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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3483 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I just installed one of these:
https://www.paddockspares.com/tvc100010gkn...r-gkn.html It came in a GKN box and was a perfect fit. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6136 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Haha GKN & Hardy together.
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Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2708 ![]() ![]() |
The key thing to ensure is that they have the larger journal bearings and metal seal retainers, these ones are the same as original LR spec.
The cheaper (still OEM) ones fit the car but are far less durable. And obviously the real cheapo aftermarket ones are not even worth considering. |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2149 ![]() ![]() |
It’s interesting to note that Hardy spicer have been part of the GKN group since 1966, so by now I wonder if it’s just different packaging or are they actually different specs, the GKN being the higher spec for a higher price.
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diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6136 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I ordered the Hardy one, so I'll see what it looks like when it arrives.
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Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4246 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
This is is an important point. How do you know when ordering what’s going to turn up? If you order GKN from most LR parts people, the distributor is Britpart and they deliberately cover the GKN part no. so you can’t cross reference. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20637 ![]() ![]() |
I went for GKN on mine, both times came in GKN boxes, one pair had a different cir-clip style that the other but bearing cups, seals and bearings were all the same. Never had a problem since, been really happy.
I used Tipexx to reference mark the flanges so that everything went back exactly as it should and I put a zip tie on the end near the T box on each prop and that flange so it’s easy to remember which way around. I did the rear first, and ran in 2wd on the front for a few days with the rear prop removed. Then done the same with the front. With the diff locked you can do this fine, obviously of careful and take it easy driving about. With the rear prop off you must ensure the handbrake drum is secured with the nuts. On mine I needed a few washers as well before the nut. On mine I had two grease nipples missing, one front and one rear on each prop... No wonder the rear most failed on me after coming home from going through a Ford. The bearing cups filled up with water due to the missing nipple. Something not unusual I believe for the, to disappear.. I wouldn’t pull out the slider either, you can check for play on that without pulling it out. I left that well alone. It certainly was a tougher job than I expected, even getting the circlips out was a battle in its self. The installation is the easy part, it’s the removal which is the tougher part. ![]() ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3483 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Next time try tapping the bearing cups inwards... especially if there is wear, it would give the circlips freedom to be compressed and pulled out. I like to run a small wire brush wheel to clean up the circlip grooves. The circlips normally have an 'orientation'. Since they are punched parts, they would have a rounded edge and a sharp edge. Place the sharp edge facing away from the bearing cup, so that it 'bites' in the groove. While taking the cross out, it is almost certain that an edge of the jokes are damaged by the cross. I like to clean up any edge that is deformed when pushing the cross so that the new cup/seal is a perfect fit. As a rule of thumb, the sliding joint on the prop shaft is nearer to the the tcase if you forget to mark it. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20637 ![]() ![]() |
Yes, that’s right and was what I did do, it was still much the same though. It was the paint I think that was causing the issue and of course they had been in situ for a long time.
Once I had carefully tapped around the circlips to free them of the paint, from the groove that did the trick. And yes, you’re right regarding the circlips. One side has a sharp edge the other side is bevelled. Another issue I had was I had a small pair of circlip pliers, they were not man enough for the job. So in the end I had to get a more HD type (US Pro) and those did the trick. If you’ve got every tool that you’ll need, the right size vice and sockets etc it’s not too bad of a job. In my case I needed a few bits and pieces as I went. ![]() ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 ![]() |
pays to check that greasing ports clear before fitting UJ , replaced UJ only to have it fail 6 mouths later du dry needle bearing
that the grease did not reach removed UJ to find that holes in UJ block so no greases reach bearing ![]() |
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Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2708 ![]() ![]() |
These are the good type (check it fits your vehicle), I always buy them from these folk as they are honest about what you are getting:
https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-...m-j-75x27/ They also do the standard type, note the smaller journals and lack of seal caps: https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-...5x27-16mm/ |
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Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
^^^^^^^
Worth bearing in mind that post 7A VIN numbers have a bigger bearing than those currently being discussed. Rgds. Chris |
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Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2286 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks James, good info ![]() Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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