 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > How best to drill through carpet |
 
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| swt Member Since: 24 Aug 2018 Location: Cumbria Posts: 163   
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I always drill through the carpet to align the holes, but then generally lift it to add some paint to the cut edges. Otherwise you're increasing the risk of corrosion between fastener and body metal.
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6th Jun 2021 7:50pm |
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| swt Member Since: 24 Aug 2018 Location: Cumbria Posts: 163
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In my 2008 110 the carpet there is stuck down underneath the strip across the rear footwell. Lift the latter and you can peel up as much as necessary, using fresh adhesive if needed (often not the first time).
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6th Jun 2021 7:55pm |
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| swt Member Since: 24 Aug 2018 Location: Cumbria Posts: 163
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I've never fixed anything there: I have a vague recollection that the other side of the panel/void isn't very accessible. But I defer to someone more knowledgeable on that.
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6th Jun 2021 7:58pm |
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| boxoftricks Member Since: 06 Feb 2019 Location: Home Counties Posts: 747 
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Rivnuts will need the carpet lifted. I'd just use some short ss self-tappers.
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7th Jun 2021 7:44am |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 258  
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Thanks for your replies. I'm going to need to rivnut due to the weight of the ardcase and ardsafe (I suspect rivnuts will offer a little more strength than self tappers, but I could well be wrong). Next is to work how best to lift the carpet and then put it back down. I had soundproofing professionally done and then the carpet put back on top, would anyone know if that would typically be done with spray glue or double sided tape?
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7th Jun 2021 9:45am |
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| L90Andy Member Since: 29 May 2014 Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon Posts: 719 
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Not sure how useful this tip will be in this case, but having just finished building a camper van, the best way I found to put holes in carpet was to heat up an appropriate sized drill bit (blunt end) with a blowtorch, then dab it onto the carpet. It burns a perfectly circular hole and seals the edges at the same time
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My 1984 Ninety: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56071.html - SOLD! My 2015 Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39625.html - SOLD! |
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7th Jun 2021 9:53am |
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| rockster57 Member Since: 15 Nov 2014 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 937 
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To be honest I feel rivnuts aren’t suitable for this purpose. You’re fastening down a pretty serious lump of metal in the cabin. In the event of even a low speed collision that will rip out no problem and fly about wherever. HUGE potential for a KSI. A 30mph pen will pierce your eyeball. A 30mph lump of metal like the ardcase will pierce your skull and come out the other side. I recommend beefing your fastening method a bit more with some plating on the underside. Forget rivnuts, just drill holes for 8.8 bolts or stronger and fasten all the way through.
Last edited by rockster57 on 7th Jun 2021 11:47am. Edited 3 times in total |
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7th Jun 2021 11:41am |
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| rockster57 Member Since: 15 Nov 2014 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 937
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Awesome idea for carpet holes. Nice one Andy. I’ll be using this idea myself. Thank you. |
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7th Jun 2021 11:42am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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It's tricky behind each of the front seats as there's a narrow gap and then the back face of the battery box and fuse box enclosure. In the middle though, it's clear and is accessible from above if the cubby box and gearbox access panel are removed. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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7th Jun 2021 11:53am |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 258
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Thanks rockster, that's a really good point. I hadn't realised that rivnuts were so 'flimsy'. |
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7th Jun 2021 11:57am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17467 
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A Rivnut or other similar threaded insert fastener (Rivnut being a brand name) if correctly fitted is no more likely to pull through than a standard sized plain nut, however I would suggest that if you are concerned about the thing breaking loose that you either use large washers (mudguard washers or penny washers) behind the panel, or better still fit a backing plate behind the panel.
When driving I keep my pedal lock in the second-row footwell with a chain round one of the brackets for the second-row seat base so it can't go anywhere. In the unlikely event that I had a passenger in the second row, the lock would be in the rear buck. |
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7th Jun 2021 1:42pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 
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AS above.
Don't get me wrong, safety is very much a valid and important consideration with these types of questions, but I'd have thought decent Rivnuts would be fine for this application. I know the ally ones can be a bit light duty, but as above, a correctly fitted rivnut is not much different to a normal nut (of the same material). Of course, we've all seen some scary installations over the years... large bass boxes held in with a couple of self tapping screws were always my bugbear.. |
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7th Jun 2021 1:51pm |
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| rockster57 Member Since: 15 Nov 2014 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 937
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“ I know the ally ones can be a bit light duty, but as above, a correctly fitted rivnut is not much different to a normal nut (of the same material). ”
Maybe so but I wouldn’t consider securing the case to an aluminium floor without anything to spread the load. Bolting through provides this additional option but a rivnut, nutsert etc doesn’t. In the current application its probably the substrate that will fail before the fastener. Granted, I’m no engineer but I’ve seen more than enough results of inadequately secured objects in road traffic collisions. Hence my cautionary note for the OP. |
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7th Jun 2021 8:06pm |
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| Fellrunner Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Wandering Posts: 258
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I’m now completely reconsidering storage location for the ardsafe. I can’t use the normal location of the front of the driver’s seat box due to a speaker being mounted there. I think perhaps that storing in a new storage drawer in the rear is likely the best solution so I’m researching drawer options since removing the rear folding seats; ideally ones that use the existing lashing points/holes so that I don’t need drill new holes. Interesting, the frontrunner option, with a carrying capacity of 150kg, appears to be secured down with rivnuts per the fitting instructions. I like the look of the TransK9 drawer and have sent them an email re how it secures to the rear load area.
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7th Jun 2021 8:30pm |
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