 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Removing rear bench seats...plugging the holes |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453  
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Sealed Aluminium pop rivets if they are relatively small, if not then rubber blanking plugs is usually the solution.
Or you could use dome head hex cap bolts, but if SS beware they donโt seize so corrosion block would be a must. As I said depends on how large they are, situation, what is the other side of anything etc etc. No Guts, No Glory. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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22nd May 2021 9:52pm |
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| balmybaldwin Member Since: 17 Apr 2021 Location: Surrey Posts: 192 
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Think they are about 10mm judging by the bolt heads. They are directly into the wheel arches so important to properly seal!
Will have a google and see what I can find. Thanks for heads up on SS. Will bear in mind. |
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22nd May 2021 10:51pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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I think how you address this will be dependant on what you want to achieve. Are you trying to make your floor look smooth and nice as though there are no holes in it, or do you want to blank the holes just to stop mud/water/noise?
If it's the first then I think you need to get some discs of just slightly smaller diameter and thickness and then stick them into the hole using a backing plate and use an adhesive sealant to put them on - though I am not sure how to clamp it whilst it cures. Alternatively you could do the same thing but without the little filing discs if you are not worried about the asthetics. The easiest way would be to just bolt in a fixing, but that will stick above the surface of the plate and if in the load space hinder sliding things in or out. But I suppose this won't matter if using a load liner. I suppose a slightly off piste way of doing this would be to fit a flush fitting nursert, fit a grub screw to just below the surface, fill it and sand it - a bit unconventional but it may work for you. I would seal the grub screw in if you do it this way as you don't want water getting in the threads and rusting. Good luck. Mick |
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23rd May 2021 2:46am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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When I did the same in my old 90, I fixed some offcuts of aluminium to the underside with Sikaflex, which means that there was nothing projecting above the surface inside. It was then eventually soundproofed and carpeted so the remaining hole was hidden.
 Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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23rd May 2021 8:04am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845 
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Just an add on to the comments above. It's not a good idea to use bathroom sealant anywhere on the the car.
As it cures it releases acetic acid. I don't imagine it's the worst acid out there, but better by far to use a PU sealant/adhesive. I think I read elsewhere, and on here that there were other reasons bathroom sealant wasn't a good plan - but I can't remember now! PU sealants - tiger seal, upol etc will more commonly be available in black, but you can find white..... if that's what you want. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd May 2021 9:11am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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The silicones in silicone based sealants make it basically impossible to paint the area afterwards, so it might well have been that!
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23rd May 2021 9:34am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5729 
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I used large head rivets, penny washer underneath and a blob of PU sealer You will be surprised how many holes there are once you get the seats out.
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23rd May 2021 9:48am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 
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An epoxy resin works well for patching. I patched various holes on my first Series 1 80" in 1978 which are as good today as they were when patched.
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23rd May 2021 11:03am |
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| Beero Member Since: 05 Jan 2021 Location: Southampton Posts: 21 
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if you just want to seal against water but leave the holes to maybe refit the seats then get some door trim clips. The "fir tree" type are available in many sizes and are almost flush and can be sealed with some DumDum. Plenty available on ebay.
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23rd May 2021 9:41pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453
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Epoxy is pretty damn good to which Blackwolf mentioned. Iโve never used it for that kind of job but when I have itโs always been a success when I have used it on other projects. No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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23rd May 2021 11:33pm |
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| balmybaldwin Member Since: 17 Apr 2021 Location: Surrey Posts: 192
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Thanks All. Weather is stopping me doing much at teh moment, but I've got some rubber grommets arriving that I'll use for now with some dumdum, and think about something a bit more permanent once I've fitted out the inside (which I might be able to re-use the bolt holes)
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24th May 2021 5:19pm |
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