 | Home > Td5 > MOT failure - rear crank seal |
 
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| freddie206 Member Since: 18 Oct 2015 Location: Skipton Posts: 90   
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Sounds about right then.
It's something that I'd love to tackle myself. Especially with a job where the part is £40 but the labour is knocking on for £500. Is it possible (albeit difficult) to remove the gearbox with the wheels on the ground? Or would that be absurd. |
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14th Jul 2021 6:44pm |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2231 
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The MOT rules changed a year or so back and oil leaks became a major issue / fail item.......
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14th Jul 2021 6:45pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17725 
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It's entirely possible to do working on the ground, just less comfortable. I have changed my Disco2 clutch and Puma clutch several times working on my driveway. You would need to remove the transfer box and gearbox separately though, but this is not a bad thing.
You would need a jack capable of lowering the transfer box and gearbox safely (a trolley jack will do, a transmission jack is better) and you need to remember that the TD5 flywheel bolts need both a torque wrench and an angular torque device. You'll also need a clutch aligning tool, although this can be improvised at a pinch. Apart from that there are no special problems. You can buy a lot of tools for the amount you'd save in labour (and probably a new house for the amount you'd save over main dealer prices). |
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14th Jul 2021 7:05pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6168 
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Mine needs changing as well, it's making a right old mess underneath (so much so that the oil is "blowing" underneath to the handbrake drum, and getting whipped up around inside it and causing the handbrake to slip!)
The annoying thing was, I changed the clutch & flywheel a couple of years back, and the crank seal was dry as a bone.... but I thought "you know, I'll bolt the gearbox back on and it'll start leaking, so I'd best change it".... Fitted a genuine LR seal as well.... 2 weeks later it starts leaking  |
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14th Jul 2021 7:44pm |
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| freddie206 Member Since: 18 Oct 2015 Location: Skipton Posts: 90
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blackwolf - Just finished reading through the procedure for removing it and it doesn't sound ideal doing it on the ground. Might be a daft question but I'll ask it anyway. Why the need to split the two boxes when doing it on the ground?
diesel_jim - Sod's Law ey! You try and do the right thing and it comes back to bite you. If I give the garage the go ahead I wonder whether it's worth changing the seal from the transfer box to the gearbox. In theory they wouldn't have to split them but they are prone to leaking. |
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14th Jul 2021 7:56pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17725
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The reason for splitting them is because you can't shift them far enough back under the vehicle to get the clutch out due to the crossmember behind the handbrake drum (also the reason for taking the handbrake off first), and as a single lump they are too big to get out from under the vehicle - they don't fit under the chassis rail.
A secondary reason is because as a single lump they are so heavy and hard to manoeuvre under the vehicle it is a bit lethal - drop that lot on an organ and the organ is done for. It actually adds little time and effort to the job to take them off separately. An alternative if you're working on the ground of course would be to whip the engine out, rather than the transmission, but this probably takes longer. |
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14th Jul 2021 8:19pm |
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| freddie206 Member Since: 18 Oct 2015 Location: Skipton Posts: 90
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If only I could pick up a 4 post lift for the same price as 6 hours labour!
Whip the engine out! Just like that! Everything seems to be pointing to let the garage do it. I suppose it's having the confidence in them to do it right and if its not the crank seal that's leaking then tell me rather than change it anyway and close it all up. Shame they're not an approved installer of LOF clutches or this would be a no brainer! Appreciate you taking the time to talk me through all of this blackwolf! |
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14th Jul 2021 8:51pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727  
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It took my local specialist a lot longer than 6 hours to change my Td5 clutch a few years ago! I won't mention their name as they are a site sponsor, and to be fair I don't know how much of the time they had the car they were actually working on it, but they had the car for a week.
Rather frustratingly, I asked them to change the crank seal at the same time for piece of mind (there was no evidence to suggest it was leaking before). 3 months after it was changed, I then found oil in that area which suggests it is leaking - not failed an MOT yet because of it though (as suggested above, a clean of the engine prior to the MOT can reap rewards...). 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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14th Jul 2021 9:03pm |
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| freddie206 Member Since: 18 Oct 2015 Location: Skipton Posts: 90
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Hufflepuff - I'm expecting similar to be honest. It was only in for MOT and now it's a case of them finding 6 hours workshop time at some point. That's very frustrating. Do you think that was down to installer error? I know you technically have to drop the sump in order to fit the seal properly but it might be something that people avoid doing. As for the clean I can see how that would have been beneficial but I suppose there's a silver lining in that if it's actually leaking then it can be sorted and hopefully last another 15 years.
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14th Jul 2021 9:11pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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I have no idea. It could have been a faulty part, incorrectly installed, or just bad luck. I'm just living with it at the moment, its not dripping enough to leave a mark on the ground, its just that the underside is all wet with oil. I did initially wonder if it was the fuel pressure regulator as already mentioned in this thread so changed that, but that felt dry underneath and it hasn't cleared up the 'moist' underbelly. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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14th Jul 2021 9:16pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2324 
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Never done the gearbox but when I did the transfer box it said it’s easier to remove the gearbox and transfer box as a single unit. But reading the above it doesn’t sound as though that’s possible! > 110 XS Double Cab
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15th Jul 2021 9:10am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17725
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You can remove them as a single lump, but you have to raise the vehicle because if it is on the ground you can't fit the single lump out from under the main chassis rails. If you raised the back end slightly (enough to extend the springs but not lift the wheels) you could probably slide it back far enough to get to the clutch provided that you had the gear/transfer boxes on a very slim jack, but you wouldn't have much room and if the transmission falls on you you will have a real problem.
In reality separating the transfer box from the gearbox is very straightforward and the only extra cost is the oil to refill it. It gives you the chance to replace the oil seal on the transfer box input shaft if necessary, and on a TDCi it is more or less essential since frankly you'd be bonkers not to inspect the infamous adaptor shaft coupling while you do the job. On the TD5 the process of refitting the flywheel and torqueing it down, whilst not difficult, will require some fairly long-handled tools and is easier if you have a bit of space to work, and it is generally easier to jiggle the gearbox on its own when aligning the spigot shaft than it is to jiggle the gear/transfer box assembly. If you take them off as individual boxes you will also find that the transfer box is light enough to lift off the jack, put on a creeper board or similar, and slide out from under the vehicle easily, leaving plenty of space for the gearbox to stay under on the jack without getting in the way. If you do do the job yourself, please remember though that the transfer box and the gearbox are both individually heavy enough to cause a life-changing injury if you drop them on yourself, so do be careful. The probability of dropping them is small if you are careful, but the consequences could be sever, so the risk should not be ignored. Over the years I have often had people say "I'd love to do that job myself, but I don't have the confidence" and I completely understand this view. My reply would be that unless and until you undertake a job like this, you will never get the confidence - within sensible limits you need to push the envelope. A clutch job is a big job but not a terribly difficult job, and it is a good confidence-builder. |
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15th Jul 2021 9:42am |
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| freddie206 Member Since: 18 Oct 2015 Location: Skipton Posts: 90
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Despite the genuinely fantastic comments and advice the garage are cracking on with the job as we speak. A combination of it already being at the garage, having to trailer it away if I wanted to do it myself and being away with work meant it was easier to let them do it. Fingers crossed there aren’t any nasty surprises this afternoon.
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15th Jul 2021 1:54pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434  
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Agree with this 100%. Monday I watched my mechanic change my output shaft in 2.5 hours, all with tools I have available. I should have just gone for it instead of leaving this one. Oh well, next time... Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭 |
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15th Jul 2021 2:56pm |
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