 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Puma tow bar bolts spinning |
 
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153   
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I took the Factory fitted Dixon bate Kit off my 2009 utility a few weeks ago to fit the Safariequip 2” receiver and now realise how fortunate I was that the old one came off with minimal resistance!!
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13th May 2021 6:25am |
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| boxoftricks Member Since: 06 Feb 2019 Location: Home Counties Posts: 747 
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Based on this definitely worth removing these and cleaning/greasing every couple of year when I treat the underside and clean up the cross member.
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13th May 2021 7:45am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I did exactly the same about 18 months ago and it seems that I was lucky too. I did have to sacrifice my favourite socket ratchet in the process, though  Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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13th May 2021 8:11am |
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| Bundy Member Since: 21 Sep 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 98
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I reckon the best thing anyone can do is make sure the 4 smaller bolt holes have bolts in. That way water and crud will find it hard to get in there. Make sure you spray a load of wax or something in there first though
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13th May 2021 8:23am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2010
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Bundy, have you thought of cutting a rectangle piece of 18mm thick steel to fit snuggly into the crossmember recess. Drilling and tapping the threads in the correct places and then welding it in place ? That way even if the welds go the plate would jam and not rotate when trying to remove a stuck bolt , and you could choose the right thickness of plate to ensure the bolts don’t protrude out of it and therefore corrode and jam. I’m really surprised landrover did not build the crossmember that way in the first place. But then again perhaps I’m not as that would have been thoughtful engineering!
As per your suggestion I’m removing bolts, greasing up, injecting cavity wax and fitting some plastic bungs into the two threaded holes not occupying towbar bolts. Also looking to cut bolt ends so they are then flush with the nuts when tight, leaving no thread exposed to corrosion. Last edited by Ianh on 13th May 2021 3:54pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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13th May 2021 11:37am |
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| Bundy Member Since: 21 Sep 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 98
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I like that idea Ian...
Not sure I’d get much weld depth on something that thick onto what is remarkably thin metal on the crossmember, but I suppose it ain’t going anywhere once in there! Drilling and tapping those large holes would be a complete nightmare to do in something that thick though...plus the cost of a tap that big. I’ve manage to sneak the order in for the tow bar, so may get to play at the weekend. I’ll let you all know the outcome |
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13th May 2021 1:14pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2229 
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You need to be careful of the strength of the threads if you just tap them into a piece of mild steel plate.
For context: A piece of 20mm thick plate would probably be either S275 or S355 with a yield strength of 275 or 355MPa accordingly. An M16 nut is 14mm thick and even a generic grade 8 nut will have a yield strength of 640MPa. You don't want to take that chance with towbars especially! I would get a bit of plate cut and drilled to suit and weld on some grade 10 nuts to it. No point trying to use nyloc nuts and weld them. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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13th May 2021 1:39pm |
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| Bundy Member Since: 21 Sep 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 98
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Hi Steve, the plate and non-nylocks is the route I’m aiming for and your thoughts on strength would certainly put me off the tapped plate option.
Cheers Al |
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13th May 2021 2:02pm |
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| Bundy Member Since: 21 Sep 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 98
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Just a little update to complete this saga...
I had some spare angle lying about and made this...  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Welded it into the crossmember and welded it all back up. With a skin of filler to make it neater and some paint it looks much better... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Tow bar arrived from 4x4 Overlander missing a few bits, but as per usual Brendan sorted very quickly...many thanks Brendan! I opted to spray the mating surfaces of the tow bar with some rubberised anti-rust under seal paint and then bolt it all up while wet. This allowed most of it to squish out the edges and provide a nice seal and hopefully prevent water ingress. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Really pleased with the look and the clearance I now have and glad I got the handy billet recovery attachment 
I moved my electrics while at it too, which has neatened it all up. I also sprayed copious amounts of cavity wax in through the the holes before fitting the tow bar, so all being well it should last a while now! Just need to finish renovating the original tow ball and it’s hopefully job done. Cheers Al |
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19th May 2021 10:41am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254685240395
I fitted a couple of these 2” receiver hitch bungs to mine to keep the  out. |
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22nd May 2021 3:44pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17390 
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Neat job, good outcome, and probably stronger than when new.
The receiver hitch is a really useful and versatile option on the Defender, I've never regretted fitting mine. I also have one on the front, which is handy. |
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22nd May 2021 3:56pm |
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| Bundy Member Since: 21 Sep 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 98
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Nice one. Think I’ll be getting some of them, thanks |
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22nd May 2021 5:56pm |
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| Bundy Member Since: 21 Sep 2020 Location: Cheshire Posts: 98
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Thanks Blackwolf. Might be tempted with the front bumper that contains one at some point. Can then get a winch tray with the 2” so you can use it front or back and leave it off for day to day |
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22nd May 2021 5:58pm |
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