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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
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Posts: 6103

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Disco drop arm converison
So the 110 is up on the MoT ramp as I speak, I was just under it with the mechanic having a gander around (far comfier that lying on my back on the drive!)

drop arm BJ is on its way out, so needs changing, so I figured might as well convert it to a decent D2 balljoint type.

Does anyone know a supplier of a "kit" or is it better just to buy the bits separately?

I guess it's just the drag link and drop arm itself. anything else needed?

Cheers all
Post #973577 6th Dec 2022 9:44am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3431

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
A hefty puller for the old drop arm. Perhaps a new lock washer. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #973578 6th Dec 2022 9:52am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Gwyn Lewis does a variety of kits for this, depending on how far you want to go:

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-categor...-defender/ Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #973579 6th Dec 2022 9:55am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6103

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Great thanks. Just about to order the GL kit.

As a side note, the 110 passed Thumbs Up
Post #973587 6th Dec 2022 10:47am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Dinnu wrote:
A hefty puller for the old drop arm. Perhaps a new lock washer.


All you need is a pitman arm puller like this https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-steering...oval-tool/, don't use a bearing puller they are not strong enough. The key thing with removing the drop arm is to pull as in-line with the splines as possible. The splined surface for the drop arm is long so if you pull even very slightly from an angle it will bind up. It is often that you can get away with not using the proper tool for the job, but in this case use the proper tool. Undo the lock nut but leave on the threads so if it does break with a bang it won't go far. Fit the puller, tighten it up (providing the in-line force) and give the side of the drop arm a good wack with LR tool No.1. This method has worked every time for me. I remember once using a little heat from a plumbers torch to assist.

But... I am going to ask the question... Why bother with the Discovery conversion? What is so wrong with the standard Defender drop arm ball joint?

All of the above can be avoided, assuming the drop arm is sitting tightly on the splineds, by just replacing the ball joint itself, in-situ, using this kit https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover-steeri...5tEALw_wcB plus the ball joint.

When it comes down to it Miffy is well on the way to a quarter of a million miles and is only on her second drop arm ball joint, but on her forth set of track rod ends. Seems to me the TREs wear twice as quickly as the drop arm ball joint Rolling Eyes

Could it be that fitting the Discovery drop arm might equate over time to more expense as the TREs wear quicker?
Post #973589 6th Dec 2022 10:59am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
diesel_jim wrote:
Great thanks. Just about to order the GL kit.

As a side note, the 110 passed Thumbs Up


Well done 110, Miffy Passed yesterday too Thumbs Up
Post #973590 6th Dec 2022 11:00am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6103

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
geobloke wrote:


But... I am going to ask the question... Why bother with the Discovery conversion? What is so wrong with the standard Defender drop arm ball joint?


Could it be that fitting the Discovery drop arm might equate over time to more expense as the TREs wear quicker?


Think I've changed the defender BJ a few times. maybe because I don't get genuine LR ones they might not last as long, but they are a PITA to change.
Post #973628 6th Dec 2022 2:47pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Think I've changed the defender BJ a few times. maybe because I don't get genuine LR ones they might not last as long, but they are a PITA to change.


Fair enough Thumbs Up Nothing more frustrating than PITA jobs you have done one too many times... Rolling Eyes
Post #973636 6th Dec 2022 3:40pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8088

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
GL kit is simplist way Jamie. I change all mine to tre when the drop arm ball joint first fails. On road going vehicles tha5s rarely on the off roaders it's ealy in their life. Tres are far easier to change in the field is my main reason for doing it. Gl does HD greasable joints too with poly boot covers. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #973643 6th Dec 2022 4:09pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8088

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Ref getting the old drop arm off. Loosen the nut slightly and drive it off the public highway for a bit, will soon work loose! Obviously if it falls off you will have no steering! Hence don't use the road! Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #973644 6th Dec 2022 4:13pm
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