 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma starting problems |
 
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| robharvey Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Durban Posts: 86   
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Check the engine control module main relay (part # LYWB500060 here in South Africa). Your situation 2 is similar to a problem I experienced about a year ago when mine would start, but later cut out with the temp gauge going to red. Over time it got worse to the point where I was able to start the vehicle and only run it for about 30 seconds before it cut out. Mine was water damaged (long story).
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24th Aug 2011 11:02am |
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| Allan Member Since: 09 Sep 2009 Location: Perth Posts: 166  
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Mine has done this a couple of times, both times in BP service station for courts, I believe I'm not the only person this has happend to at BP stations. I've had the dealer check the system twice now but no fault found. A friend had to push his onto the street before the vehicle would start. All very odd. Alien's maybe
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I hope someone knows what it is, I thought we were going to be stranded 1500km from home when it last happened. Allan |
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25th Aug 2011 8:17am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17364  
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That sounds like the symptoms of interference from a TETRA (police) radio network, which is a classic for preventing car remote locking systems from working (the frequencies for TETRA are very close to those for UK car remotes). I had a spell of this with my Disco2 when I couldn't unlock it on my drive, but could on the road. The problems stopped abruptly when I contacted the operator of Dorset Police's radio network, although they denied all possibility it could be them. If there is a radio relay on the forecourt (and there often is now in the tall sign mast) it could be connected. Still, I would expect that to stop remote unlocking rather than to prevent starting. Interesting, though! |
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25th Aug 2011 10:02am |
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| Allan Member Since: 09 Sep 2009 Location: Perth Posts: 166
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I've given thought to haveing the Land rover system dieled out of my vehicle. I almost did this on my trip north but was woried about insurance. Perhaps an after market system may be the way to go. I can think of lots of places here I don't want to be stuck due to a faulty alarm system.
Allan |
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25th Aug 2011 2:40pm |
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| cradgebank Member Since: 30 Dec 2008 Location: Nottingham Posts: 308  
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I am currently having an intermitent starting problem, happens anytime, cold engine, hot engine.
Car cranks and fires then stops, turn the key again and appears to have a flat battery, wait 45 seconds and then Car fires up fine. Went into dealer on Tuesday, tried it 20 times, never failed, drove home, failed at first attempt 
Any ideas ?. Richard Either a 90, 110 or 130. Discovery 5 |
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27th Aug 2011 1:18am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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I was talking to a td5 owner he had exactly the same problem, he ended up fitting a new battery and has been fine ever since.
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27th Aug 2011 6:36am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414  
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OE battery terminals are hard to tighten. I ended up adding a short piece of copper wire between the terminals. No more problems. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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27th Aug 2011 9:53am |
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| Allan Member Since: 09 Sep 2009 Location: Perth Posts: 166
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It's not the battery, its strange, it can be good for months then
 happens again. It's very odd.
Allan |
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27th Aug 2011 11:50am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17364
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Allan,
When mine is misbehaving it either starts normally then dies a second or so later, or cranks with a noise that sounds like the starter is engaging and disengaging (horrible destructive sound) after which is may or may not die, or simply fails to do anything in which case only the alternator warning light is illuminated. When it does this, I find the best remedy is to remove the key from the lock and hold it well away from the column, press the lock button, then sit very still until the dash leds show that the full alarm/immobiliser has activated. Then press the unlock, and start again. Usually - at least so far - doing a full set/unset sequence has cleared the fault. I believe that my Puma has beein doing this intermittenly from new, although I am not the first owner, and when last checked by a dealer there was NFF. The dealer did suggest that the starter may be faulty but I think this was based more on my description of the crunching noise than any diagnostics. At the moment my pet theory is that there is an intermittent failure of the passive immobiliser to detect a valid keyfob within range. I believe that if this happens when the engine is running, it will stop. If it happens when the engine is cranking, it will stop cranking (and if it is momentary with might then try to crank again). If the condition is persisted, the immobiliser will then inhibit engine start althogether. As far as I can see, it could account for all the symptoms. When I get the time I will play about some more to see if I can prove or disprove my theory. Since the passive immobiliser is essentially the same on a Td5 and Puma, logic would suggest that both engines should be susceptible. |
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30th Aug 2011 11:00am |
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| lrmaniac Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lisboa Posts: 762  
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I had a failure on start up too ... When turning the key the engine gave a click, then all light went out and it did not start ... Sometimes it started after a while, but when trying all the dash lights were out, like I had no battery in the car ... then after a few tries it started OK ...
The battery cable (earth - black one) was replaced (dealer's diagnostic) two months ago under warranty, and never hapened again... Regards Joao '10 Land Rover Defender 110 CC '08 BMW F800GS '64 SIIA Forward Control '69 SIIA 109 ZA CKD _____________________________________________ You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you. |
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30th Aug 2011 3:03pm |
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| Allan Member Since: 09 Sep 2009 Location: Perth Posts: 166
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Almost the same as mine. Same, key out lock, unlock, try again and all good for weeks. I got back from the Kimberley trip in June , this was the last time it failed, since then the vehicle has been serviced and the fault reported. The dealer found no fault. It has not re-occured as yet. I also own a Td5 90 with the same type system and have had no problems with the alarm. No problems with anything else either, but thats an other story. Do you think an after market alarm/ immoboliser that bypasses the L.R. system is the way to go. By the way when yours does start cold on partial throttle does the engine run rough, almost like its missing. Allan |
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31st Aug 2011 2:22pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
If you think it is the passive immobilizer this is easy to check by disabling it in the 10AS module. By disabling the passive immobilizer the defender will still be fully immobilized by relocking with the fob or key so wont affect security other than when driving which means you would still need the key/fob to mobilize the vehicle in the first place. Also as TETRA is intertwined with the GSM transmitter network wouldn't any cell transmitter replicate this as the problem and be easily checked by driving up to a cell tower and basically try to emulate your faults?
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11th Sep 2011 7:12pm |
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| cradgebank Member Since: 30 Dec 2008 Location: Nottingham Posts: 308
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I have traced my fault down to the Passive Immobiliser, seems to have a mind of its own.
What do I need to disable it in the 10AS module ?. Richard Either a 90, 110 or 130. Discovery 5 |
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12th Sep 2011 12:31am |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
Diagnostic gear. A nanocom evolution, MSV2 or Hawkeye will allow easy access.
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12th Sep 2011 10:10am |
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