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. At this point we managed to remove the caliper and hub so that we could access the bolts from the other side, thinking they would be easy to drill out from this angle...but no. We are now in the process of slowly drilling out the bolts, working up the drill bit sizes and, despite a good quality drill, slow speeds and HSS bits, we are just managing to snap bit after bit with no sign of the remains of the bolt moving.
| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5843   
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Plenty of heat and a left hand drill bit? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Aug 2021 2:15pm |
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| Snowy90 Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 482 
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Have you tried some heat? Get a blow torch on the bracket not the broken bolt it might expand just enough to come loose while your drilling inside the broken bolt??
Just a thought |
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2nd Aug 2021 2:20pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 
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If the threads get damaged, they can be repaired with a helicoil type thread repair kit.
Twist drills don't like taking really small cuts, that's why you are snapping bits. Try going up in bigger intervals if you can. For future reference, ACF 50 isn't a penetrating oil and wont help with seized bolts. You need a proper penetrating fluid. Also when unwinding tough bolts or screws especially if you think they might have thread lock on them, use heat and penetrating fluid (wear goggles!) and work the bolt back and forth, don't just try to wind it out. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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2nd Aug 2021 2:32pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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If the bolts were installed with loctite, then heat will soften the loctite. Do not need too much heat for loctite... I think it already looses strength around 200dC. Need to try and undo while still hot.
If they rusted in place, which I hope is not the case for a 5 year old Defender, then more heat is required to expand and contract the rust. Try a few thermal cycles, with plenty of penetrating oil. Left hand or right hand drill bit should not make any difference. If using a right hand drill, what is remaining of the screw could come out of the back side if it starts spinning with the drill bit. FYI, HSS drill bits are softer than cheese. Try to get Cobalt drill bits.. they are not too expensive. Ultimate is carbide drill bits, but probably you will snap them on a hand drill. The original bolt, SYP500090 is M12. I hope you can get the remnants of the bolt out without damaging the thread. If the thread gets damaged, then you could always install a helicoil. Good luck. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Aug 2021 2:42pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227 
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Plenty of head to the outside of the mounting lugs to expand them and break the bond of any threadlock.
As you have already managed to drill a reasonable hole in the centre you could try bashing in a suitable size torx bit which I have had some success with. No need for left handed drill as you can drill from the opposite (outer) side as you are doing. Did you have a massive breaker bar on them, takes some serious force to snap an M12 bolt? Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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2nd Aug 2021 2:53pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1218  
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Small drill bits require higher drill speeds to be effective - going slow will mean snapping them.
https://ruko.de/assets_ruko/downloads/RUKO...drills.pdf You don't need to drain the oil from the diff to remove the stub axle - just jack up the side you want to remove a few inches so all the oil goes down the other end of the casing. Heat and a penetrating fluid such as Duck Oil or Plus Gas will help a lot more than WD40 or ACF. If you get the bracket off and have a pillar drill it will be a lot easier to drill out. If you damage it I know someone who may just have a few lying around destined for the scrap bin if they haven't already made it there. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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2nd Aug 2021 7:35pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2646 
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Pretty sure the bracket is part of the axle casing, unless they changed on later models.
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2nd Aug 2021 10:03pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 03 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5167
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I feel your pain with this! i had the same problem with one of my K Series engines, my dad came to bolt the engine mount on the engine and the it snapped on him, we tried all sorts but my dad decided to chew the remains, so i couldn't even get a thread extractor on there. A local engineering shop made a second hole for the engine bracket, and i ended up bolting that one, using another hole. After all that fun and games, i later found out that the engine was scrap, the seller sold me an engine that had been bodged to the point, they had caused £500 pounds worth of damage, ( what i paid for it) due to them trying to hide it had head gasket failure.
 £2000 engine conversion, ended up costing me practically double and then some!
Be interesting to see how you get on with this, just in case i have this nightmare again! Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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2nd Aug 2021 10:34pm |
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| Moneypit Member Since: 27 Feb 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 271 
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On one stubborn 90 rear axle i had to cut the heads off the calliper mounting bolts and then chopped the caliper into bits to get it off. Some vehicles don't seem to want to be saved.......
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2nd Aug 2021 11:14pm |
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| MichaelE Member Since: 18 Jan 2020 Location: Crawley West Sussex Posts: 155 
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I haven't tried this myself so don't blame me if it doesn't work. I've read that masonry drills will cut in to broken extractors. Slowly, with plenty of lubricant.
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3rd Aug 2021 7:56am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209
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Carbide tipped masonry drills will cut into hard steel, but you need to regrind the tip. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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3rd Aug 2021 8:07am |
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| Procta Member Since: 03 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5167
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is it not possible to weld to nuts on there and wind them out? Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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5th Aug 2021 12:36am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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^^^ have tried that method before, 99% failed. But could be due to my welding technique and equipment. Maybe higher chance of success with a tig. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Aug 2021 6:47am |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1218
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You need to hit it very hot and quickly to get the bolt to weld properly. It's difficult because it's got a lot of heat sinking compared to the nut. Preheating the bolt / bracket in this instance would help. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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5th Aug 2021 7:01am |
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