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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554  |
Check fuel filters, make shore fuel lines are not block
Check float needle valve working ok mechanical fuel lift pump may have brass gores filter in side (ok elect fuel Pump ) mechanical fuel lift pump  if so you can get overall kits (ok elect fuel Pump)
also make shore lift pipe in the fuel tank not blocked or foot filter at the end of this pipe http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-carburetters Last edited by dorsetsmith on 18th Apr 2021 10:20am. Edited 2 times in total |
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18th Apr 2021 6:54am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450  
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What does the fuel pump do when you switch on the ignition? It should click rapidly a few times as it primes them stop, or at least only click once every few seconds once primed.
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18th Apr 2021 9:13am |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 899 
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It does indeed click. I haven’t been out to check today.
I’ve never left it long enough to see if it stops clicking, I feel like it might just keep clicking . . . Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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18th Apr 2021 9:39am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450
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If it continues to click fairly rapidly then either it is drawing air, or the diaphragm in the pump is leaking, or one of the non-return valves in the pump is stuck open, but whatever the reason it is not filling the float chamber with fuel.
The SU electric pumps work well when in good order but are fairly notorious for trouble and always have been. Quality pre-war cars, such as the Derby Bentleys, used double pumps to reduce the likelihood of complete failure, however Land-Rovers did not. Most commonly however they simply stop pumping due becoming gunged up or due to points failure. You might want to consider either replacing the pump or overhauling it, especially if the vehicle has not been used much recently. |
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18th Apr 2021 1:45pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 899
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OK. Gives me something to thoroughly investigate on Saturday!
I guess it’s either going to be an obstruction in the pick-up or lines and/or it’s the pump on its way out. I’m feeling like it’ll be the pump though. I think I’ll just replace the pump if that’s the culprit. It’s a bit scruffy and new ones aren’t too expensive. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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18th Apr 2021 8:11pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 899
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Fault finding done today.
Turned on the ignition - no ticking from the pump. Gave the fuel line a bit of a shake and the pump started ticking and wouldn’t stop until I gave the float a good tap. Seems like the pump and float are the issues. Sediment bowl was clear. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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24th Apr 2021 12:29pm |
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