 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > More VCV Questions |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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I think that all of those codes are as a result of your flat battery. There are no codes associated with the VCV. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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20th Jun 2021 8:31am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69  
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Just taking it off charge. The battle recommences after lunch! Can anyone confirm that the steel gasket and outer oring are required? There appears to be a space for the oring so I am assuming they aren't both needed.
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20th Jun 2021 8:36am |
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| skidrov Member Since: 06 Oct 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 55  
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You may find the steel gasket is there BUT is so tightly adhering to the pump that it's very difficult to see. From memory, either a fingernail or careful application of a fine blade are needed to find it.
I reassembled with both the steel gasket and the rubber ring. |
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20th Jun 2021 11:08am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Thanks Skidrov, I'll check again later. Still no sign of the old oring though..
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20th Jun 2021 12:02pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595 
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I've just replaced my CVC and thought exactly the same thing, there's no gasket. But I got a small mirror so I could see the mating surface and it was there, just pressed in good and firm. Also the bots supplied with my kit were too long so it didn't nip up back into place so I reused the old ones. The same happened on start-up, ran for a few seconds then stalled and took a while to actually get going and sounded awful for a bit. But a quick road test and it's all settled down. Good luck.
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20th Jun 2021 12:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Yes, I had to sue the original bolts too with mine.
I cannot remember gaskets I think the old one didn’t have one but the new one did and I used it. There was an ‘o’ ring present on the old one and the new one. If it wasn’t present you really should have checked for it’s presence in the aperture. A small mirror or phone camera is ideal for that. The tightening specs are in the WSM for the two bolts. When I did mine I disconnected the battery first, and the VCV flags no DTC’s. Started up first time, let it idle for a good while a tiny bit rough at first and then improved and levelled out. Then left it until I went to go out next and all was good, if I remember right I put a tiny bit of rubber safe lube grease on the ‘o’ ring prior to installation. It’s best to disconnect the electrical plug after removing it as it’s easier that way. You can connect it again though with VCV once it’s fitted in. Once disassembled the old one had age related scoring on mine as many had also had on theirs. This seems to affect the performance of it, but is bound to occur with age. Water in fuel is a killer of it too. Mines been running better than ever since fitting it, so was worth doing. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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20th Jun 2021 2:55pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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I have checked with the phone camera, no evidence of a gasket. I have gone at it with my fingernail and I am sure there is none. If there was an oring, I don't know where it got to? It is unlikely that it got into the pump? The bore appears clean. I reinstalled the new one with gasket and oring. I installed the battery. Bled some fuel through the top with an oil sucker. Haven't gotten all the air out but the connection isn't 100%.enough to prime the pump I would have thought. It is spinning over like a champ now for 10 seconds at a time. No smoke from the exhaust. I don't feel the injectors are opening at all. Next step is to recode the spare key incase it is in some way immobilised. After that I will check sensor readings to see if something is gone high etc. I will buy a bleeding tool tomorrow at an auto factor's and see if I can get a better bleed on the system.
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20th Jun 2021 3:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344 
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When you change the VCV on a 2.4 you inevitably introduce air in the the gallery between the LP and HP stages of the pump, so it is more likely than not that there will be a few minutes of rough running on the initial start-up as the LP stage fills the HP stage with fuel, and the latter pressurises the common rail. Once this is done, it should run ok. There should be no need whatsoever to bleed the line from the filter to the pump, you aren't letting air into this bit.
For those who are unaware of the purpose of the VCV (other than as a device to introduce faults without DTCs), it regulates the flow from the LP stage of the pump to the HP stage, and by so doing provides the means for the ECM to alter the fuel pressure in the common rail. In most cases when they start to malfunction, the engine will still run but the fuel rail pressure won't respond properly to changes in demand made by the ECM. This tends to cause rough running, lumpy tickover, misfire on sudden acceleration, etc. It actually mimics extremely well all the running faults we used to get with carburettors and points-based ignition systems! |
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20th Jun 2021 5:29pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Well okay, I have cranked the truck with Nanocom on and fuel pressure does not pass. 25mpa or 36psi.....looks like I have drained the fuel rail now. If the pump is primed will it bleed without the injectors opening I wonder? I am going to buy a bleed kit on the way home from work tomorrow, on my motorbike!
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20th Jun 2021 8:32pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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That's just bad luck. Fingers crossed the priming tool does the trick.
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20th Jun 2021 8:55pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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Well, after a monumental amount of bleeding to no avail the truck turned over and idled nicely after one squirt of easy start......... A result I suppose. I have been driving it for the last hour with several starts/restarts and it is back to normal. Still some black smoke under load in 6th. I have an immobiliser query but I will start a new thread. Thanks for your help guys. Really appreciate it.
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25th Jun 2021 5:52pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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Just read this again, thanks all, planning to change my VCV next week... fingers crossed.
Glad yours is fixed Moffett  Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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28th Jun 2021 10:07am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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The vcv had cured the limp home issue, but not the black smoke. I could change the vcv now in under ten minutes, but I would be weary of air locking the system again! If she is a bit lump on start up, just leave it run for a while!
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30th Jun 2021 8:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Check your MAF and MAP sensors if it’s putting out black smoke.
That signals running rich, aka more diesel burnt than required. Beyond those things get a bit more complicated such as injectors and things like that. Which is beyond my scope of knowledge really. But yes, when the VCV is changed and first starts run it to bring pressure up wel. Don’t start it and shut it straight down. When I changed mine I changed it just before I was about to go out. Started fine, let it idle a good ten minutes (obviously accompanied) maybe a little rough just at first for a minute or two. Still kept her running, then went out and she ran fine better then ever in fact. Then back and job done. That endured fresh diesel was pulled though and everything was pressured up to standard specs. Mines been great since, no programming needed at all. In fact I can’t believe the amount of power on tap, especially in high gears just pulls and pulls. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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30th Jun 2021 11:55pm |
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