 | Home > Technical > Drain coolant to remove an R380 ?? |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841  
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Hi folks,
Gearbox newbie going in to action today... I plan to remove the transfer box and then main box separately. Mainly as I am doing this, by myself, on the floor, and with a trolley jack/transmission adapter plate. I've read up a lot, and don't anticipate too many issues. (Famous last words) They were apart only a year ago anyway. When I get to the main box, the WSM says to drain the coolant - but then doesn't go on to say remove the radiator. I get the bit about viscous fan removal, in case the engine tips forward and digs onto the radiator. I plan to suport the engine anyway, and to put some plywood across the inside of the radiator as a backup. So, why does the coolant need to be drained? Am I missing something? It's not a big deal to do it.... just wondering if it's really needed? Ta. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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12th Jun 2021 9:22am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486 
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Definitely no need to drain coolant why are you removing the box?
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12th Jun 2021 9:49am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486
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Also the engine sits level on its mounts in a 300 so no danger of tipping
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12th Jun 2021 9:51am |
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| Dave T Member Since: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Glasgow Posts: 490 
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I have just changed my transfer box and gearbox, I did end up taking the fan off so I could rotate the engine slightly to get the gearbox to line up, did not drain the coolant though. I took all mine off as a one, then realised they wouldn’t come out under the chassis together. I put them back separately, but did have an engine hoist and jack. I also found the having some long threaded bar help enormously to get it near enough aligned before pushing together 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi |
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12th Jun 2021 2:47pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Thanks guys,
In the end, at the final prep stage, and because I'm a 'newbie' to gearboxes, I did siphon off enough coolant to disconnect the top hose and remove the fan and cowl. Just one hose to reconnect afterwards. But - transfer box is out; gearbox tomorrow - now that most of the work is done. Long day though. I think I have done too much of a strip down inside of the centre panel and transmission tunnel, but that stuff is old hat to me, so as a gearbox first-timer I thought I'd make sure I could see what I was doing. Most of the time was spent fighting with the exhaust. If it was a standard one, I'd have taken a grinder to it, but it's stainless. I wonder why they suggest the fan off if the 300tdi sits level?? It'll be getting trailered about 40 miles to a garage with a 4 post ramp for the refit, so I'll want to be sure that the engine is well braced. Why am I doing this? The main reason is the gearbox. It's a rcent rebuilt one, with a higher ratio 'V8' 5th gear fitted. I thought my engine tweaks would be able to run this - and I can on good, flat roads. But in the Highlands..... we have our fair share of windy roads and gradients, and it's just too tall. Covid means I haven't towed my boat for a while either, but if I did I don't think I'd be able to use 5th. So it's going back to get a stock ratio 5th put back in, and I'm going to use a roamerdrive for my 'cruising' trips. While the box is out, I'm going to send the transfer box for a refurb too. It's the 1994 original, with 240k on it. I know the LT230s can do huge mileage, but it just makes sense to me to give it some TLC at this stage. Bruised and tired, but happy to have got the transfer box out without damaging myself or anything else. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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12th Jun 2021 8:45pm |
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| Dave T Member Since: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Glasgow Posts: 490
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If you haven’t taken the seat box out, you’ll probably need to take the transfer box lever off the top of the gearbox to allow it to move back enough 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi |
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13th Jun 2021 5:29am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
The only think i fond then refitting R380 gear box to TD5 engine metal coolant pipe at the back engine can drip down and stop bell housing sliding home on to the engine
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13th Jun 2021 6:11am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Thanks again guys,
Building up my caffeine levels just now before heading out. I was planning to remove the levers anyway as I'm lowering it down on a trolley jack and adapter plate, and taking them off means the assembly won't be so tall, and I won't have to jack the car up so far to pull it all out. Seatbox is still in, so that's a helpful comment about rearwards clearance. The jack and plate means I'm adding ca. 8" to the overall height of the lowered assembly. Less than ideal, but it's what I have. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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13th Jun 2021 8:34am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Hey guys,
I'll add this here rather than starting another one. Got the box out Ok - thanks for your help. Wasn't the easiest job, though I did find it easier than the transfer. If I do this again, I'll go for the engine crane through the door method. The trolley jack adapter just added too much height to the whole thing and the car had to be jacked up a long way on one side to get it all out from underneath. Anyway, boxes are coming back north any day now and the car is about to be trailer to the garage where the refit will happen. The clutch/flywheel is still in place. Is this likely to fall out on the way? Do I need to secure it? Would it damage anything for it to sit there? It's only a 40/50 mile run, but up here that can mean some lumpy roads. Thanks Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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30th Jun 2021 8:17am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387 
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The clutch and flywheel won't fall out (well, if they do you have extraordinary and severe problems in the form of a snapped crankshaft), however you do need to bear in mind that the engine wil be supported only on its two mounts and will be able to rock backwards and forwards. This can easily damage the things immediately in front of and behind the engine, such as the radiator, pipework, etc (I am not sure which way it tends to drop, forward or rear, nor what fittings and buts are there and how close they are on a TD5 so can't provide specific advice).
I would suggest however that you ensure that the engine is secured properly against movement in either direction before trailering the vehicle. |
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30th Jun 2021 8:43am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Perfect Blackwolf, thanks for such a quick reply.
Glad to know the flywheel won't fall out! I'll assume that the crankshaft is OK, given that the engine was rebuilt only 18 months ago or thereabouts. I was aware of the engine tipping risk. I tied it up at the front when removing the gearbox (having already removed the viscous fan and radiator top hose.) I've since refitted the gearbox crossmember and strapped a piece of wood between it and the front axle, then I've strapped the engine to that piece of wood - front and rear. Hopefully that should minimise movement when being trailered, but allowing for things working loose under movement I'd planned to get an extra couple of ratchet straps on the way home today just to double up. Thanks again. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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30th Jun 2021 10:10am |
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