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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20325

United Kingdom 
You won’t go wrong with the above for sure.
I’ve been happy with my 1st Gen Noldens but they are very pricey, mainly I like the look of them but everyone has their likes and dislikes.

Pound for pound though Crystals and upgrade loom and good bulbs are unbeatable and you don’t have any ice issues compared to LED.
This is something that doesn’t worry me with my 90 but it may be an issue to others.
That being said aux lighting such as LED indicators etc has the same issues.

An added plus with the upgrade looks is you can still swap between incandescent (light bulbs) to LED whenever you’d like. It will still work perfectly whichever you choose or should you wish to swap.

It’s also worth taking it to have the headlight alignment done at a test station as it then gets them bang on spec for the MOT.
I’ve had a good MOT tester adjust and pass for free in the past but alignment is worthile.
At the very least you can roughly do them yourself against a wall as well if you wanted to DIY.

Except for winter time I don’t tend to do much night driving, I don’t have cause to for any reason really much.

Land Reiziger loom and Nolden Gen 1 for me.
But used to have Crystals and Philips H4 upgrade bulbs.
Also an ideal time to fit stainless headlight rings as well, I had to on mine as they were past their best on the originals. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #914501 28th Jul 2021 7:30pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
One downside I found with LED headlights is how to adjust them if heading abroad.

I had one trip to Spain a few years ago when I had Noldens fitted. We did not plan any after dark driving, but attempted to put some tape over the lights like you would have done on a standard reflector setup, to show that we had at least made the effort.

When the boat got cancelled back to England due to a storm, we ended up driving, which given the distance ended up driving in the dark as we got close to Calais - and received a lot of flashes from drivers on the other side the motorway.

I still don't know what you are supposed to do about this, its clearly not practical to buy a second left-hand-drive set and swap them over? 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #914572 29th Jul 2021 8:26am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Tape on the lens won't work with LED headlights as they don't use the lens to create their beam pattern. On halogen lights, the lens is an integral part of creating the correct beam but on LED's it's typically just clear Perspex. The only way to adjust them would be to physically do so with the adjuster screws but anecdotal evidence suggests that it's not necessary with many as the beam is so flat and sharp that it doesn't spill over to the 'wrong' side of the road.

As an aside, 'crystal' headlights are somewhere between the two - the lens is just clear plastic but the bowl is facetted to focus the beam in the right place. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #914575 29th Jul 2021 8:37am
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lakelander



Member Since: 07 Jan 2017
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 100

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Orkney Grey
am still using the original Wipac Quadoptics but with upgrade Phillips Extreme bulbs and original loom. Performance is more than adequate and much better then our Freelander on upgraded halogens.

would i get better performance from the Defender lights by changing the loom. Should be no real need as the Phillips bulbs are the same wattage as the original H4 bulbs. i thought the loom only came under presssure when you went for higher wattage bulbs eg 100 watt ( illegal for on road use )

i agree LEDs give a whiter light and improved dip performance with sharp cut off but they are not good for long distance vision.
HID conversion kits are brilliant but also illegal.
Post #914580 29th Jul 2021 9:14am
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 377

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
The thicker cables in the upgraded loom reduces voltage drop. So the bulbs see (closer to) the maximum voltage in the system and performance will improve accordingly.

While this will make more of a difference for uprated bulbs, standard bulbs will also benefit.
Post #914581 29th Jul 2021 9:25am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
An uprated loom should also include relays to protect the switchgear from having to carry the full load of the lights. They're known to melt over time. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #914582 29th Jul 2021 9:30am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17361

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
jpboost wrote:
The thicker cables in the upgraded loom reduces voltage drop. So the bulbs see (closer to) the maximum voltage in the system and performance will improve accordingly.

While this will make more of a difference for uprated bulbs, standard bulbs will also benefit.


Worth remembering too that bulbs last longer working at their design voltage, so counter-intuitively an upgraded loom is likely to result in your bulbs lasting longer too.

This is one of the major flaws with the ridiculous dim dip scheme of old - running headlight bulbs on half voltage shortens their life massively.
Post #914586 29th Jul 2021 10:09am
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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 377

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Completely agree with both the above.

Standard system is badly designed and only just up to the standard job. Upgrading the bulbs really does push it past its limits.
Post #914607 29th Jul 2021 12:15pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17361

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, it is a shame that the dire wiring for the headlights towards the end of classic Defender production so completely reflects the company's utter disinterest in the vehicle at the time, with absolutely no attempt to improve anything or do anything well. The approach to quality was very much "that will do", and clearly there was a reluctance to commit any sort of investment in the vehicle. A very sad end to a long production run of an iconic vehicles, allowed simply to fizzle out in shame under a cloud of corporate embarrassment.
Post #914616 29th Jul 2021 1:48pm
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scotty38



Member Since: 21 May 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 571

England 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Thanks for all the comments and my mind seems to be made up that I'll go for some Lazers but now, which ones?

I had originally thought about the ST4 but, as is usual, have now moved on to ST6 but also looking at Triple-R 850 too.

Given I think my issue is that the main beam isn't illuminating the road in the distance would I be better off with the "spot" beam of the Triple-R versus the "driving lamp" wider beam of the ST6 or would the ST6 be such an improvement anyway that for the country roads type situation they would be the better solution?

I've watched all the videos and studied beam pattern until I'm blue in the face and if I had them side by side I'm sure I could decide so anyone have any real life experience please?
Post #915109 2nd Aug 2021 7:33am
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