be enough? How do others have their winch installed?
Post #930068 17th Nov 2021 8:52am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2237
United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
I have got a low-current emergency stop switch mounted on the front of the winch with a dual-channel circuit (2 relays) which de-energise the winch contactor, the allbright solenoid in the battery compartment and the supply to the remote to cover off pretty much any fault.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a fuse in the winch circuit.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #930077 17th Nov 2021 9:51am
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 626
Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Relay - it can be placed on suitable place to have very short wire to plus pole of battery. Switch must be placed in location it can be manually operated. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #930079 17th Nov 2021 10:03am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018
United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
I'd have thought a pair of Anderson connectors would do exactly what you want with minimal fuss?
Post #930124 17th Nov 2021 4:55pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17463
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Personally I like the manual switch (ideally with a removable key) on the front of the batter box. It is simple, foolproof, virtually impossible to operate inadvertently, and there is little that to go wrong. As I have said before I see little point in fitting a fuse, it probably won't stop your vehicle catching fire, creates a false sense of security, and is one more thing to go wrong at the worst moment.
Post #930136 17th Nov 2021 6:11pm
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chopcat



Member Since: 11 Sep 2012
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 412
Wales 2000 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Java Black
Relay - it will isolate with the ignition off. (if wired that way)
Post #930175 18th Nov 2021 12:05am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018
United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Is there a table of current draw under load ~ which options match the winch spec and leave a margin of safety the OP is comfortable with?
Post #930177 18th Nov 2021 5:48am
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 626
Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
Winch with engine off - for sure yes. But we need do calculate with battery capacity. Just imagine car stuck in watter, you can pull it out with winch, and starting engine after check for watter in air intake. Same with using winch to pull car up on the tree to lift the fron for some field repair.
Anothe reason for some kill switch is corrosion of electrical parts (like solenoids) - when they are under power, they corrode much faster. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #930181 18th Nov 2021 7:06am
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SteveG



Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 661
2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Belize Green
felixp wrote:
So the 50mm2 cable will not be enough? How do others have their winch installed?


The 50mm2 cable will be more than sufficient. Just make sure you buy a decent quality and one that is flexible. Any local company supplying welding cable should be able to supply this for you. Going bigger than 50mm2 to say 70mm2 or 95mm2 will just give you a lower voltage drop and becomes more unwieldy and more costly. You don’t need the extra amp capacity.

Manual isolator switch or electrical isolator controlled by a switch is just personal preference. If you go for electrical isolator controlled by a switch, go for one that is designed to be an isolator and again good quality. Popular here in UK is Albright… https://www.devon4x4.com/albright-su280-isolator-250a.html
Post #930198 18th Nov 2021 10:19am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2302
Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I went option 2


Click image to enlarge > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #930200 18th Nov 2021 10:26am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5732
2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
35mm cables on mine, as I have had on all three of my Defenders, and a simple, but good quality, isolator on the front of the battery box. That way there is only about 250mm of wire before the isolator, so I don’t use a fuse. I can also easily bypass it should it be required and can use winch whilst engine not running.
Post #930201 18th Nov 2021 10:29am
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